[rrswede]

This Bachmann set was included with the purchase of some Lionel O gauge equipment. I am not very familiar with HO and certainly not familiar with DCC equipped locomotives.

I would like to test this locomotive using a conventional HO DC rectifier if that can be done without damage to the electronics and, additionally, need some clarification to correctly connect two broken tether wires that run between the tender and locomotive.

There are six wires from the tender, four are connected to one 4 prong plug and two are connected to one two prong plug. The wires to the two prong plug are disconnected. Does it matter which of the two wires goes to which prong?

Thank you for assisting me.

swede

 

[CTValleyRR]

If the loco is of fairly recent manufacture, the decoder will be "dual mode" and can operate on either DC or DCC. More than 5 years old would be a crap shoot.

I can't help with the wires, unfortunately, as I have no Bachmann steamers. All mine have a single plug.

 

[rrswede]

CTValleyRR, thank you for responding and for the information. Hopefully another member is able to tell me if it makes any difference which of the two wires goes to which prong.

swede

 

[DonR]

What you describe seems to indicate that the decoder
is in the tender. That being the case, you could see
color coded wires. NMRA standards require the same
wire colors in every decoder regardless of make.

What color are the wires that have
been disconnected? What colors are the wires to the
4 point plug that is intact?

Yes, if the decoder is in the tender it definitely would
make a difference as to which wire goes to which plug
terminal. However, it is possible that the 4 point plug
has the motor and light circuits and the 'loose' wires
have no purpose. Your reponses will give us a better
idea of what the wires are.

Don

 

[rrswede]

Thanks for the response, DonR, all six wires are black and there is no evidence they are replacements.

swede

 

[rrswede]

As a follow up, I placed a call to the Bachmann Service Department. After posing my question, the Service Manager, Laura Harris, indicated she would look up the wiring details between the tender and locomotive and email a schematic. Good to her word, I received the email, made connections per the schematic and now have a functioning Daylight GS4 4-8-4.

Now onto a Rivarossi 2-8-2 Mallet that was with the Bachmann GS4.

swede

 

[Jscullans]

How good does the Bachman gs4 run? I was thinking about one to pull my freedom train consist in the freedom train scheme but don’t want to pay the price for that loco till I get a couple good reviews

 

[rrswede]

Jscullans, I can't really tell you how well it runs or how it pulls. I do not have a HO layout, just a homemade test stand. The motor, itself, runs smoothly and quietly, but when fully assembled, noise from all the various rods is noticeable.

swede

 

[Jscullans]

Thank you for the info. I know mth has a gs4 in the freedom train paint scheme too and it’s only $100 more. Would be better off spending the money and just going there and not questioning how it runs then

 

[CTValleyRR]

Jscullans, I can't really tell you how well it runs or how it pulls. I do not have a HO layout, just a homemade test stand. The motor, itself, runs smoothly and quietly, but when fully assembled, noise from all the various rods is noticeable.

swede

Noise from the rods...? If it's a clicking sound, something may be bent there (usually a result of rough handling). If not, a tiny (like head of a pin tiny) drop of oil may fix the problem.

 

[rrswede]

Yes, CTValleyRR, you are exactly right. The word "clicking" didn't come to mind when I responded. A drop of oil did help but, in my opinion, the rods are connected too loosely. The sound they produced when moving on the test stand was more like clankity (sp) clank.

swede

 

[CTValleyRR]

Yes, CTValleyRR, you are exactly right. The word "clicking" didn't come to mind when I responded. A drop of oil did help but, in my opinion, the rods are connected too loosely. The sound they produced when moving on the test stand was more like clankity (sp) clank.

swede

This is a newly manufactured loco, right? There is normally some slop in the drivers and rods of steam locos to enable them to go around tighter curves than they normally would. This shouldn't make parts of the drive rods hit one another, though.

Can you post a picture of the rods and drivers on each side?

 

[rrswede]

CTValleyRR, here are three photos.

swede

 

[CTValleyRR]

I don't see any problems with the rods themselves, but in the bottom picture, it looks like the one of the driver sets is out of gauge (the left hand one roo wide). Do you have a standards gauge you can check them with? If not, that would be a good investment.

 

[rrswede]

If I planned to own and run or make a habit of repairing HO equipment, I would consider doing that. This equipment will hopefully go to a new home as is. It does look good and does run well.

Thanks for the look see and comment about the wheel gauge.

swede

 

[CTValleyRR]

If I planned to own and run or make a habit of repairing HO equipment, I would consider doing that. This equipment will hopefully go to a new home as is. It does look good and does run well.

Thanks for the look see and comment about the wheel gauge.

swede

If you plan to stay in the hobby, the standards gauge is the best investment you can make for troubleshooting (and you WILL have trouble that needs to be shot). Mystery derailments, noises, stalls, etc. all make use of the gauge for troubleshooting.

 

[rrswede]

CTValleyRR, if I was really into HO or N scale railroading, I would probably purchase the appropriate standards gauges. I suspect, because of their size, slight irregularities in wheel set create more operational issues for them than with O gauge; can't swear to that though. I have not found it necessary to own a test gauge for O, however.

swede