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...My “paint oven” is a large METAL rural mailbox (~$17), a switched light socket (~$5), and a 300 watt clear light bulb. Works really well & simple.
That's a twist. Another member used a cardboard box with a 100 W bulb.

Do you have any idea of the steady state temp?
 

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I have new EOB firmware I need to complete testing in both my Kline Berkshires that have EOB installed. Hoping for good slow speed operation without the whine present in most EOB installs.

I also have to pull the tops engine shell and tender shell on my MTH L4a Mohawk and take some pics for Bruk. Bruk needs to know what 3D printed brackets he'll need and to generate a parts list for the 50% Lionel parts sale. This winter he'll be converting it to Legacy. So fall is here, time to get back to trains.
 

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That's a twist. Another member used a cardboard box with a 100 W bulb.

Do you have any idea of the steady state temp?
I’ve never checked with temperature gun, not sure. Hot but won’t damage solder joints. You don’t want to touch for a few minutes after light is off.

I use a 300W plain old clear incandescent light bulb. Yeah, they still make those, haha.

I typically bake an hour, sometimes I get busy and it’s 3-5 hours, it won’t hurt anything and there’s no “standard “ bake time. I consider it “done” when no longer tacky.

It’s super simple and works great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #526 ·
Just to be clear, we are talking metal body locomotives here, right? I don’t think putting a plastic shell in a heated space would work out, but then again I haven’t seen everything…

Tom
 

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Just to be clear, we are talking metal body locomotives here, right? I don’t think putting a plastic shell in a heated space would work out, but then again I haven’t seen everything…

Tom
Tom,

Yes, though plastic wouldn’t melt, it‘s not hot enough.
 

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Video billboard car (improved widescreen high def version of the Lionel Visionline LCD billboard car) is still in progress, but the prototype works well. I'm planning on using black EVA foam to replace the plastic sheet cover between the 2 screens to and make speaker grills at the 2 ends of the cars.
Screen X2: 12.6" NV126B5M-N41 1920X515 LCD Screen Outline Size 315.61mm×94mm×5.3mm(H×V×D)
Media player module Micca Speck G2 MP4 module with IR remote
565729

Main regulator to provide 12V source DROK DC-DC converter input voltage range is DC 9~36V (12V); output voltage is DC 12V; output current is 5A; output power is 60W
Basically, here is the power system in a nutshell. The pickup rollers are connected to a 6A bridge rectifier and 1000uf 35V capacitor producing the main unregulated DC source. That in turn is fed into the DROK brand regulator that is both a boost and buck regulator to maintain 12V with roughly 5A surge capacity. That then goes to a 3A diode feeding a bank of 10 each 2.7V super capacitors with 2.4V zener diodes across them to prevent overcharge (2 banks in parallel, 5 caps in series 2.4Vx5=12V) and given the drop loss across the input diode we maintain under that magical 12V limit. Then a small 5V switching regulator is powering the media player module, and an HDMI splitter is jammed in there to display the image on both LCDs.
All said, this is an expensive project, but to my knowledge, I have not seen anyone do something on this scale with screens on both sides, let alone the screen size and resolution. The crazy part is, you can buy every single part on Amazon and copy this.
$246 for the screens, $16 for the main regulator, $12 in super capacitors, $40 for the media player, and then in cables, an HDMI splitter and 2 regular to micro size HDMI cables $29, then 2 right angle plugs to make the cable system plug into the media player $10, not to mention a used MTH flatcar from Trainz.
The super caps let it run for at least 10-15 seconds with both screens on through a power drop, and then the screens drop out first leaving the media player still running (5v) for a few seconds longer so it should not have droppout problems running through switches and so forth. Power draw at 18V once the caps charge up is under 1A, and during charging up from power on, about 3A absolute max.
 

