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I had been having some difficulty with the Roco Br.151 I bought on consignment back in December.

I found out that the problem was due to a intermediate gear slipping out of the hole for the gear axle. Upon further investigation I found out the the truck frame is cracked at the point where the gear sits in the bogie frame and the crack extends to a weaker point in the bogie where the center wheel set is located.

Under load this was causing the gear to slip out of its mounting hole and then causing the center wheel set to try and ride up higher in the bogie.

So now it sits in front of the maintenance facility waiting on parts from Germany. Parts were only about €25, and that included both front and rear bogie frames and two bottom cover plates for the trucks, and a set of ten traction tires. Of course, shipping was as much as the parts total, but I'll have it running again shortly with two brand new trucks.



 

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Got the GS6 done. Used the same guy for the decals as I did for my ATSF 3464 Hudson project. Has PS3 with a quillable whistle.

20200406_120924.jpg
20200406_120934.jpg
20200406_121050.jpg
 

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Thanks. Next project I'd like to tackle, if I could get either cheap, is a MTH Premier Santa Fe 2900 class Northern or a Lionel TMCC Southern Pacific AC9. I'd have to get the AC9 stupid cheap as I'd want to convert the tender to a later oil burner.
 

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I am on the lookout for a scale Big Boy with oil tender. Prices are nuts on complete ones now, even PS1. No rush though as I have a ton of other projects.

Pete
 

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I've noticed since 4014 toured last year Big Boy prices have been nuts. I've seen Premier PS1 models going for $800.
 

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I have a Marx pre war Commodore Vanderbilt that I paid $5 for at our local Train & Toy show. This CV ran in reverse only but ran pretty good. I fixed the reverse only problem by resoldering the E-Unit properly. I also cleaned up the E-Unit as well as the armature & brushes with named brand contact cleaner. Lubed the rest of the motor with the correct lubricants. The 80 something year old motor runs like new now. The old original CV Engine paint was in really ratty shape as well as the paint/rust on some Marx NYC tenders I already had. So I decided to repaint them all. The first step I took was to disassemble everything then media blast the paint & rust away. The next step was to primer all the bare metal with Rustoleum flat black primer. I also cleaned up/polished the side rods with a Dremel tool powered wire brush. I have not decided on the final motif for the Engine /tender at this time. I am leaning towards a WW II Army Olive Drab Livery at this point but that may change. I like to look at decals in person before I buy. However with this Corona Virus mess and the Government Edicts now in force it is now very hard to do business in person now a days. I just may leave this CV flat black & ink stamp a number on the side and run just like that. Please excuse the order of the pictures. Seems that the MTF software decided the attachment's order for me.

SIDE NOTE pictures downloaded from my LG Phoenix 4 cell phone. Not bad for my first try at downloading.

LATER

MEDIA BLASTED RESULTS -- PRIMERED RESULTS-- A RATTY START
MARX CV MEDIA BLASTED.jpg

MARX CV PRIMERED 4.jpg
MARX ORIGINAL ROUGH 2.jpg
 

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Spent the first half of the afternoon suntanning with a book on a chase lounge chair. Then ate some charbroiled burgers from my wood fired BBQ.

The second half ... I cut a 2' x 4' x 1/8" hardboard into track ties to augment the ties on O-27 tubular track. After accounting for leftover end pieces and the saw blades' kerf, I figure I got about 800 ties out of a theoretical 1,152.

Ties.JPG
 

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How many track ties to a foot of tubular track? A 69.4% completion rate for sure. Not to bad. Time now for desert & maybe something cool to drink. After all Model Railroading can such hard work.
 

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How many track ties to a foot of tubular track? A 69.4% completion rate for sure. Not to bad. Time now for desert & maybe something cool to drink. After all Model Railroading can such hard work.
The hardboard cost $4.97 at Home Depot. I'll need approximately 350 ties (see below). So the yield rate was immaterial. And a lucky MTF member may get a bunch of ties for the cost of shipping :cautious:

An O-27 straight or curve track requires 6 extra ties each. Three between each of the end ties and the middle tie. I'll be using 10 Marx O-34 curves (wide radius curves in the O-27 profile). They, require 8 ties plus a tie between tracks. So 9 per track. The track planning S/W provides track counts. Do the math and le voilà.

An MTF member posted he put a dab of white glue on the layout, positioned the tie under the track and let it dry. I'd rather attach the ties to the bottom of the track. I need to spray paint the O-34 track including the added ties, maybe all the track.. My first though was hot glue. But after dry positioning a few ties on some test tract, I realize you need to reposition several once you step back and have a look. Hot glue sets too quickly for that. My next thought is two-part epoxy. But I'd love to find a strong, one-part glue that will adhere to metal and set. And I need to create a reference sheet, a jig or something to fix the positioning while gluing ... or go nuts:)

540636
 

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Been working on my stockpile of rolling stock. The yellow MDT reefers were undecorated Red Caboose kits. Most lettering was done with old CDS transfers but only had enough good ones to do three sides. The last side with Microscale decals. The white MDT reefer was a decorated Red Caboose kit so it only had to be assembled. The silver WP Ice Reefers were undecorated Atlas cars. I was going to add them to my MDT fleet but realized painting them would be more effort than I was willing to put into them, sides one color, roof and ends another then all the details black. Would have been easy if it was kit in pieces but not assembled as these were so I discovered WP had these in all silver including the details. Tichy had the decals in stock so thats what they became.

540678

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Pete
 

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Probably almost too small to mention, but I dropped a CC-M into my K-line RS-3 to give it cruise. Very nice unit with the addition of cruise control. Since I only paid $125 NIB at York last fall for a couple of these, I figured a few more bucks for cruise wouldn't be too big a deal.

I wish I had bought all four of them, he actually had two more. Pretty nice little locomotives, LED lighting, separately lighted number boards, smoke.

540692
 

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The hardboard cost $4.97 at Home Depot. I'll need approximately 350 ties (see below). So the yield rate was immaterial. And a lucky MTF member may get a bunch of ties for the cost of shipping :cautious:

An O-27 straight or curve track requires 6 extra ties each. Three between each of the end ties and the middle tie. I'll be using 10 Marx O-34 curves (wide radius curves in the O-27 profile). They, require 8 ties plus a tie between tracks. So 9 per track. The track planning S/W provides track counts. Do the math and le voilà.

An MTF member posted he put a dab of white glue on the layout, positioned the tie under the track and let it dry. I'd rather attach the ties to the bottom of the track. I need to spray paint the O-34 track including the added ties, maybe all the track.. My first though was hot glue. But after dry positioning a few ties on some test tract, I realize you need to reposition several once you step back and have a look. Hot glue sets too quickly for that. My next thought is two-part epoxy. But I'd love to find a strong, one-part glue that will adhere to metal and set. And I need to create a reference sheet, a jig or something to fix the positioning while gluing ... or go nuts:)

View attachment 540636
Would it be any advantage to spike them?
 

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Would it be any advantage to spike them?
Not sure if I understand your suggestion. If you mean adding spikes as detail, I'm won't be striving for that level of "authenticity". If you mean "nailing them down to the layout", I'd want to attach them to the bottom of the track as I mentioned.

My current thought is to create one of each track type using best efforts. Then use it as a reference or make a jig from it. Maybe a mold by pressing a a finished piece into mortar or plaster of Paris.
 

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My thought was spiking rail to tie like the rigid Ross track.I don't
I don't know if your ties are soft enough to push a brad or spike into or not. Setting up a jig and predrilling each would be time consuming.

540726


Ross Custom Switches 1/4 spikes 1000 @ $15.00
 

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