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Discussion Starter #1
I may have already posted something about this and just forgot, or maybe I posted it in a different forum,But I bought a new turntable from Atlas,it did not work, something broken on the inside I guess,ordered another new one,I was broken,Called Atlas to inquier "whats up" ?Ofcourse they just say "send it in for warrenty"so I was wondering if any one else is having ,or heard of any one reporting such problems? .............Mike
 

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Mike, I've had a lot of trouble with my Atlas O-Ga turntable.

One big problem I notified Atlas about was that my Erie (POSTWAR) diesel stops quickly when trying to cross the turntable. I traced the problem down to the WIDTH of the diesel's drive wheels in relation to the rails & plastic platform of the turntable.
Specifically, the width of my Erie diesel's wheels range form 1.640" to 1.698" while the opening in the plastic floor is only 1.582".

That, plus the metal rails being from 0.0" to 0.036" below the plastic floor causes the diesel to loose contact as it tries to cross the turntable.

When I contacted Atlas on 6/14/2012 I was told " The post war engines do have a wider wheel surface then the more modern ones, I have to play around and see if I can come up with a solution".

I haven't heard anything back yet on that.

Another problem involves the "stalling" of the turntable. No problem when it turns CLOCKWISE, but it stops, motor turns with slipping belt, at a few sidings when turning COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.

I haven't been able to get back to Atlas and I hope to do so soon..... I hope.

Norm
 

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well, I didn't even get to run any locos on mine,one was broken right out of the box,this was the replacement for the one that would not make a complete round in eather dirrection with throwing the belt,it would get to a point and just lock up,still don't know why.
It is a shame that a company like Atlas ,who offers such a nice track ,makes such a flimsey piece of sh== crap,truntable,with just a little better grade of plastic, I think it would be,prolly the best one to get. JMO ofcourse...............Mike
 

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That was my thought too Ed.

I haven't had the time to try it and have been concentrating on other jobs on the layout.

I have to be in the right frame of mind to get involved with a hand grinder!!

Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That was my thought too Ed.

I haven't had the time to try it and have been concentrating on other jobs on the layout.

I have to be in the right frame of mind to get involved with a hand grinder!!

Norm

Let me know how that turns out . ............Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Turntable update

Ok, I got one of the Atlas turntables to finelly work,but it is a pain,first I replaced a broken gear to get to even turn ,then the real work began.
I learned that it MUST be perfectlly level,because it is so flimsly and flexable ,the gear will disengauge and lock up.
I cut one layer of homasote,a 30"x30" square out,then Replaced it with a 1/2" piece of high grade ply wood,then I still had to shim it in some points,but it does work now,but only in clock wise direction,Atlas said that was ok,he said they all do that,I say that is not good enough,I will figure it out,also ,like Norm said ,some of the locos drop out of power when on the bridge because the plastic on the outer edge of the outside rails are to high,and no "ground " connection is made.
I am gunna see if the rails can be slid out of the way so I can trim off some of plastic,give the wheels more room.

I will post my results. ................Mike :thumbsup: :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I though about that,but the rails are fixed in gruves,and so there is no room for a shim,now, if the tabs in the gruves are cut off, maybe then,but now the rails would have to be epoxyed back in some how,and then I'am sure there would be conductivity issures, so I' am not 100% sure at this time,I just got my turntable,I haven't been fighting it as long as some others,but maybe together, we can find a fix for all of our turntable problems....................Mike :D
 

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Atlas said that!
They all do that!?
Then they should add that in their description of the turntables features!

That is BS! :eek:

Mine operates clockwise fine, sometimes counter clockwise.


That is the only problem I have with mine, besides some stopping on the bridge.

That is the answer they gave you?!

I think I am going to boycott all their products in all scales!:thumbsdown::thumbsdown:
 

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Well Ed, the three of us all have the same problem, CW okay..... CCW No good.
Plus, of course PostWAr Lionel wheels are too wide to make contact on the bridge.

Maybe I should give Atlas another call to see what they might want to do about it?

I'll try that tomorrow afternoon. I have been in contact with one of their tech guys, maybe he can help.

Norm
ps, I have just sent them an email to see what they want to do.

Stay tuned!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Atlas said that!
They all do that!?
Then they should add that in their description of the turntables features!

That is BS! :eek:

Mine operates clockwise fine, sometimes counter clockwise.


That is the only problem I have with mine, besides some stopping on the bridge.

That is the answer they gave you?!

I think I am going to boycott all their products in all scales!:thumbsdown::thumbsdown:

yes, that is what he said,and when I told him about the clearence issures on some of the locos,[and BTW its not only PW locos,some of my new locos do it to] he really didn't have a good answer,just said 'well the scale wheel locos don't have that problem" that kinda Peeeeded me off a little bit,I reminded him that most of us run high rail,some like pre and post war trains,then I told him "if you advertise it to run both two and three rail ,it should work with all of them"
In my own opinon,I think Atlas should re-design the turntable,and retro ours,at no cost ofcourse. .............Mike
 

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I think they will soon be out of business with an attitude like that.
That is not the only problem they have.:thumbsdown:

Just run it clockwise! That takes forever and then sometimes your turned the wrong way.

