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Discussion Starter · #461 ·
Here is the first Erie coach I have finished. The painting and decaling was simple. The disassembly and reassembly took the most time. I installed the windows, hung the doors and put the body together.

I have five more cars to do…two baggage cars, two coaches and an observation car. The observation will be done in the two tone Erie green colors and numbered as one of Erie’s business cars…likely #4.

Here is the finished coach. You may see some water droplets here and there as I just wiped the car down to remove the work dust…

Tom

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Discussion Starter · #463 ·
Thanks 86!

Second coach started! Also, I have a unlettered Atlas baggage car that is painted green from the factory. It is very close to the Erie green I am using, but just a shade “greener”. I am debating whether I should take it apart and repaint it in the darker Erie green Or just decal it the way it is…

Tom
 

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Good Evening Everyone,

Several months back, I started the Lionel paint fiasco thread about the Texas & Pacific 4-6-0 with it's bright mint green boiler paint. My original intention with this engine purchase was to re-letter/re-number it into a Monongahela Railway engine as it had details I was looking for(high mounted headlight, air pump position, bell position, etc). I did not however, plan on repainting the boiler which would involve MUCH extra work. Well, I bit the bullet, got to work and finally several months later I finished up the project.

After separating the boiler/cab from the chassis, I first removed all the factory lettering/numbering from both the engine and tender including the headlight and numberplate on the front of the smokebox. This was done using Cutex nail polish remover(98% acetone) and Q-tips working both gently and quickly and not letting the remover sit on the paint surface too long. With practice, the lettering/numbering can be removed without damaging the base color paint underneath. The boiler itself was a major PITA! I removed all the separately applied brass details(bell, whistle, steam lines, air pump, generator). These items, except for the air pump, were all painted the mint green boiler color. I repainted them satin black and re-installed everything back onto the boiler once the boiler was repainted. The boiler itself required a large chunk of time to mask off all the black/silver areas that were not being repainted.(smokebox, running boards, cab front, steam & sand domes, Pop-off valves shroud and the handrails). I used different widths of both Tamiya and green Frog masking tape along with MR Hobby liquid mask. I sprayed the boiler with rattlecan Tamiya TS78 field gray 2 directly over the Lionel mint green and I was happy with the finish. The paint went on very smooth & even. The cylinder/steam chest area on the chassis that was mint green was sprayed with rattlecan Tamiya TS29 semi gloss black which is a near perfect match for the Lionel black paint. After painting, I re-assembled all the parts. All the lettering/numbering was done using Woodland Scenics RR Roman gold. I'm happy with the result. While the boiler may be still a bit too bright for some, it's a lot better than that Easter egg mint green!

One final thing. The back of the tender shows the coal/water capacity. I didn't forget the letter s on the gal and ton abbreviations. Some railroads occasionally marked tenders this way and the Monongahela was one of them.
 

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Fantastic job!

I remember that thread after you mentioned it. You do quality work and glad you’re pleased now.

I’m hoping to have a painted locomotive to share late next week.

Glad to see folks modeling and building stuff!
 

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Good Evening Everyone,

Guys, thanks for the compliments, I appreciate it. Always a good feeling when lemonade is made from lemons. There's a lot of talented people on this forum and I always enjoy viewing their efforts and picking up their knowledge/little tricks along the way.
 

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Well I managed to turn a MTH Premier USRA Mikado tender into a decent Santa Fe oil fired tender (was originally a Nickle Plate coal tender). Now on to "Santa Fe izing" the locomotive. I'll be adding Santa Fe style number boards, bell, and headlight to it in an effort to make it kinda close to a Santa Fe 3129 class Mikado.

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Discussion Starter · #470 ·
How did you fabricate the tank top and what detail part did you use for the fill hatch on the oil tank?

Tom
 

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How did you fabricate the tank top and what detail part did you use for the fill hatch on the oil tank?

Tom
Tank top is some ABS plastic sheet about 1/8" thick. Rivets are Archer rivet decals, handrail is wire, oil fill hatch is a PSC brass part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #474 ·
Archer makes 3D louvers too. I have used them in a couple Diesel engine projects. Great stuff!

Thanks Lou. I want to convert a T&P Mikado tender to an oil tender...

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #476 ·
That’s an interesting question. Lou could probably answer that better than I. Here is a slug unit I kitbashed. I used the Archer louvers on the side of the hood at the ends. I applied them after I painted the hood…

Tom

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Curious-have you ever applied another decal over the Archer rivets? Thanks.
I have not but it is easy to do if you follow the instructions with the rivets. The rivets are designed to go under paint. Basically how you apply them is put primer on the model, apply the rivet decals where you want them, lay your paint over the rivet decals, apply lettering decals, then clear coat everything. So the rivet decals are sealed in before the lettering decals are even applied. The rivet decals will not stick to bare plastic or metal, only to primer or paint. The rivets themselves are actually a dark brown color, so you have to paint over them anyway.
 
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