Model Train Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So a few months ago, probably closer to a year now, I purchased brand new a paragon 3, 2-8-0 consolidation from Modeltrainstuff.com, as well as a paragon 4 Santa Fe 4000 class Mikado. When I got them, I broke them both in for half an hour, and the Mikado ran flawlessly (even though my track work is mediocre at best) but the consolidation would go a couple of inches, stall, go again, stall, etc. Is there a way I can fix this?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10,162 Posts
is the headlight going out when loco stalls?
If so, very often the reason for stops,stalls and
pauses is loss of electrical contact. Even
tho the loco is new the wheel treads could
be coated with grease, oil or dirt. There also
could be that the metal wipers could have
lost contact with the wheels. or grime could
be between the wiper and the wheels. There
also could be a loose internal connection.

If none of these apply it would be best to
contact the dealer.

Don
 

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
is the headlight going out when loco stalls?
If so, very often the reason for stops,stalls and
pauses is loss of electrical contact. Even
tho the loco is new the wheel treads could
be coated with grease, oil or dirt. There also
could be that the metal wipers could have
lost contact with the wheels. or grime could
be between the wiper and the wheels. There
also could be a loose internal connection.

If none of these apply it would be best to
contact the dealer.

Don
The headlight does go out. I would love to tamper with it, but I would most likely end up killing the thing. What could I do to help with the electrical contact issue?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,835 Posts
I hate to say it, because I have a lot of P's, P2's, Hybrids, and now the same 4000 series Mike, also about a year ago. They all run quite well. I have read of problems with the P3's, and I think, I'm quite certain, the 2-8-0 will be a P3. Sorry, but I'd return it to BLI after they authorize you to return it via email.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
So a few months ago, probably closer to a year now, I purchased brand new a paragon 3, 2-8-0 consolidation from Modeltrainstuff.com, as well as a paragon 4 Santa Fe 4000 class Mikado. When I got them, I broke them both in for half an hour, and the Mikado ran flawlessly (even though my track work is mediocre at best) but the consolidation would go a couple of inches, stall, go again, stall, etc. Is there a way I can fix this?
Did you contact Broadway?
Dirty wheel set?
Intermittent wheel contact with rails, sounds like computerchip resets when tract contact fails, seen this before.
Do you have a roller track bed to test, good tool to have for serious modeller. Works for me, 30 years with DCC.

Sold serviced Broadway Ltd for 25 years!
DCC requires Clean Track & good mechanical rail joints as signal & Power are on the rails! Here Nickle-Silver best.
Multiple electrical track feeds a must from under deck Main Buss!
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
134 Posts
This is the difference between Paragon 3 and 4. The newer Paragon 4's have a builtin "keep alive" and that is why it doesn't stall, like the older Paragon.

Either send it back to BLI, or install a ESU or Soundtraxx decoder with keep alives. I've been converting all of my BLI's to soundtraxx and been very happy with them.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This is the difference between Paragon 3 and 4. The newer Paragon 4's have a builtin "keep alive" and that is why it doesn't stall, like the older Paragon.

Either send it back to BLI, or install a ESU or Soundtraxx decoder with keep alives. I've been converting all of my BLI's to soundtraxx and been very happy with them.
I think I might do that in the near future
 

· Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did you contact Broadway?
Dirty wheel set?
Intermittent wheel contact with rails, sounds like computerchip resets when tract contact fails, seen this before.
Do you have a roller track bed to test, good tool to have for serious modeller. Works for me, 30 years with DCC.

Sold serviced Broadway Ltd for 25 years!
DCC requires Clean Track & good mechanical rail joints as signal & Power are on the rails! Here Nickle-Silver best.
Multiple electrical track feeds a must from under deck Main Buss!
No, I don’t have roller track, and stupidly I didn’t get in touch with BLI when I first noticed the issues. When I made my layout, I assembled the track in the same fashion I would’ve assembled my Bachmann train set whenever I would get that together as a kid. Connect the track, put a wire onto it, and run a train. I probably should’ve looked more into DCC when I was building the layout, because unfortunately, the only wires that are on the entire layout, are on one track, that run to the NCE Powercab chip
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10,162 Posts
A new loco should be capable of running without
a 'stay alive' but it must have good electrical
conductivity. First clean all loco wheels with
alcohol. Then, you may have a few track issues. Run additional
DCC feed wires to a couple of other points on your
layout. Be sure to observe polarity as you do it.
Check the joiners to see that they are tight.
Clean the track rail tops.
Try again. If still fails do as others have advised,
contact dealer.

Don
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,835 Posts
On at least some models of the newer P4's, BLI is moving away from the plug-in tether with multiple pins. I don't know enough to say it's a better decision for them or not, but I can tell you that BLI's steamers are notorious for needing the plug to be fully, and firmly, inserted into the receptacle under the cab....or tender. You need to be sure it is fully home, fully seated, and not backed out a bit on one side of it. This greatly improves the reliability of the BLI steamers over the years. I have had only one QSI failure since beginning with their Paragon Hudson 4-6-4 in 2005. That was on my third purchase, an S1-b Niagara. It now has the upgraded P4 decoder installed with capacitor, installed at trainservicedepot. Great service, and although I miss the QSI whistle, which was amazingly accurate, it's once again a fully dependable steamer. Mind you, I have had very few reliability problems, if any, with my total of seven QSI's and about four P2's, or any of my PCM, Platinum (only the K4 Pacific is in that inventory), and the various hybrid models, of which I have five now.

Check the wipers, clean the tires (mineral spirits or lacquer thinner, please), and make sure that plug is flush and even across the receptacle.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,344 Posts
As I said yesterday I bought the Santa Fe zebra stripe gevo. It was a crib death. Runs for a short term and will all of a sudden go into reverse or make a sound command or turn the smoke on. I also can’t get it to hook up to jmri. If it wasn’t for the paint scheme I would rather go with an athearn genesis.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
No help from me here.
Just want to say; “And yet another BLI with issues right out of the box.” sigh
At $350 to $400 average price. I’d expect perfection in performance even before break- in running.
The only perfection I have ever found, Meccano, Hornby-Dublo runs right out of the box after 70 years.
All die cast, sorry only British outline, what I run. Me old timer at 76, yet Electronics Technologist by profession. Still learning!
Cheers & Best Wishes!
The headlight does go out. I would love to tamper with it, but I would most likely end up killing the thing. What could I do to help with the electrical contact issue?
Check electric plug is inserted all way in.
Inspect the plug wires where they are pressed I to the plug.
Could use a small nail or jewellers screw drve to press wires into the medal insulation piercing contact. Make sure t e connector is on flat hard surface.
This is sometimes required if you disconnect engine & tender.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top