Check that the coupler-pin will be ~1/32 inch (or more) above the rail-top while placing a slight downward pressure on the end of the coupler. The pressure is to place the coupler at the low point of its up/down movement. If you do not have a coupler-gage, use a ~1/32 inch thick piece of a flat-something and tape it across the rail-tops. This is what I had to do before I could successfully run long trains across a switch at the bottom of a long down-grade.
Bob

 

Kadee has a tool designed to adjust the height of the part of the coupler you are talking about. (Sorry, I forget what it is called). I had the same problem as I have the same track. Adjusting the height of that "thingy" solved the problem.
God Bless
Bob

 

Just an FYI- the "thingy" is called a "trip lever" or a "trip pin". It's shape is designed to roughly resemble a brake hose so as to not look too out of place, and it requires the same clearance from the top of the rails on anything between the rails as Kadee's uncoupler magnets do.

 

Thanks, jesteck. Was wracking my brain until it hurt, trying to remember the name of it. I find that is happening more and more since I turned 65! (and I heard it gets even worse, the more I mature)

God Bless
Bob

 

Thanks all the replies! Very helpful info!

 

Shock

If the suggestions offered do not solve your derailing
try this:

Run the cars that derail as slow as your train will go
thru the suspect turnouts. Have a strong light on
the wheels. Get down close and watch the wheels.
When you see one LIFT...STOP.

That is where the problem is. See what is different
about the points, frogs, or joiners there. You may
have to do this more than once to get it.

Don

 

My whole layout is based on EZ track, and there is the odd time that the cars derail over the switches. Make sure that the height is the same on the couplers of ever piece of rolling stock you have on the tracks. Also, periodically check your track connections. EZ track has a habit of loosening at random.

-J.