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Hahaha and it takes over a week to get a pack of couplers from Michigan to central Illinois. Must be nice to depend on a shipper
 

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Bought this one a couple of years ago. Cheap, no tender, doesn't need it to run, self contained.

Bought it because it was nicely detailed and cheap! Doesn't run. didn't run. Started to take it apart, gave up when the valve gear started to separate. The bottom plate is held on by four screws, and cylinders float unless restrained. Usually these just separate frame from boiler. Anyone taken one apart?

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Got it. Go top down rather that bottom up. Two small screws hold the shell on, remove them and all is revealed. Brushes look ok, clean the commutator and she should be a runner.

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Got it. Go top down rather that bottom up. Two small screws hold the shell on, remove them and all is revealed. Brushes look ok, clean the commutator and she should be a runner.

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Nice find, Rsv. That's an early version with the pancake motor embedded in one half of the frame, which was quieter than the white plastic motor they made later. Should be a good runner as long as the drivers stay quartered (I always run a bead of CA around the plastic axle where it meets each metal stub axle to be sure they never slip, then scrape off any that ran onto the metal axles to ensure electrical pickup).

It also has the original blow molded smoke unit. Just be careful with it, as I think it's possible for it to melt the stack.
 

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Thanks, It's great to hear from someone with a little knowledge about these.

I did get it to run after cleaning the commutator by applying voltage across the brushes, or a brush and the opposite polarity driver. But, curious, it will run only if the brass screw connecting the two haves is left out, put it back in and nothing. A short maybe. Put it on the track and nothing, seems the track pick-up is missing.

But, I was having so much fun running it laying on it's side that I didn't turn the no-load speed down and I heard the inevitable click of gears and watched as the side rods and valve gears meshed in an improper way. The motors drive gears had slipped a tooth or three. Darn, darn, darn just as things were going well. That quartering thing. Thinking all was lost, i removed the bottom plate raised the geared driver and replaced in a position that I thought would work - and it did. Back up and operating (at a lower speed) without the brass screw but still no track pick up.

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Try a plastic screw?
Even more curious, the screw doesn't appear to do anything. The two halves are already held securely in place by the frame. If it does anything it increases the pressure on the motors drive gears holding them in alignment hence the position on that side over the gears.
 

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Even more curious, the screw doesn't appear to do anything. The two halves are already held securely in place by the frame. If it does anything it increases the pressure on the motors drive gears holding them in alignment hence the position on that side over the gears.
Those brass machine screws carry the current from the frame halves to the brush retainers on the motor. IIRC the long screw goes in the back and makes the connection to the opposite half of the frame. If it's shorting, there may be a missing insulator.

Edit: Just occurred to me that if the front screw hole is a through hole and you put the long screw in it, It could short to the opposite side of the frame.
 

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Those brass machine screws carry the current from the frame halves to the brush retainers on the motor. IIRC the long screw goes in the back and makes the connection to the opposite half of the frame. If it's shorting, there may be a missing insulator.

Edit: Just occurred to me that if the front screw hole is a through hole and you put the long screw in it, It could short to the opposite side of the frame.

Thanks, Gave me inspiration to take it apart again.

The front side of locomotives brush retainer has a long screw, the other short. Other than that the only other screw is the screw pictured.

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