Model Train Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I took the wiring diagram off of this site ( http://www.awrr.com/indicator.html )and converted it into a simpler form for everyone to understand. Now I searched the web high and low to see if anyone had tried it. No posted any YouTube videos on how to set this circuit up. The closes video you can watch shows you how to wire up for a tortoise switch machine. On my next lay out I will go with tortoise or petco switch machines, easier to add led lights to them. I have attached my take on the wire diagram, but it’s not an electrical schematic. It is show you the switches and how to wire it all up. Where each wire goes etc. I did happen to find a diagram similar to this one, but instead of it being ground controlled it is power controlled. For this system to work you will need a dpdt switch, spst switch (normally open), red and green leds, and 1kohm resistor. I picked up the switches and leds off of amazon for $15 total. The resistors are from radio shack. If you have any questions, feel free to message me.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,153 Posts
Good job

I took the wiring diagram off of this site ( http://www.awrr.com/indicator.html )and converted it into a simpler form for everyone to understand. Now I searched the web high and low to see if anyone had tried it. No posted any YouTube videos on how to set this circuit up. The closes video you can watch shows you how to wire up for a tortoise switch machine. On my next lay out I will go with tortoise or petco switch machines, easier to add led lights to them. I have attached my take on the wire diagram, but it’s not an electrical schematic. It is show you the switches and how to wire it all up. Where each wire goes etc. I did happen to find a diagram similar to this one, but instead of it being ground controlled it is power controlled. For this system to work you will need a dpdt switch, spst switch (normally open), red and green leds, and 1kohm resistor. I picked up the switches and leds off of amazon for $15 total. The resistors are from radio shack. If you have any questions, feel free to message me.
monsterram;

Your circuit is very good. It should work OK. The only possible weak point would be the
S.P.S.T. push button. They have been known to short out, which would burn out one of the switch machine coils. Since you are using 12 Volts DC, that may be unlikely with a good quality push button, able to handle the sudden surge of current. Capacitive discharge systems avoid coil burnouts, even if the button should short out,
(or the operator holds it down for more than a second.) They won't recharge under those conditions.

On a lighter note, petco does sell tortoises, but not the kind that operate model turnouts.:laugh:
Just kidding. I assume you mean Peco. The Peco switch machine is just a twin coil type, similar to the ones you have. Tortise machines operate with slow motion, DC, stall motors.
The wiring for a stall motor is different from a twin coil. Since the tortoise has built in switch contacts, it would indeed, be simpler to wire LEDs to it.

Again good job.:thumbsup:Your drawing is commendably simple!

Traction Fan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
monsterram;

Your circuit is very good. It should work OK. The only possible weak point would be the
S.P.S.T. push button. They have been known to short out, which would burn out one of the switch machine coils. Since you are using 12 Volts DC, that may be unlikely with a good quality push button, able to handle the sudden surge of current. Capacitive discharge systems avoid coil burnouts, even if the button should short out,
(or the operator holds it down for more than a second.) They won't recharge under those conditions.

On a lighter note, petco does sell tortoises, but not the kind that operate model turnouts.:laugh:
Just kidding. I assume you mean Peco. The Peco switch machine is just a twin coil type, similar to the ones you have. Tortise machines operate with slow motion, DC, stall motors.
The wiring for a stall motor is different from a twin coil. Since the tortoise has built in switch contacts, it would indeed, be simpler to wire LEDs to it.

Again good job.:thumbsup:Your drawing is commendably simple!

Traction Fan


Thank you so much for the positive feed back. I was afraid i might be beating a dead horse with this topic. The push button switch is from radio shack, but i do understand what you are saying about quality. I built a capictor discharge unit, i think i will post that drawing also. It's one i found on another forum, but it helped me tons, especially after the couple failed attempts at building one recommended in a different forum. To be honest it took me till now to figure out most of these schmatic. I figured there are people like me who want to build and solder, but need a more straight forward and simple drawing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,644 Posts
Here is fast charging cap unit from
Model Railroader Electronics book.

I use the second, fast charge unit
shown. Parts around 10.00 at Radio Shack.

I power mine with an ordinary house
door bell transformer, 18 v ac. It has
the power to throw 6 Peco PL 10 twin coil
turnouts at the same time on my
diode matrix yard panel.


View attachment IMG_20151007_0002.pdf

Don
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Here is fast charging cap unit from
Model Railroader Electronics book.

I use the second, fast charge unit
shown. Parts around 10.00 at Radio Shack.

I power mine with an ordinary house
door bell transformer, 18 v ac. It has
the power to throw 6 Peco PL 10 twin coil
turnouts at the same time on my
diode matrix yard panel.