Maybe the guy you talked to Mike did not know his you know what from his you know what.

Like I said sometimes mine works OK counter clockwise, it always works fine clockwise. I have not fooled with it, I thought it was just mine as I did have it apart to get a runaway pin or screw ( I forgot what it was now) out from under it once. I thought it was maybe the way I put it back together doing it.
The only other problem is some of the trains stopping on the bridge.
As far as the motor and belt I never had a problem there.
Yet.:rolleyes:

Thanks Norm, keep us updated.
 

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Ed & Mike, I did receive an email back from Atlas. :eek:hwell:

I was advised:

"There is not a major problem with the turn table as our display has been working for ten years now."

That only makes me think something must have changes in the last 10 years??

Considering the work involved to remove the table ..... and to pack it carefully to avoid damage as they advised, & to ship it to them, I offered to let them check out the problem here on my layout as I am not too far from them.

That offer wasn't addressed and but I was (again) advised to send it in so they could see it!

However, as far as the lost contact of PostWar locomotives when moving on the table problem, They have been working on that since last August as best I can remember and I haven't received any solution to the problem from them. :eek:

I (finally) realized my paint scraper might just scrape off enough of the walkway to allow the wheels to contact with the rails and I could forget about using the hand grinder.

I tried that and now there is NO MORE CONTACT PROBLEM!!

Just FYI, I used a 1" Red Devil paint scraper. It is the one with a black-plastic handle that uses replacement blades # 3166.

Work very carefully and start pulling on a 45º angle on the plastic you are removing.....just after the start of a plank as it will cut across the "planks" if starting "in the groove" at the beginning of each plank. (ask me how I know :rolleyes:).

Stop just before getting to the next groove to avoid the scratch across the deck.

You only need about 2 or 3 passes and it can be done with the table in place without removing it from the base.

By turning the table 180º you can remove the small area you couldn't do at the groove.

So, I don't think I am about ready to mess up my layout and take the chance of shipping damage, etc. as I now have about 20 of the stalls of the table being used with track screwed down through the table base.

Let me know if you guys do come up with the CCW problem. I did add 2 clamps to the "loose" end of the motor-mounting base.....to the table but it only made a slight difference.

Norm
 

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How about a picture of the shaving?

Read your thread on the turntable.....I just posted on it.

I wish Mike would have done a search before he started a new thread, then everything would have been together on it in one thread.
 

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OK thanks that doesn't look too hard to do. All your engines work on it now?
That is what I thought was the problem with mine but was afraid to carve it. You need to do nothing about the middle rail, right?

You think Atlas would have built them like that!

But then again they don't have any problems. :rolleyes:

I see a spot for a custom built roundhouse on your table. :D:thumbsup:
Or maybe a 2 stall engine house somewhere?
 

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Norm, by looking at your picture I see that you did the one inside and not the other side?

Do you have to shave the insides or do you think the outside shaving will be enough?

Or did you shave it and I just can't see it?

DSCN1307 (Large).JPG
 

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Ed, you caught my mistake, I only meant to carve the "outside" openings.

I did part of the inside left opening as you saw, then stopped when I remembered only the outside needed carving.

I haven't tried all my other PostWar engines and I will let you know if I have any that don't work.

BTW, how did you embed the photo into the message???
 

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Ed, you caught my mistake, I only meant to carve the "outside" openings.

I did part of the inside left opening as you saw, then stopped when I remembered only the outside needed carving.

I haven't tried all my other PostWar engines and I will let you know if I have any that don't work.

BTW, how did you embed the photo into the message???

What I do to post a picture,
1,When your typing your post, look up top & click on the paper clip.
2,That opens a box then click browse.
3,That will open another box find your picture where ever it is in your computer. (say downloads,camera,files wherever your picture is.)
When you find the picture click on it then click open, it will then be in your box where you clicked browse.
4, Then click upload, wait to make sure it uploads. (when you click upload makes sure it uploads you will see where it says uploading then the attachment shows if it uploads, if it doesn't upload it tells you that it failed. Most likely it is too big then.)
5, After it uploads go back to this post box where you are typing and click the paper clip again and click insert attachments.

Your picture should be in the thread.
Note, if the picture won't upload most likely it is too big.


I went back down to the dungeon and the motor turns both way when hooked to the gear? :confused:

Though it still doesn't sound as strong going CCW then it does going CW.

The 2 screws nearest the turntable on the plastic gear housing cover I find it works somewhat better loosened up some.
If I hand crank it still hangs up in spots CCW, I do believe your right about the little stub that slides into the slot is screwing up. I wonder if shaving all the slots would help?

I think the reason it works better in CW is because the motor is stronger in that position.

I tried shimming up the plastic gear housing cover and it worked a little better but still hung up.
 
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