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Just a quick follow up on my tank train.

I finally finished the 10 Shermans. They were all given a fresh coat of Olive Drab and given US Army serial numbers. In addition, canvas covers were added to the guns, machine gun ports and radio antenna base. They are all Corgi 1:50 tanks.

This is one heavy train!

Tom
Yep.

Diecast military vehicle loads make for a heavy train. My military train usually runs between 12 and 15 flatcars and I notice the weight when I pull it along by hand to couple it. A single two motor diesel pulls the train along no problem on a level track, but I haven’t tried it on inclines. Some steamers have a problem getting it started though even on level track.

I measured the weight of a few of my military flat cars to compare it with the NMRA recommended weight for 14” O scale car of 19 oz.

Menards 14” flat car – 9.5 oz

Menards 14” flat car with 2 diecast centurion tacks – 17.5 oz

Menards 14” flat car with 2 halftracks – 21.5 oz

Menards 14” flat car with 2 plastic Tamiya Sherman tanks – 15.5 oz

Menards 14” flat car with 2 Deuce and a half– 20.5 oz



MTH Premier 14” flat car – 14.5 oz

MTH Premier 14” flat car with 2 Wolverine tank destroyers – 26.5 oz

MTH Premier 14” flat car with 2 Solido 105mm howitzers – 24.5 oz

I thought they would all be well over the NMRA recommendation and also found it interesting that the MTH flat cars were much heavier than the Menards cars. I had to weight everything separately because my scale only goes to 18 oz. I thought the vehicles would be heavier too, but when I lifted them, they didn’t seem to have the heft of solid diecast. I suspect that (aside from the canons), the “diecast” models are at least partly made of plastic.

Maybe the Corgi Tanks are all diecast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #442 ·
The Corgi tanks I used are all diecast except for the road wheels and tracks. The hulls and turrets are cast metal...

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #443 · (Edited)
My latest paint project. A Weaver 40’ boxcar I stripped and repainted with Scalecoat II. I decaled it with K4 decals…

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I also painted a couple L&NE coal hoppers, again with Scalecoat II and K4 decals…
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Tom
 

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Here's the beginning of turning a Premier USRA Mikado into something resembling an ATSF 3129 class Mikado. It won't be anywhere near exact, but I'm adding/modifying enough of it with some PSC parts to at least give it an ATSF look. I'm attacking the tender first. Preliminary mockups have started.

20210629_170756.jpg
20210629_170832.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #445 · (Edited)
Cool. I have a Lionel Texas and Pacific Junior Mikado I did some work on, mainly moving the bell. I wanted to convert the tender from coal to oil. I had no idea where to start. This post about your conversion should be helpful!
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Tom
 

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Always wanted one of these with a disc driver, so today I made the swap.

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The finished swap:

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Here's some pictures of the process:

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Next I'll move the bell to the boiler and paint. I recently sourced decal so I can finish this project. I may swap to a large tender I picked up also.
image0copy_LI.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #447 ·
Very handsome locomotive.

I am too chicken to paint brass! Is the engine a certain prototype? The disc driver (Scullin?) certainly adds visual interest to the engine.

Tom
 

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Do you have quartering tool? If so which one? I just picked up a NWSL but haven’t had a chance to use it yet. Also an old iron designs for smaller drivers.

Pete
 

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Do you have quartering tool? If so which one? I just picked up a NWSL but haven’t had a chance to use it yet. Also an old iron designs for smaller drivers.

Pete
Pete, I do, but I didn't need it for this project. I used disc drivers from a different version of this locomotive.

My quartering tool appears to be a home made version, I purchased from a friend who didn't know anything about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #453 ·
Nice kits. I have a few Intermountain cars. I bought a couple already built too. I like their tank cars.

I am repainting a set of MTH Madison cars for the Erie railroad. I wanted an older scheme set to go with my K5 Pacific. These are older cars with no interiors, frosted silhouette windows and incandescent bulbs inside. Missing a few details, which are being replaced. They are ex-Santa Fe.

Erie Green Scalecoat II paint with decals from Primemover Decals via the ELHS…

Tom
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Haven’t built an IM tank car but will keep watch for one.

Nice paint work on the MTH model. Been using Scalecoat recently, really like it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #456 · (Edited)
Thanks 86! I painted the roof after I took the picture. More to follow…

Lou, great work on the caboose. It looks like brass! I like the lighting effects. Sharp.

Two more boxcars for my fleet…
Both MTH commemorative cars I stripped and repainted. The Grand Trunk Western car is Scalecoat II Boxcar Red #3 and the Indiana Harbor Belt car is plain Boxcar red. Both decaled with K4 decals…
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Tom
 

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I am impressed with decal work you guys do. Decal film is invisible.
As for kit building, I did quite a few kits during lockdown. I still have quite a few left to do. During my time in HO pretty much every piece of rolling stock and structures were kit built. I would much rather build something that buy it and plop it down on the layout.

Pete
 

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I am impressed with decal work you guys do. Decal film is invisible.
As for kit building, I did quite a few kits during lockdown. I still have quite a few left to do. During my time in HO pretty much every piece of rolling stock and structures were kit built. I would much rather build something that buy it and plop it down on the layout.

Pete
I used K4 decals on that Rock Island caboose. I'm not all that impressed. The decals are thick and even after 7 (!) applications of Microsol the decal film didn't completely disappear/snuggle down into the body detail. I usually use Microscale decals because I can make the film completely disappear with proper application and Microsol. The numbers on this tender are Microscale, the "SANTA FE" is factory Lionel printing. The decal film from the Microscale numbers is invisible, even at this angle.

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Is a plastic MTH Premier caboose. It's based on the UP/SP CA-1 design.
And what a lovely job MTH did on the CA-1 caboose! Beautiful model. Converted many to 2R & next to my OMI brass CA-1s, it more than holds it’s own. Even better, MTH made several different versions of the road I model.

Pete & Lou,

I use Microset on thin/thick decals (Microscale, Champ) & then Solvaset on thick film. Hardly use Solvaset anymore. I have a theory, no way to prove it, but I believe it’s the gloss I use (Future floor polish, it’s a different brand now). Same bottle for 25+ years and never have paint compatibility, cracking issues, etc many others experience. Plus, you can’t see the ”background“ film ever. Love the “painted“ decal look on a model.
 
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