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RTR models lettering is not done by decals, it is usually printed on with special ink/paint. There are several different methods of removing lettering, not all work on all models, even by the same manufacturer.

I've used Walthers Solvaset decal solvent on a cotton swab to remove lettering on some models. It works some times, but you need to watch carefully as you go along, as the paint underneath can also be removed. Others have used waterless hand cleaner, rubbing alcohol, commercial model paint remover, etc. There is no one solution for all models, its mostly a matter of experimenting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you replying. I don't think that Solvaset will work with BLI engines. I have used it successfully with some Bachman lettering, but I am almost positive this is some kind of paint rather than a decal. I have even heard that brake fluid has been used. But that dissolves the rest of the paint as well. I don't have any painting equipment and really don't want to get involved. So if there were a way to remove lettering only....
 

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Unfortunately, painting over the lettering is not the answer....you will always be able to see the outlines of the lettering under the paint.....the paint used for the lettering has a thickness that can't be eliminated by simply painting over it, you will always be able to see it......

The original lettering needs to be removed.....and it's not as easy as one might think it should be.....
 

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there are many things that will remove lettering, unfortunately most of them will remove paint also ..
there isn't any guarantee that they won't remove any paint, sorry ..
if i had the -same- make and model, i could probably say what won't likely remove paint, but i have never relettered that same make and model ..
if it actually is 'pad printing' it even reduces your options further ..
 

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Thanks for all the input. Looks like it might be smart to leave well-enough-alone!
Well, ultimately, it's pretty tough to perfectly re-letter a factory paint job without a complete do-over. I have come fairly close. Using a micro brush
and Testors Easy Lift Off (ELO ) I was able to remove the factory-painted numerals with minimal damage to the underlying / surrounding paint. Basically, use the brush to cover the lettering with ELO, wait a few minutes, and wipe it off. If it doesn't strip the lettering, let it sit a little longer. I was able to do this with only a few dings in the underlying paint. I touched these up with an airbrush and applied a decal with the new number over it.

You can tell it was done if you look closely, but it passes the "6 foot test".

Testors Easy Lift Off -- currently out of stock on Amazon, although other places have it.
https://www.amazon.com/Testors-4333063258-ELO-Remover-8oz/dp/B000BQSKQE

Microbrushes:
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catag...2&u=0&pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber&so=a&man=FLX
 

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Well all this time i've been using the 3 foot test, 6' seems an easier test to pass. I'm switching over to the 6' test right away. Bill
It's all in the perspective! :D :D

I used to agonize over tiny imperfections in paint... until I realized that things that were obvious under 8x magnification are invisible when looked at without magnification.
 
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