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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have spent over an hour searching the net and ebay for something similar. I guess I have looked at around 500 engines searching Goat, Docksider, and Switcher to no luck.

Nothing even close. Definitely not a popular design. No identification anywhere on the engine.
 

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Railroad Tycoon
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Ives?
What scale is it HO?

What pond did you fish it up from? :p
 

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Sorry I do not know who makes it. If it is as old as it looks then you may never know because for a bit everyone was making them(Sears,maceys). Is that a tin body on a cast iron frame or is it all cast? There is a lot of detail in that locomotive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is close, could be it but yours is missing a lot of parts. 0-4-2T engine from 1960. https://hoseeker.net/AthearnBrochuresAds/Brochure 1960 pg4.jpg

https://hoseeker.net/assemblyexplosionAthearn/Assembly Explosion Athearn 0-4-2T.jpg

Looks like the rear dome is home made on yours.
Thanks, I think your right. Athearn. The bell and air tank are in the right places, and I think the shown rear truck is missing.

It's HO with a cast frame and plastic body. Came from Maryland so maybe fished out of the Chesapeake Bay.

Bought it as track decoration but was hoping I could get it to run. No joy there as the motors windings show an open. Too bad, that's an early major league motor.

Thanks all for your comments.

Bob

Edit add: Looks better now after a good scrubbing, CRC contact cleaner on the brushes and light oil to the bushings.

Commutator turns with the application of a tooth pick so nothing is jammed. Still going to play with it.

Left the body as is, didn't want to disturb that beautiful patina.
 

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Have you considered a re-motor? I just stumbled across a whole "group" dedicated to remotoring. https://groups.io/g/RepowerAndRegear
There's apparently alot of cheap can motors on ebay now that are superior to the old open frame motors and folks have been popping them in various old locos, often without much difficulty.

Based on a similar thread at another forum, I purchased a quartet of "Mabuchi SF-266SA Mini 18mm Square 6-Pole Rotor DC 12V 24V 14500RPM High Speed" for $2 each including shipping just have them on hand. The fellow there was using two of them to power an Athearn 6 axle diesel. IIRC, he reported that two of them with no flywheels (one for each truck) functioned better than the previous single Athearn open motor with flywheels! Not bad for a $4 investment.

Probably best to ask the folks on the remotoring forum first though for a specific recommendation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the link, it will come in handy.

There is a parts seller on ebay that sells can motors for $20, well $19.99 + shipping.

Instead I look for old parts engines with good motors (look at the brushes to see wear) and buy them for $14 or less and transfer the motors to good locomotives. Worked out so far and I keep the rest for later use.

I found a "Little Monster" in the box on ebay for way to much money, but made an offer which was accepted. Pointed out the missing rear truck. But there is another trashed example with the rear wheels on which I have a bid.

That's the thing with this hobby, one thing leads to another and you wind up a poor man. :)

Not near as pretty as mine though...….

And cramden I appreciate that link to the schematic, it will help me sort the little critter out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looks like you'll have to tear it down and get the drivers back in sync before you can even see if it runs.
You have a good eye, but how could you tell from that photo showing only one side of the drive gear?

But your right, it is out of sync. I have fixed this in the past by slipping a tooth or two between the worm and drive gear, but this one isn't cooperating.

Big difference between this one and the original. Drive line is different, one has a universal, the other straight drive. Belly pans different too.

One brush is missing the tension spring, reason why it would not run. Have both motors running now.
 

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You have a good eye, but how could you tell from that photo showing only one side of the drive gear?
The first pictures of the new one that you shared (I assume from the ebay sale?) showed the wheels about 1/4 turn out of sync from each other on that side. The pin that connects the side rods to the driver wheels should always be in the same position on all wheels, and if I remember right they are 1/4 turn off between the left and right sides. From what I've heard, the REAL pain is when the wheels slips on the axle and you have to get the two sides back in the right positions relative to each other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Found the problem.

The transmissions housing for the splined axle split allowing rotation. I could simply swap housings but the drive shafts are different. May have to pry off one or the other and substitute.

Bummer!

I was successful in making a brush spring for the original saving that motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Third "Little Monster" arrives. Finally, seller took his time.

Not any better than the rest, well maybe slightly better than the Chesapeake Bay edition.

Something about these that attract rust and corrosion. But at least the drivers are aligned. Haven't tried it yet, I want to clean and lubricate where necessary to avoid cracking that axle housing.
 

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