View attachment 88018

Don

That's pretty simple, i might try to build that one on my expansion to my current layout. when i have a chance i will post the one i have, it includes an led. I like having the led to let me know the circuit is working and if comes back on after firing to let me know we are at full charge. I am currently building my command console, once done i will be able to see how many it can fire off before i give it the half a second to recharge. I'm powering mine with the 18vac from a spare train transformer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I took the wiring diagram off of this site ( http://www.awrr.com/indicator.html )and converted it into a simpler form for everyone to understand. Now I searched the web high and low to see if anyone had tried it. No posted any YouTube videos on how to set this circuit up. The closes video you can watch shows you how to wire up for a tortoise switch machine. On my next lay out I will go with tortoise or petco switch machines, easier to add led lights to them. I have attached my take on the wire diagram, but it’s not an electrical schematic. It is show you the switches and how to wire it all up. Where each wire goes etc. I did happen to find a diagram similar to this one, but instead of it being ground controlled it is power controlled. For this system to work you will need a dpdt switch, spst switch (normally open), red and green leds, and 1kohm resistor. I picked up the switches and leds off of amazon for $15 total. The resistors are from radio shack. If you have any questions, feel free to message me.

A mistake i found when i tested the circuit is that you need to supply 12v to the dpdt switch that has the leds hooked up too. so essentially there is 2 12vs going to the dpdt. A stupid mistake i make, hopefully some of you figured it out before i did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,153 Posts
Push button problems?

Thank you so much for the positive feed back. I was afraid i might be beating a dead horse with this topic. The push button switch is from radio shack, but i do understand what you are saying about quality. I built a capictor discharge unit, i think i will post that drawing also. It's one i found on another forum, but it helped me tons, especially after the couple failed attempts at building one recommended in a different forum. To be honest it took me till now to figure out most of these schmatic. I figured there are people like me who want to build and solder, but need a more straight forward and simple drawing.
Monsterram;

If your Radio Shack push button is red, and about 1/4" in diameter; it MAY burn out.
I emphasize MAY, because it's quite possible that it won't. The possible problem with these little buttons is
their low current rating. Years ago, I had a bunch of the red buttons from Radio Shack on my control panel.
On that layout, I was using a capacitive discharge unit.
After several buttons had failed, been replaced with new red buttons, and the replacements failed, I went to larger, door bell type, buttons with a higher current rating. They worked fine.
I would certainly not bother changing out buttons already installed. If you haven't built the control panel yet, you might consider getting higher current buttons.
Conditions on my old layout were likely different from yours. I was using Tenshodo machines (which draw a lot of current). I also was firing several at once, and using a high power CD unit to get them all to fire reliably. Since you are using a different brand of machine, with a different CD unit, you may never have the problem I did. I think DonR ,or another forum member, has been using the little red buttons and a CD unit for years. I'll let him comment on his experience.

Traction Fan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I will listen to your warning. I do in fact have those exact buttons. Do you think if they burn out they will kill my atlas switches? I will look into alternative. What rating is your upgraded switches? I do have them installed and soldered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,644 Posts
Yep, Traction fan, I have those little red, and their companion,
little black buttons from Radio Shack on all of my 20 plus
Peco PL 10 turnout motors powered by a CDU. I've had Radio Shack DPDT switch go bad
but not the buttons.

With the CDU if they short out there won't do any damage.

Don
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yep, Traction fan, I have those little red, and their companion,
little black buttons from Radio Shack on all of my 20 plus
Peco PL 10 turnout motors powered by a CDU. I've had Radio Shack DPDT switch go bad
but not the buttons.

With the CDU if they short out there won't do any damage.

Don
ok thanks Don R, you eased my worry. I am thinking i about to lose more money if they burn out my atlas switches. Thank you Traction Fan for the info and heads up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
I took the wiring diagram off of this site ( http://www.awrr.com/indicator.html )and converted it into a simpler form for everyone to understand. Now I searched the web high and low to see if anyone had tried it. No posted any YouTube videos on how to set this circuit up. The closes video you can watch shows you how to wire up for a tortoise switch machine. On my next lay out I will go with tortoise or petco switch machines, easier to add led lights to them. I have attached my take on the wire diagram, but it’s not an electrical schematic. It is show you the switches and how to wire it all up. Where each wire goes etc. I did happen to find a diagram similar to this one, but instead of it being ground controlled it is power controlled. For this system to work you will need a dpdt switch, spst switch (normally open), red and green leds, and 1kohm resistor. I picked up the switches and leds off of amazon for $15 total. The resistors are from radio shack. If you have any questions, feel free to message me.
could you post your part numbers please . I'm trying to replace my atlas ones and going to use a cdu . I want to use a spst momentary push button .
mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,644 Posts
Hey MonsterRam1500

(I have one o them too...love my bright red 09 Ram)

The circuit you used is exactly the same as
what I used for my panel LEDs. It's awakward
but it works, if you don't forget to push the
button and the LED gives a wrong signal and
the HOG comes in to rerail a loco or car.

If I had known about them when I built my panel
I would have used the Stapleton 751D. It also
is a toggle switch (but without the button), includes
a CDU and controls the panel and track side signals.

Nice looking panel.

Don
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I saw what your talking about. ( Btw i love my 2012, she just needs a lift kit) i am not sure about those. They look really bulky. I mean i like the separation, but i understand about forgetting to flip a switch or push a button. I might try that route when i get the layout out of storage.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top