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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It hasn't improved since years ago when I was using it on balsa RC aircraft. At least on wood you can drip it on the joint, wait for a puff of smoke and you know it has set.

Now I'm using it to attach brass etched parts to plastic, building a Steam Era Models Victorian Railways GY Wagon - nice kit! The most detailed thing I have attempted and the first with brass parts.

I had some recently purchased CA glue but it had been used already and the nozzle was blocked (of course) so no choice but to take the cap right off and to dip a piece of waste sprue in there to get a bit of glue on the brass. Of course the sprue wants to stick to everything but does the brass want to stick to anything? Of course not. When it does finally seem to grab a slight nudge will dislodge it.

I've given up for the day because I knocked the glue over - stuck my building mat to the workbench, my pliers to the mat and even got some on my second best vernier calipers, so had to drop everything and do a quick emergency disassembly and oil. That left the level of glue in the bottle too low to dip the sprue into so I'm stuck until I get a chance to buy some more.

Does anyone have tips for keeping glue bottle nozzles usable after the first drop of glue has passed through them? Perhaps you'd like to recommend a favourite glue for attaching etched brass to plastic? The only advantage I'm seeing with CA is that I can join and hopefully not wait 24 hours for a joint to set, but I'm seriously thinking about spreading the build out over weeks and using epoxy instead. Maybe I need to assembly line 20 or so wagons and just do one joint at a time over several weeks.
:mad:
 

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You might try using those short metal pins with plastic heads that are used for cork notice boards to keep the nozzle clear. I don't know if you're aware that you can get a spray which makes the CA go off instantly. As for keeping it upright you could try some Blu-tak or similar on the base.
 

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I use Loctite products, and I get a lot of use out of each bottle of glue. I make sure to clear and wipe the tip after use so the glue doesn't dry on the nozzle after each use. I don't dip things in CA adhesive, so I don't know what that's about.

I frequently apply CA with a toothpick, it allows me to put the right amount onto what I'm securing. Trying to squirt it out of the bottle is not very exact and frequently results in a mess.

I'm confused about knocking it over and having it run all over, I've knocked the bottle over numerous times, but the small nozzle doesn't allow a lot of glue to flow, so I just pick it back up.
 

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Also, store it in a refrigerator standing upright. If you can get a sprue in the hole, it is way to big! I do like John and make a puddle and then use a toothpick to apply. A piece of 2X4 with an 1 1/2 hole works great for holding the bottle. I prefer the Bob Smith industries gap filling with the purple label and I buy the smallest size they have.
 

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Super glue is available in three formulations, characterized as "thin" or fast setting and low viscosity, "thick" or slow setting and highly viscous, and "medium" which as you might guess,is of intermediate viscosity. The thicker slow setting variety is my favorite for adhering metal to any surface.
An old timer taught me a method of application years ago that I've used successfully for R/C aircraft and model R.R. assembly. A small puddle of glue is squeezed out onto a small plate glass sheet and precisely applied with an applicator made with a large sewing needle glued into the end of a short 1/4" dowel. When the dried glue builds up on the glass a single edged razor scrapes it off cleanly, and any dried accumulation on the needle will burn off completely with a cigarette lighter flame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks John - I'm going to try that glass plate trick. I think there are probably enough sewing needles in the box for me to take one or two. Especially if nobody else knows about it. ;)

I just bought some new bottles of CA, one thick and one thin. I could not find any in a round bottle, was thinking of using a wood base with a holesaw cut in it to keep it firmly upright. Oh well.
 

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I for one have to agree with John, that the only one worth buying are "Loctite" formulations. The run of the mill Crazy Glue, and the Clones of it, just don't work as good as Loctite.
 

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John, I think he knocked it over after removing the cap!! I agree with you about Loctite, it's the best. I have one that I use all the time and leave the cap off. Doesn't dry out at all and works every time. I do use a zip kicker for larger joints!!

The right "tool" for the right job, eh?

Peter
 

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I for one have to agree with John, that the only one worth buying are "Loctite" formulations. The run of the mill Crazy Glue, and the Clones of it, just don't work as good as Loctite.
Have you tried Sinbad adhesives? I like them better than Loctite, but I've only seen them for sale at the Amherst train show. I have both a liquid and a gel that are over 3 years old with no signs of drying out.
 

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Take a standard paper clip, leave one end its regular shape, bend the other into a straight line. Stick straight end into used glue. It's easy to pull out, and the thin hole it leaves behind is perfect to limit glue from coming out in droves. Also take a small, 2x2 piece of tin foil and make a bathtub shaped container (takes some practice but you'll get it). Put drops of CA in there for use. Use a dental tool to dip into CA and spread glue where needed. Finally, as was mentioned earlier, scrape dried glue off next time you use dental tool.
 

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It is so much easier to control the quantity and
position of the CA glue when you use the gel form.
It won't spill either. I use a toothpick to place the
glue and do agree with GRJ that you must wipe
the end before capping it. However, if it does
'seal' itself, a straight pin will open it again.

I use the super cheap stuff from Harbor Freight.

Don
 
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