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Is this a 622 bell ringer engine? If so, do you actually need the bell itself or a part of the mechanism the makes it ring? Its not uncommon for the cam or pawl to wear so the hammer doesn't move far enough.

Pete
 

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The part is 2227B-7, for $25, at www.ttender.com (Jeff Kane).
The steam tender mechanism is different from the NW2, no? The tender has a bimetallic strip that heats up and releases the hammer whle the NW2 works off a geared cam driven by the wheels.
I have read that is was common for parents to disable the bell as it could become pretty irritating after a few minutes of constant ringing.
The one in mine is worn but still rings if only softly. Still a few minutes is enough.

Pete
 

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Lionel switcher 6220 shown here also the 622 had same setup and #s also heat stamped on the front end.
The 623 switcher looks just like the above except #s but did not come with a bell. These earlier switchers are powerful with their pullmore motor, magnetraction and die cast frames and very smooth quiet runners. Few years later switchers had a stamped metal frame.
Here is what the bell setup looks like.
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Pete, The part number was listed in the Service manual,, and found at Ttender..
 

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Pete, The part number was listed in the Service manual,, and found at Ttender..
That must just be for the bell itself. I can see where both would share the bell if not the complete mechanism.

25 bucks is what Jeff Kane has listed on his website.

You might be able to find something like these if only the bell itself is missing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-We...059085?hash=item1ef74d544d:g:UYIAAOSwogpaaBQl

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-ex...289976?hash=item25e1ee70b8:g:aTUAAOSwpOBZ0CFq

Pete
 

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The front truck in your picture is from a 623. The numbers on the cab were heat stamped which leaves a slight impression. If the previous owner did not fill in impressions before repainting you might be able still see those impressions.
There were differences in the magne traction but not obvious unless you took the front truck apart. The 1949 622 had the weakest magnets, stonger on the 1950 622 and stronger still on the 623.

Pete
 

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In the NW2 its on all the time. The only way to stop it is by removing the bell. You would need not only the bell itself but all the parts in the truck that move the hammer. If you can find a 622/6220 front truck you are halfway there but I suspect the truck and the bell will cost more than a beat up 622.
There are electronic alternatives from Lionel, Williams, and Electric RR but you are still looking at something over 60 bucks with a speaker which is what, it seems, bell truck assemblies go for these days.

Pete
 

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Look at the screw holes where the bracket would be by looking at example i posted on page 1 you may be able to tell if there ever was a screw in those empty holes by looking for wear. Also the axle itself may be of help as the cam may have left marks on its ends.
.I can see when i inverted your picture a #2 on the cab but cannot see the last #.

Also if it was a bell swicther 6220 or 622 would be stamped on the front below the headlights more toward the bottom portion on the front area.
I have to say the bell is really noting special it just goes ding then a few feet later ding you may be disappointed by its sounds because its a ding nothing like a church bell ! and can be annoying but easily silenced by slightly bending the arm to the hammer back far enough to not strike.

Edit- also if you take a close up clear picture of each side of the cab only below the window i may be able to invert your picture which is kinda of like an x ray picture and see the heat stamp outline and thus tell what the number is unless the new paint was applied very thick,
 
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