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Sound like decal bonder is a key ingredient. I will get some along with some other paper. Thanks for the tips.

Pete
 

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.... Inkjets are better for dark colors, yellows and lighter colors are not saturated enough. A higher end printer might do better. ...

James
I presume you realize their are settings to control the amount of ink laid down by the printer (paper type, print quality, etc.).
 

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Well one positive for me is I got my old Hudson working yesterday. I had another old steam engine with a missing front dome plate and I took a screw out of one of its drivers. Not sure if it’s going to hold in the broken bushing, but it is working at least now. Ran it all day today.
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Fedex office/print stores will print decal sheets. They require decal film for laser jet printers. The high end printers they use are better than home printers. Be forewarned-it’s not cheap, but if you have an original, hard to find decal or sheet, such as many old Microscale sets that are irreplaceable, you can get a “copy” to use and keep the original. In my case, I needed several sets.

Microsol used to sell liquid decal Film. It prevenTed old decals from coming apart when wet. Works perfect on home made decals Too. I still use it, apply with a brush or air brush to decal sheets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #385 ·
86T, the decal idea sounds interesting. I am looking for Erie O scale steam engine decals. They are made in HO but not O. I am thinking they could be scaled up from the Microscale HO set. Would the printer, FedEx need a true color copy to work from or could they use black and white diagrams and print the proper color for the decals? In this case it would be a deep yellow...

I’ve been using K4 decals for freight cars. Some are great but some are a bit thin and not quite opaque. I did this Erie 40’ boxcar repainted from a MTH Premier York commemorative car. The decals were a bit thin and the car ended up having a pre-weathered appearance...

Tom




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K,
A true color copy would work best. If black and white, they’d need to do some experimenting-They can match any color shade if you have an example or original.

in my case, I just wanted a copy of an original so they scanned and printed it.
 

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I picked up my 4th MTH Premier Santa Fe 3460 class Hudson back in October. It was mint but missing boards and the motor. All wiring was there. I installed a ball bearing, rare earth magnet, 9234 Pittman. I tracked down a set of PS3 boiler and tender boards and installed them today. It's fully functional and runs very well.



 

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Lou,
Your work is always impressive, great job once again!
Thanks. That was my last non-functional locomotive, so I'm currently out of projects at this time. I did 6 locomotives this past year, so I think I'll slow down a bit. I'll pick up something else to fix or modify this year at some point though more than likely.
 

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Thanks. That was my last non-functional locomotive, so I'm currently out of projects at this time. I did 6 locomotives this past year, so I think I'll slow down a bit. I'll pick up something else to fix or modify this year at some point though more than likely.
Cough, cough, cough.....does it smoke? (y):giggle:
 

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Latest project was a motor swap on my brand new (2019) Legacy ATSF Northern. These have a tendency to nuke the smoke units because of a improperly placed thermistor. While I was in the locomotive correcting the position of the thermistor on both smoke units I decided to further void the warranty by removing the crappy Canon motor and replacing it with a Pittman 9433. All my Premier steam locomotives have Pittman motors (9234 or 9434s) so I wanted to make the motor in this Legacy Northern at least as good. Runs great as well.

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Discussion Starter · #392 ·
A couple new repaint projects I just completed. Both are Weaver cars stripped and repainted with Scalecoat II paint. They are decaled with K4 decal sets. I added metal trucks and couplers in addition to interior weights, so they are nicely weighted...

Tom
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Beautiful work again Tom. Looks like K4 is expanding their line. What did you use to strip the Weaver cars?

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #394 · (Edited)
Thanks Pete.

I used 70% isopropyl alcohol On the steel car. It was painted for some weird Christmas/radio DJ scheme. I picked up four of them for $20. No trucks, but they stripped easily.

The wood car was undecorated to begin with.

I am corresponding with K-4 now about doing some Arcade and Attica decals. We are looking into doing an A&A 40‘ Boxcar in the later baby blue scheme...

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #395 ·
Car shop is busy.

Doing a 40’ steel boxcar and a 40’ outside braced boxcar…decals next.

Stripping a gondola that will eventually be a WAG car if I can get the decals to fit.

The Cambria and Indiana hopper is waiting for a dull coat finish and then reassembly.

Tom




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Nice work Tom. I've also used the K4 decals. My experience s that their decals need to be applied to a gloss surface-I tried applying them to a satin surface and they didn't look to good as they had the silvery background. Another company that has decals I've used with good results is CMR Products. They have quite a variety including more modern RR roadnames.

A question. When using the Scalecoat paint, are you using their primer first before applying the color coat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #397 ·
Hi Nick.

I give the cars a coat of gloss finish before I decal with K4 products. It seems to get rid of the silvering. The satin finish of the Scalecoat paint is iffy when applying decals. I also use Walthers Solvaset. Even applying decals to the satin finish, I use the Solvaset under the decal when I apply it. I have had good results with that.

I started using Tamiya grey primer on my projects. It makes a big difference, giving a uniform finish to the plastic before applying the Scalecoat II.

I used CMR a decals on my locomotives, mainly my Bethlehem Steel railroad repaints. They are good decals too. They offer roads K4 doesn’t sell. I also use Tichy but they can be a bit temperamental and require a bit of effort to get the looking good.

Tom
 

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Just looked at CMR for the first time. Impressive what they have for the (local to me) roads. I was surprised to see they also do Union Pacific. When I was looking for decals for my FEF I was told by two custom makers that UP licensing requirements were a hassle they didn’t want to deal with.

Pete
 

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Good Morning Tom,

Thanks for the info. I also use the Solvaset for getting the decals to settle into place. I'll try the Tamiya primer on a couple of undecorated Weaver hoppers I'll be custom painting/lettering in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #400 ·
Nick,

I do encounter difficulties now and then. I am figuring that I need to use Tamyia primer with Scalecoat II paint and Scalecoat II gloss coating in that order to get decals to set well.

I used some Humbrol gloss finish and started decaling a boxcar in an Ann Arbor scheme. The decals seemed to have an odd reaction to the Humbrol gloss. I am going to let them set up and then hit them with a gloss finish and see if that fixes the problem. Otherwise, I strip the car again and start over!

Tom
 
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