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Possibly the fastest drying is Super Glue. I used the generic
cheap gel version from Harbor Freight...to attach the figures
you mention, just a tiny dab will usually do the job. I also used
it to assemble buildings and other scenic parts.

For gluing track, ballast and the like, good ole Elmer's white
glue is a good answer. But again, the caution, like the hair goo slogan,
'a little dab'll do ya'.

Don
 

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Soooo I guess I'm on my way. Have 4 modules built,2 ft wide by 4 ft long. (Wife only knows about 2 of em) . I'm going with kato 80 flex track. My question is whats a fast drying glue. Putting a hobo in open boxcar door and fella on back of caboose and mighty tight place to hold them while glue dries. Again many thanks
RonnieC;

Super glue (also called CA, & ACC) dries in less than a minute. I suggest using that. If you want even faster, nearly instantaneous, bonding, you can use an accelerator with the super glue. Be careful with that stuff. The one thing that super glues bond faster and more permanently than anything else is human skin. Use tweezers or needle-nosed pliers to hold the hobo and conductor. You don't want to become too attached to your work! 馃槃
I didn't know that Kato made flex track. I thought they only made their "Unitrack" with the rigid plastic roadbed attached.
Two feet by four feet is a good size for modules/sections of a sectional railroad. I use that size too.

Good Luck & Have Fun!

Traction Fan 馃檪
 

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Personally, I'd say CA is overkill for that purpose. Look for something called Aleene's Tacky Glue. It's white glue with much less water innit, so it grabs instantly; no need to hold it while glue dries. You can also use old-fashioned rubber cement if you think you might want to move the figures at some point. Dab a dot on, let it dry for about 15 seconds, then insert figure.
 

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I have seen a post in the Anyrail forum which suggests that Atlas Code 80 Flextrack is rebranded to Kato for sale in Japan (only), but that's the only reference to it I can find.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Hopefully I can find receipt, good chance I screwed up saying kato. Happened before lol
 

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Hopefully I can find receipt, good chance I screwed up saying kato. Happened before lol
RonnieC;

You're not alone. There's plenty of that going around! My wife keeps a "dumb husband list" of my screw ups! 馃槃

Traction Fan 馃檪
 

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Hopefully I can find receipt, good chance I screwed up saying kato. Happened before lol
Look at the underside of the track and see if there are any markings.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Yes sir it's Kato flex. I've also found out after making some scratch buildings, that super glue and acrylic paint don't like each other but Elmers glue does lots better on finish.
 

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Interesting. We're talking about track pieces that actually bend into the desired configuration, right? I still don't see any references to it in either their on-line catalog or their track piece listing. Where did you get it, and what confirmation did you find that it's Kato?

And as far as acrylic paint and CA adhesives, you didn't try to apply glue on a painted surface, did you? That usually doesn't work well.
 

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Well, yes, if you read my post #24 above, you would see that it looks like old Atlas because it probably is. Which is why I asked where he got it and how he knew it was Kato.
 

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Well the video shows everyone what the track looks like and it's not just a guess like your post #24.
 

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Members, in the future I will be contributing way way less my own personal advice since member 'traction fan' nearly always enters his entire preset downloadable 'how tos' of every aspect of the hobby in near every thread where an OP asks for help..
I mean why bother laboriously typing letter by letter my own non-preset method, only to get outmoded by TF's instantly posted treasure trove ?
This reads like snotty or flaming. But it's not. I just mean, why bother at all when it's all, all of it, right there, or soon will be.
Luckily TF has invented a way to save himself and the rest of us from having to do the hard work of typing up our own personal advice, in turn freeing us up for more simple banter and chit chat. How cool is that !? (y)M
 

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See ya.
 

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Members, in the future I will be contributing way way less my own personal advice since member 'traction fan' nearly always enters his entire preset downloadable 'how tos' of every aspect of the hobby in near every thread where an OP asks for help..
I mean why bother laboriously typing letter by letter my own non-preset method, only to get outmoded by TF's instantly posted treasure trove ?
This reads like snotty or flaming. But it's not. I just mean, why bother at all when it's all, all of it, right there, or soon will be.
Luckily TF has invented a way to save himself and the rest of us from having to do the hard work of typing up our own personal advice, in turn freeing us up for more simple banter and chit chat. How cool is that !? (y)M
telltale;

You have discovered the exact reason I wrote all those files. I didn't want to retype everything by hand, for each newbie who asked, basically the same questions as others had.

I know I send the same files a lot, but I do refrain from sending them in cases where it likely they won't apply. (I also try, sometimes unsuccessfully, due to age & memory issues, not to send them twice to the same person.)
For instance, if a newbie starts off by asking about Lionel, two things immediately kick in. 1) The files don't really deal with Lionel type layouts. 2) There are a lot of people on our O-scale forum who know infinitely more than I ever will about all things Lionel. No files sent to this guy, instead a recommendation to ask over on the O-scale forum. (Where he's likely to get an intelligent answer. 馃槃)

I also don't send them to experienced modelers since the files are intended, and written, expressly for inexperienced modelers.
One exception to this policy would be if the person says he had a 4 x 8 full of tyco 30+ years ago, and now wants to build something better. In effect he's sort of a "newbie", with some Tyco in his distant past. (and don't we all have that?馃槃)

However telltale, you have experiences that I don't, and opinions may vary, so keep on contributing where ever you feel like doing so. We value your input. Didn't you say you have a lot of experience with Atlas Custom Line turnouts? I have none, since I'm an N-scaler, and Atlas doesn't make their Custom Line turnouts in N-scale. We have a new member, vette-kid, who could use some real experience-based advice about his Atlas Custom Line turnouts.Can you look up his thread, and help him out?

Thanks;

Traction Fan 馃檪
 

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Just to put things where they belong: I have as much experience with Atlas switches as anyone... The things I report about them are more along the line of how to make code 83 CustomlLines look better; which is simply to rub away the black coating on their frog and to paint the 4 insulators surrounding the frog with chrome enamel paint....
The tiny ring protruding from the bottom of their frog is for a screw to hold the neutral wire if you are going to add a powered ground throw of some sort...That's it !!
I recently was shown that it's not code 100 rail that was out of scale in HO like I used to claim. It is, instead, only the fault of the awful black, out of scale, too large, too closely spaced ties and their spike heads under it..I have always know their frogs are all plastic which is a big potential stall-out area for those who employ these switches (and crossings) at least until we go all-battery motor power in the future....
Anyway, you, of course, are free to do as you wish...For me and possibly many others your preordained how-to files pretty much knocks the wind out of my sails for much more contributing my own future how-tos..I mean it's surely a drag after laboring with my own ideas (just as I did above) to later on seeing or being in fear of eventually seeing your 'professionally-designed school' pop up in the thread, you having entered it/them with the click of one button.
But if it's fine with the Admin., then I've nothing more add......
All the best, 馃樂 M
 
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