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Highvoltage: I checked your link and it looks like a 100Ω and a 680Ω would do it but is that for AC as well?
Warren: caps in an AC circuit? Also, would the diodes change it to DC and the voltage drop across 2 would give me 16 DC?
 

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Highvoltage: I checked your link and it looks like a 100Ω and a 680Ω would do it but is that for AC as well?
Warren: caps in an AC circuit? Also, would the diodes change it to DC and the voltage drop across 2 would give me 16 DC?
Resistors don't care if it's AC or DC. And those resistor values are common, should do the trick.
 

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Highvoltage: I checked your link and it looks like a 100Ω and a 680Ω would do it but is that for AC as well?
Warren: caps in an AC circuit? Also, would the diodes change it to DC and the voltage drop across 2 would give me 16 DC?

If your intended use is a CDU module, it doesn't matter much if it's fed 16V AC or 18.6V AC, it will work fine either way :)
A LED is nice to add to that, it will give a visual indication of when it's ready to fire again
 

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Yep, I added an LED and ran it to my panel and labeled it CDU Status. My concern was that the 2 2200µF caps are rated at 25 volts and not 35. I hooked it up and so far so good.
 

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411 on Soldering

After a bazillion years struggling with crappy soldering skills, I set about understanding it as a way to go about getting better. I wanted to know what a good joint was vs a bad one; what causes bad ones; what the heck was flux really for; how to choose the right soldering tip; and how to use the various techniques to desolder.

I found a series on soldering from Pace Worldwide and spent a couple hours going through the various episodes. It's fantastic and everything clearly explained. I watched it sped up on YouTube. YMMV. It was well worth the time and my next soldering job was instantly better. Here's a link to part 1.

I was also at the end of my rope with my 3rd hand setup and tool organization. I wanted a better way to hold my stuff. This is what I've used for a few years:

2018-10-20 15.12.40.jpg

I decided on the Panavise 350 as it's flexible enough to handle small stuff as well as big and sits on a versatile ball joint. What I love about it that I didn't realize until my first project was that the vise rails are great for resting your hands when soldering. It's much more steady and at my age, that's a welcome help. YMMV.

350large.gif

Next was the 3rd hand. I thought it would be clever to get one of the Hobby Creek ones built specifically for the Panavision 350 but when I got it, I could see it was junk and returned it immediately. The screws to attach it to the base tray weren't long enough and I had to make my own from 1" stock. Their assembly process stripped the screws holding the arms so it would be a bear to reposition them and lastly, the threaded holes for attaching the Panavise head were very poor quality and buggered up the screws.
IMG_9993_1d65a2ce-8dd9-4db8-980b-2b20a18239ff_1024x1024.jpg

In the end, I switched to an QuadHandsWorkbench model by Alphidia that's also build for the Panavise. The QuadHands Workbench is made in the US and is light years better quality. The arms are precise and the alligator tips can be locked into position. This model as well as other Alphidia models use very handy rare earth magnets on the arm bases that make repositioning them a snap yet they hold them firm as can be. There are other Alphidia models with fixed attach points.
717sriwcPeL._SL1500_1024x1024.jpg

The only remaining problem was what to do with the nice Panavise weighted tray base leftover after mounting the Panavise on the QuadHands Workbench base. For that, I built a soldering tool caddy dedicated to just stuff for soldering and all the little bits that go with it. It's way better than before. YMMV
2018-10-21 13.02.20.jpg
 

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Definitely a skill that helps you in Model railroading! I've built a lot of Eico kits, an Imsai8080 computer and never really improved my soldering. I finally got a good solder station and that was a key to me spending the time to learn to solder better. Making my own turnouts was the first real test! All worth the effort. Nice to see a link to a good course on soldering.:appl:
 

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WOOF!! I'm not sure what I'd use it on, but I want one of those anyway, just cause!!
 

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Super magnifier

You want a high powered lighted magnifier? Here's one. :)

Digital HD 600X Microscope 4.3 Inch Display USB Endoscope Magnifying Camera, $48



Here's an example of some images from the unit. The actual component is about 3/8" wide.

Low resolution

View attachment 470906


High resolution

View attachment 470908
This might be just the thing for some of our older members! :smilie_auslachen: Oh wait, I am an older member!

Traction Fan:smilie_daumenpos:
 

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Anyone have a guidance on O-gauge power supplies and track length? Planning to set up my dad's old Marx (with some new switches and more track acquired), and not sure if the 50w supply he had will suffice. I was thinking of running 14g wire from the supply to two different connections on opposite sides of the track to help reduce power drop. Whole thing is set up on a 4x8 but has a pretty good distance of track, incorporating a crossover and a total of 4 switches. Do I need to step up to a 100w supply?
 

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Rule of thumb you will read here is to place power drops about every 6 feet of linear track. I found that to be true with my tubular track. You need to make sure you keep the phase of the power exactly the same on each drop. 50W seems insufficient to run very much especially if there's inclines. You *might* run one train across all those drops but adding accessories ....

You CAN add transformers together so you aren't wasting a pefectly good transformer when you pick up another one. Search here for articles on how to wire it
 
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