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Many prefer the 2" foam, so as wvgca mentioned, you
can dig ditches and make other landscaping holes.

It's also useful if you use attached twin coil turnout
motors. You can cut out an approx 1" square and those
motors will fit right in without need to cut holes in your
wood.

Don
 

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Is it too late to take off the OSB. That stuff likes to soak up moisture and expand over time 1/2" to 5/8 to 3/4. Is the layout in a damp basement or dry-air conditioned upstairs room?
 

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Many prefer the 2" foam, so as wvgca mentioned, you
can dig ditches and make other landscaping holes.

It's also useful if you use attached twin coil turnout
motors. You can cut out an approx 1" square and those
motors will fit right in without need to cut holes in your
wood.

Don
Is there any reason why 2" rigid foam can't be placed directly on top of my bench work?
Debating whether to put a sub surface of 3/8" Luan wood sheet underneath the foam or just use the foam.

544074
 

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If you are dead-set on using foam as a sub-roadbed, I would certainly want wood, even Luann under it on the benchwork.

I'm just too 'old school' to consider anything like foam for Modell Eisenbahn building. I have always used plywood for non-elevated layouts, and now currently cookie cutter plywood for sub-roadbed. I want a rock-solid base just like my benchwork to mount track and scenery.

But that's just me. Your railroad, your rules.

When I was a kid at eight or nine years old, my first two layouts ran terribly because of shakey unsupported plywood propped up on anything I could find to support it. I had no help and no one around to advise me on such things, so it was trial and error.

My third layout was incredible by the time I was ten or eleven and ran very well on solid benchwork and 5/8ths playwood. I learned from experience, that being the best teacher.
 

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I completely disagree with MichaelE. I have built two layouts now using nothing but extruded foam panels between the track and the benchwork. I have no issues at all. Assuming those joists are about 24" apart or less, it will be rock solid.

The only issue might be if you want to screw things into the bottom (screw eyes for wiring, switch machine mounts, etc). To control wiring, I use zip ties and attach the tail to the underside of the layout with hot melt glue. Similarly, I mount the servos that I use as switch machines in a plywood bracket, which I hot glue to the underside of the layout. So I have no need for a wooden base. That's always worked perfectly for me. YMMV
 
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I've got 3.5 inches of foam sitting on top of 3/4” plywood.
The only reason I have the plywood is that it's part of the vintage homemade ping pong table I used for my bench work.
 
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