[KCampbellNH]

It is amazing these things even ran at all when new. If you missed my earlier post look for "make Baldwin run or run better". So I got these two Baldwins running nice, but one had no traction and the wheels would spin even pulling a couple of cars. I had noticed the aluminum frame looked bent a bit, so I straightened it and when I tried putting the body back on it took some slight force to get the screw back in, and when I got it in, you could see the aluminum frame visible along the side of the body. So here is what it was, maybe you all know this already, but if you flipped the body over and looked inside the shell, the nub from where the plastic was injected into the mold was nearly 1/4" high! High, or low when right side up I suppose, enough to contact the E unit and cause the very flexible aluminum frame to deflect when the body was fastened. Had to be like that from brand new! Had to be!! The body is not deformed in any way. Grabbed a Dremel tool and ground it off flush. Body dropped on smoothly and screw lined up without any forcing. Locomotive pulls nicely now and works even better. This was the one with the two position E unit. And the other 355 Baldwin with the four position E unit had the same issue just not quite as serious. But now both work even better. If you didn't notice this already on your Baldwin, you should check it, maybe it is another reason why they almost all crack around the screw hole. By the way, I repaired the screw holes by using a Dremel and slightly grinding away on the body at the back side of the screw hole, cutting a small strip of sheet metal, drilling a hole for the screw and a few other tiny holes to give the epoxy (JBWeld ) places to bite on, and bonded it to the inside of the body.
These Baldwins run great now and there is no way they could have run well when new.

 

[flyernut]

It is amazing these things even ran at all when new. If you missed my earlier post look for "make Baldwin run or run better". So I got these two Baldwins running nice, but one had no traction and the wheels would spin even pulling a couple of cars. I had noticed the aluminum frame looked bent a bit, so I straightened it and when I tried putting the body back on it took some slight force to get the screw back in, and when I got it in, you could see the aluminum frame visible along the side of the body. So here is what it was, maybe you all know this already, but if you flipped the body over and looked inside the shell, the nub from where the plastic was injected into the mold was nearly 1/4" high! High, or low when right side up I suppose, enough to contact the E unit and cause the very flexible aluminum frame to deflect when the body was fastened. Had to be like that from brand new! Had to be!! The body is not deformed in any way. Grabbed a Dremel tool and ground it off flush. Body dropped on smoothly and screw lined up without any forcing. Locomotive pulls nicely now and works even better. This was the one with the two position E unit. And the other 355 Baldwin with the four position E unit had the same issue just not quite as serious. But now both work even better. If you didn't notice this already on your Baldwin, you should check it, maybe it is another reason why they almost all crack around the screw hole. By the way, I repaired the screw holes by using a Dremel and slightly grinding away on the body at the back side of the screw hole, cutting a small strip of sheet metal, drilling a hole for the screw and a few other tiny holes to give the epoxy (JBWeld ) places to bite on, and bonded it to the inside of the body.
These Baldwins run great now and there is no way they could have run well when new.

Believe me, they ran like a scalded dog when new. I could only run my 355 at about 1/3 throttle or else it would fly off the track in the corner. In fact I used to see how far it would go,lol!!

 

[AmFlyerFan]

I could never get my Baldwin 355 to run consistently. Whenever I put it away in storage running-I had to fiddle with it when taking it out again.
Last week I installed a Can-Motor & Dallee unit from Doug.
It's better then new (1957 #20305). My camera pictures are horrible. Here it is from the catalog:


It pulls up to 6 cars before the Pul-Mores slip. I cleaned them off well and are Very happy with the results.
I will look at your tips to see if I can make it better.
Homer T.

 

[flyernut]

I have both of those sets.

 

[AmFlyerFan]

The only thing I don't have from that set at X-mas 1957 is a picture, and the box that it came in. The transformer stills works great, I did replace the plug though.

 

[AFGP9]

KCampbellNH, I have stayed away from those 355 Balwins because all I have ever heard was that most of them never ran well. I never really investigated why. Your explanation does make since.
However, flyernut says his run very well. I know a seller who had 3 of them. When I go to the train show in Decatur, Il. next month I will see if that seller still has them. At the fall show he had them priced at $50 each and no takers. With your description of the structure issues that will give me something to go on. I almost bought 1 just for the challenge to see why they they were poor runners and try and fix it. Maybe if the seller still has them I'll be lucky enough to get one like flyernut has. Maybe I'll buy 'em all if he still has them!

Kenny