You might try using those short metal pins with plastic heads that are used for cork notice boards to keep the nozzle clear. I don't know if you're aware that you can get a spray which makes the CA go off instantly. As for keeping it upright you could try some Blu-tak or similar on the base.
Anyone hate CA glue (superglue) like I do?
It hasn't improved since years ago when I was using it on balsa RC aircraft. At least on wood you can drip it on the joint, wait for a puff of smoke and you know it has set.
Now I'm using it to attach brass etched parts to plastic, building a Steam Era Models Victorian Railways GY Wagon - nice kit! The most detailed thing I have attempted and the first with brass parts.
I had some recently purchased CA glue but it had been used already and the nozzle was blocked (of course) so no choice but to take the cap right off and to dip a piece of waste sprue in there to get a bit of glue on the brass. Of course the sprue wants to stick to everything but does the brass want to stick to anything? Of course not. When it does finally seem to grab a slight nudge will dislodge it.
I've given up for the day because I knocked the glue over - stuck my building mat to the workbench, my pliers to the mat and even got some on my second best vernier calipers, so had to drop everything and do a quick emergency disassembly and oil. That left the level of glue in the bottle too low to dip the sprue into so I'm stuck until I get a chance to buy some more.
Does anyone have tips for keeping glue bottle nozzles usable after the first drop of glue has passed through them? Perhaps you'd like to recommend a favourite glue for attaching etched brass to plastic? The only advantage I'm seeing with CA is that I can join and hopefully not wait 24 hours for a joint to set, but I'm seriously thinking about spreading the build out over weeks and using epoxy instead. Maybe I need to assembly line 20 or so wagons and just do one joint at a time over several weeks.
Now I'm using it to attach brass etched parts to plastic, building a Steam Era Models Victorian Railways GY Wagon - nice kit! The most detailed thing I have attempted and the first with brass parts.
I had some recently purchased CA glue but it had been used already and the nozzle was blocked (of course) so no choice but to take the cap right off and to dip a piece of waste sprue in there to get a bit of glue on the brass. Of course the sprue wants to stick to everything but does the brass want to stick to anything? Of course not. When it does finally seem to grab a slight nudge will dislodge it.
I've given up for the day because I knocked the glue over - stuck my building mat to the workbench, my pliers to the mat and even got some on my second best vernier calipers, so had to drop everything and do a quick emergency disassembly and oil. That left the level of glue in the bottle too low to dip the sprue into so I'm stuck until I get a chance to buy some more.
Does anyone have tips for keeping glue bottle nozzles usable after the first drop of glue has passed through them? Perhaps you'd like to recommend a favourite glue for attaching etched brass to plastic? The only advantage I'm seeing with CA is that I can join and hopefully not wait 24 hours for a joint to set, but I'm seriously thinking about spreading the build out over weeks and using epoxy instead. Maybe I need to assembly line 20 or so wagons and just do one joint at a time over several weeks.
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Good tips John. FWIW, you can normally just scrape the CA off metal like the needle as well. Never thought about a lighter, but heat should do the trick.
Thanks John - I'm going to try that glass plate trick. I think there are probably enough sewing needles in the box for me to take one or two. Especially if nobody else knows about it.
I just bought some new bottles of CA, one thick and one thin. I could not find any in a round bottle, was thinking of using a wood base with a holesaw cut in it to keep it firmly upright. Oh well.
I just bought some new bottles of CA, one thick and one thin. I could not find any in a round bottle, was thinking of using a wood base with a holesaw cut in it to keep it firmly upright. Oh well.
I missed taking the cap off, that would explain the mess!
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