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Discussion Starter #1
What a bummer! Setting up the Christmas Village and my fiber optic train station power supply is DOA.

Its output is: 12V AC, 1A 12VA... it has a little halogen bulb inside that rotates through a color wheel. Very pretty when working. LOL

Here's a pic of the power supply



Anyone know where I can get one?

Power Supply.jpg
 

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What a bummer! Setting up the Christmas Village and my fiber optic train station power supply is DOA.

Its output is: 12V AC, 1A 12VA... it has a little halogen bulb inside that rotates through a color wheel. Very pretty when working. LOL

Here's a pic of the power supply



Anyone know where I can get one?

View attachment 516556
you can repair that one. put it in a vice with the prongs facing down and squeeze it, the ultrasonic weld will fracture and you can open the case. you will find a single strand of wire used as a fuse. replace it and close the case with 5 minute epoxy.
 

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Try the repair first but the one Bob linked to woukd be a good choice if its unrepairable. You can get them for a bit less if you are sure of the output plug size.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #5
you can repair that one. put it in a vice with the prongs facing down and squeeze it, the ultrasonic weld will fracture and you can open the case. you will find a single strand of wire used as a fuse. replace it and close the case with 5 minute epoxy.
Where would this strand be? I have opened the case and peeked under the tape for the input and output sides. See attached.

110v.jpg

12v ac.jpg
 

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no idea on that transformer but now thats it open check your input and output voltage you will find the problem. if the secondary is open with no output its trash.
 

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This appears to be just a simple 10:1 transformer. You can check the windings with an ohmmeter. I would guess reading across the input would be around 800-1000 ohms. The output maybe 8-10 ohms. If one reads infinity usually the break in the winding is close to the terminals withing the first turn.

Pete
 

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This appears to be just a simple 10:1 transformer. You can check the windings with an ohmmeter. I would guess reading across the input would be around 800-1000 ohms. The output maybe 8-10 ohms. If one reads infinity usually the break in the winding is close to the terminals withing the first turn.

Pete
The output reads around 10 ohms (it was jumping around a bit) and the input reads open. grrrr
 

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Discussion Starter #9
no idea on that transformer but now thats it open check your input and output voltage you will find the problem. if the secondary is open with no output its trash.
Input Vac = 115v
Output Vac = 0v

Boat anchor.
 

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Good catch Mike. I was only looking at the label and missed the polarity symbol on the plug.

Pete
 

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There's a bunch of them on Amazon and I would guess there are many other sources. Here's one with various barrel plugs so there is sure to be one that fits your needs.

https://www.amazon.com/ZOZO-Regulat...+power+wall+wart+12v+1a&qid=1575150307&sr=8-3
That wall wart, like 99.9% of all aftermarket ones, puts out 12V DC. You need to insure your accessory will work with DC. For example, if there is a transformer inside the the station, you need AC from the wall wart.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That wall wart, like 99.9% of all aftermarket ones, puts out 12V DC. You need to insure your accessory will work with DC. For example, if there is a transformer inside the the station, you need AC from the wall wart.
The spec label indicates the output is 12v AC, not DC.

I ordered a 12v AC-AC power supply rated at 1000mA, with a 5.5mm x 2.1mm connector. BTW, this is the OEM supply that came with the station.
 

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The halogen bulb will work with DC. It's the color rotating wheel that has me concerned, the mechanism. If it's driven by heat from the bulb, DC should work fine. If there's a motor that's a concern. Though many small AC motors are universal (AC or DC) as in the pre-post war Lionel trains.

You could try a quick test using your car battery (motor off). Salvage the low voltage cord and plug from the original transformer (you may need it later anyway) and strip the cut ends for a quick test.
 

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For this test, I would use a current limited supply NoT a car battery! :eek:
John, not everyone has the equipment we have so they have to improvise. I should have added a warning like "quick touch to the battery to begin with and gauge the result before connecting for a longer period" or some such advice/warning.
 

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Mike, an unlimited current source, even for an instant, can do a LOT of damage. If you only have a car battery, put a bulb in series with it. Something like a brake light bulb would be ideal, it will serve as a current limiting device. Of course, for 50 cents, you could have a PTC, or even use a low value fuse.
 

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EBay is a good source for power supply wall worts. I pick up a bunch of them for my diecast display cases and they work great. I paid just a few bucks apiece for each of them.
 
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