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Brushable Weathering Paints

1K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  RJC 
#1 ·
I am a first-timer in weathering my S gauge rolling stock. I do not want to attempt air-brushing yet so I would like to know if brushable weathering paint is worth it and, if so, what would you recommend?
 
#4 ·
An airbrush will give the best results. I understand you do not want to use an airbrush. Just saying.
I have had an airbrush for 15 years. Never used it. I did not want to do the clean up I guess.
Use acrylic paint and then it is water clean up. You might try chalks. If you do not like I believe you
can just wipe off. When you get it the way you like, something clear needs to be sprayed over it.
Otherwise you will rub it off with use. Don't over do the weathering. Less is more.
 
#6 ·
After a couple of years of just using grey chalk powders for my weathering, I decided to step it up and try other techniques. So I studied the topic quite a bit. My strong recommendation is to start with PanPastels. These can give you great results without a great deal of work. If you want to move on and try other methods great, but many modelers are happy to do all of their weathering with PanPastels. These two kits, a supply of eye shadow applicators, and a flat clear coat such as my favorite Tamiya TS-80 (expensive but the best) and you are ready to go:
  • Greys, Grime & Soot Kit - 30702
  • Rust & Earth Kit - 30701
Here are some useful links:
Two other really easy and quick details to add once you have applied the PanPastels are AK Interactive's Crusted Rust Deposits (just dab on small rust spots with a fine brush such as a 20/0 or thin it with mineral spirits and do light streaks with a flat brush) and MIG's oil & grease stain mixture (after you have finished everything including your clear coat, just dab on with a 20/0 brush in common grease areas like steps, journal boxes, cylinder& pipe connections, hatches, door hinges, etc.).

You can complete a 50' boxcar in 30 minutes using PanPastels + AK's rust deposits + MIG's grease stains. I am happy to share two other steps that I do which create some very nice effects but they take a bit longer because of drying time, so I'll leave it here for now and encourage you to try it out. I guarantee you'll be pretty impressed with your own work.

Here are photos of my AM Northern done solely with PanPastels.
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#9 ·
I have used dry brushing or chalk and even artist charcoal sticks. Done correctly, it all works. If you don't like the results, a soap and water clean up and start again. Just don't forget to spray a dull clear coat over the finished product. As mopac said, less is more. Like mopac, I have a 2 stage air brush I've had for years, still new in the box. Never tried it. I used to paint cars so using it wasn't the challenge. After I got it I just didn't want to do the clean up required thinking back to my car paint guns and the work it takes to thoroughly clean them out. I just think chalk and dry brushing with acrylics are easier. Even after clear coating, you can still add more weathering. Just don't forget to clear coat again.

Kenny
 
#11 ·
..... After I got it I just didn't want to do the clean up required thinking back to my car paint guns and the work it takes to thoroughly clean them out. I just think chalk and dry brushing with acrylics are easier....

Kenny
I agree. I find myself using my airbrush pretty infrequently because I don't want to clean it. I mostly use it for adding a dust coating to the bottom part of weathered cars these days...
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#10 ·
I would still rather practice on a crap car.....washing and cleaning a highly detailed car will likely break stuff off, so I’d rather sacrifice a crap car to sharpen my weathering skills, IMO anyway....
 
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