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· Railroad Tycoon
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Thanks. That was my last non-functional locomotive, so I'm currently out of projects at this time. I did 6 locomotives this past year, so I think I'll slow down a bit. I'll pick up something else to fix or modify this year at some point though more than likely.
Cough, cough, cough.....does it smoke? (y):giggle:
 

· Railroad Tycoon
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$5 for a1/2 gallon of 91% (two 32-oz bottles) at Walmart online. I ordered it with another item so no additional shipping charges. And, IIRC, no sales tax in NJ on isopropyl alcohol.
99% Isopropanol is better but more expensive. Only 1% water.
91% is 9% water.
I didn't know that about the tax, my Walmart shows no pickup and no shipping on that?
But the 99% shows free shipping.
I have 2 gallons of 99% left from hauling it. :)
I only have 2 shot glasses left of 200 proof ethanol, got to get some more of that. That was non-denatured ethanol in sample bottles. They hold the sample for a few months then pour it into a waste drum. I will have to take a ride and pickup a few more bottles.
I never tried the ethanol to take off paint but for hard to get off glue on things like the remains of a bumper sticker it works great.
If I had more I would test it out on a small piece of painted plastic.
You have to watch the ethanol you can buy, it may be denatured with something that will eat plastics. You can buy it, I see it on Walmart, it is denatured with Normal Propyl Acetate.
The acetate would worry me about using on plastics. There is another with Methanol and Isopropanol used as denaturing. Watch what is in it if you buy any.

I am putting up a vinyl fence, on each post and panel they glue on a 12x12 sticker, on the posts a smaller sticker. Why do they do that!
The smaller stickers leave a glue residue that is hard to get off, the ethanol wiped it off easy. I switched to Isopropanol as I wanted to save my ethanol and it worked but took a little more scrubbing.
 

· Railroad Tycoon
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26,364 Posts
Odd, here's the web page for the Toms River vicinity. Mine arrived last week. I checked the order, no tax. Must be in NJ's medicinal category of tax free goods.

I bought 91% to rinse off vinegar and/or Evapo-Rust to restore Super-O track. Either needs to be rinsed after the rust removal dunk. In the past, I rinsed some tinplate in water after paint removal. I watched it re-rust right before my eyes. So I'm thinkng the 91% iso rinse will prevent that. And I am leaning towards vinegar to remove oxidation from the outside rails as well as the copper center rail and pins. Evapo-rust won't remove any oxidation from copper.

View attachment 564864

Vinegar, I hate that smell.
Used to haul Acetic Acid 100%, talk about the stink !
Vinegar has many uses.
 

· Railroad Tycoon
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26,364 Posts
That’s a beautiful engine, Lou. You upgrade the PS1 to PS3? I have picked up a few PS1 engines, electrics and a diesel for kit bashing. Upgrading them might be in their future! I also have a K-Line EP5 I would like to upgrade with ERR components. I need to learn electronics!

Currently, I have a MTH Proto 1 GP7 shell soaking in 91% Isopropyl now. The older paint seems a bit tougher than the more recent paint MTH used.…

Tom
Some take to weathering a Locomotive like his.:oops:
I don't think I could.
Or even pay someone who is good at weathering to do it.

Does it takes a lot of IPA to do the shell?
A gallon or 2? Need a large container to fill?
Do you reuse the old IPA?
 

· Railroad Tycoon
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I used a gallon in a 9x4x12 tub that seals airtight. If I added another quart of isopropyl, it would completely submerge the engine. But it works fine, just turning the shell a few times during the soaks. The smaller tubs I use for cars, hold about a quart of isopropyl. The trick is to get the smallest container the project will fit in.

I have been using the same 1 gallon of isopropyl all summer long…about three months. The old paint settles out and I carefully port out the clean isopropyl into another container and leave the paint sludge behind. The I let the container sit open for a day so that the alcohol evaporates, leaving the sludge behind. Then I just wipe out the waste and put the used isopropyl back in. I can do about 4-5 cars in a tub before I need to remove the sludge…

If you keep the containers sealed, the isopropyl seems to last quite a while. I might throw in a pint of fresh 91 or 99% one in a while, just to add a little kick…

Tom
Yeah, it dissipates quick, Methanol is quicker. But I don't think Methanol will take the paint off.
Use a coffee paper filter to help catch debris when you drain it.
I use one for my used Evapo-rust.
 
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· Railroad Tycoon
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Roll onnnnnn, Big Mama, I like the way you move............
Nice. (y):)
 

· Railroad Tycoon
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First run, just the running gear and sound working. I haven't wired the lights yet as painting comes first. The sound with the little speaker is actually better than I expected.

What, no smoke? :p
That is the fastest thing I have seen run on your table so far. :)
 

· Railroad Tycoon
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I would love to do or get a Minneapolis and St Louis. Good work as always. I think I asked this once before but what is your go to Tuscan Red can spray paint?

Also, I have placed some graffiti decals on one of my auto racks and it was wet transfer. My 1st time, it looked OK. But which do you prefer- wet transfer or dry transfer and how does dry transfer work?
Dry transfer you get a sheet of the decals on it. You place them on whatever you are working on a rub them off with something. I have a piece of scrap plastic that works good. You can use a pencil, and I think they sell something.
Dry transfers ( I think) are better used for buildings and the like.
Wet better for the trains.
The CNJ 1 below is dry transfer.
A search for dry transfers come up with many picks if you do a search.
There are a lot more different subjects to choose from.

Dollhouse Wood Art Window Event
 

· Railroad Tycoon
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Thanks Bryan.

This car, I used Tru-Color Spray Glossy Boxcar Red. It works well, but a primer coat is essential to get even paint coating. The Tru-Color tends to pool in corners if there is no primer.

I use wet decals exclusively as I can ease them into position gradually. I was never very good with dry transfers (I used them on armor models) but there are a couple guys here who get excellent results with dry transfers.

Tom
I like the dry transfers that you can put on an old building, something like this,

I think wet are better for trains, but if you like graffiti they make a selection of those to dry transfer to trains.
Unless your a graffiti artist, rubbing them on is easier. 😎
 

· Railroad Tycoon
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26,364 Posts
Another thing is that with the dry transfer letters is that they come off easily if you don't like the result.
If you place one on crooked, just erase it and try again.
 

· Railroad Tycoon
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26,364 Posts
That sounds like a good strategy. I think I just never had the patience for dry transfers. I would definitely try them on buildings when I get to that stage.

I don’t add graffiti to my cars other than hobo or car inspector “chalk scribbles” on occasion. I wouldn’t mind finding those in dry transfer form, as they are not really oriented to any particular position.

I like the concrete shanty. Is that a scratch build or a kit?

Tom
The link for him in my Shanty thread does not work anymore, it was a kit from, ( copy and paste) Andre owns River Leaf Models and like many in the Model Train Vendor world he also has a full time job as an Electrical/Mechanical engineer working in the 3D printing trade.

I don't know if he changed his site or what, he has building kits too, or had building kits.


 
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