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Video billboard car (improved widescreen high def version of the Lionel Visionline LCD billboard car) is still in progress, but the prototype works well. I'm planning on using black EVA foam to replace the plastic sheet cover between the 2 screens to and make speaker grills at the 2 ends of the cars.
Screen X2: 12.6" NV126B5M-N41 1920X515 LCD Screen Outline Size 315.61mm×94mm×5.3mm(H×V×D)
Media player module Micca Speck G2 MP4 module with IR remote View attachment 565729
Main regulator to provide 12V source DROK DC-DC converter input voltage range is DC 9~36V (12V); output voltage is DC 12V; output current is 5A; output power is 60W
Basically, here is the power system in a nutshell. The pickup rollers are connected to a 6A bridge rectifier and 1000uf 35V capacitor producing the main unregulated DC source. That in turn is fed into the DROK brand regulator that is both a boost and buck regulator to maintain 12V with roughly 5A surge capacity. That then goes to a 3A diode feeding a bank of 10 each 2.7V super capacitors with 2.4V zener diodes across them to prevent overcharge (2 banks in parallel, 5 caps in series 2.4Vx5=12V) and given the drop loss across the input diode we maintain under that magical 12V limit. Then a small 5V switching regulator is powering the media player module, and an HDMI splitter is jammed in there to display the image on both LCDs.
All said, this is an expensive project, but to my knowledge, I have not seen anyone do something on this scale with screens on both sides, let alone the screen size and resolution. The crazy part is, you can buy every single part on Amazon and copy this.
$246 for the screens, $16 for the main regulator, $12 in super capacitors, $40 for the media player, and then in cables, an HDMI splitter and 2 regular to micro size HDMI cables $29, then 2 right angle plugs to make the cable system plug into the media player $10, not to mention a used MTH flatcar from Trainz.
The super caps let it run for at least 10-15 seconds with both screens on through a power drop, and then the screens drop out first leaving the media player still running (5v) for a few seconds longer so it should not have droppout problems running through switches and so forth. Power draw at 18V once the caps charge up is under 1A, and during charging up from power on, about 3A absolute max.
Video linkhttps://youtu.be/DXOEvbLfObk
 

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Very cool project Jet but not steam era so I will only watch. That would turn heads at a train show for sure. Keep up the good work.

My current project is taming a Williams diecast Hudson. With a 9:1 gearbox they want to leap from the start and then just run faster. Stay tuned.

Pete
 

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Very cool project Jet but not steam era so I will only watch. That would turn heads at a train show for sure. Keep up the good work.

My current project is taming a Williams diecast Hudson. With a 9:1 gearbox they want to leap from the start and then just run faster. Stay tuned.

Pete
I'm 100% with you and looking forward to any solution on a Williams Hudson. I've stayed away from buying them since the stock motor also runs hot and a local member has been through a few motors.
Williams diesels is easy, just wire in series, but those single motor steam with basically the wrong motor winding and poor gearing are needing a solution. Again, I know exactly what you are facing and why you would want to do that project
 

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Just to be clear, we are talking metal body locomotives here, right? I don’t think putting a plastic shell in a heated space would work out, but then again I haven’t seen everything…

Tom
I think plastic might be OK up to 150F especially styrene. I wouldn’t try hotter than that. Just to be clear heat only helps dry most paint faster. Pretty sure only a few types of enamels actually get harder with heat. Lacquers and acrylics not so much.

Pete
 

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On my semi scale Williams steamers I use a current inrush limiter, basically a negative temperature coefficient thermistor in series with the motor. It pretty much eliminates the jump start but does not limit top speed.
Current project is a 773 type Hudson that comes with a 550 Mabuchi. I trying a couple of 12v 2000 RPM motors which look like will do the trick. Good low end torque is giving speeds close to TMCC Hudsons at the first speed step. I am hoping to use a slightly smaller motor which will allow fitting it closer the gearbox and get it out of the cab so I can install a proper backhead.

Pete
 

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Main regulator to provide 12V source DROK DC-DC converter input voltage range is DC 9~36V (12V); output voltage is DC 12V; output current is 5A; output power is 60W .
Do you have a link to that product? That would avoid using two modules to get 12 V DC from varying track voltages.
 

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Painted black the conduit, railings, number boards, marker lights, hinges. Painted the bell, whistle & pop off valves too. Since pictures it’s in gloss coat ready for decals tomorrow.

565764

565765
 

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Do you have a link to that product? That would avoid using two modules to get 12 V DC from varying track voltages.
 

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Discussion Starter · #537 ·
Added two new boxcars to the fleet. Both are MTH Premier “MTH Seminar” cars I picked up cheap.

Stripped with isopropyl and repainted with Scalecoat II Boxcar Red 2. I used newer K4 decals on these cars. The decal paper seems a bit thicker than previous productions. They still came out okay.

Both cars were retrucked with MTH Friction bearing trucks...

Tom


565813


565814
 

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Discussion Starter · #539 ·
You ever thought about selling your custom jobs?
Sort of. My work isn’t really up to the point where I would feel comfortable selling it. There may be super minor imperfections that I am aware of, that makes me hesitant to offer items for sale.

I used to paint HO for a club layout. Doing 4 or 5 engines at once was kind of boring. It always went well, but that was 25 years ago…

I may entertain some requests soon. But please keep in mind I am no Harry Heike or Malcolm Byrd!

Tom
 
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