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Discussion Starter · #561 · (Edited)
Nice locomotive. I need to learn electronics. Too much good stuff getting past me.

Well, here are two cars I just finished. Both are Weaver cars. The Penn Central 40’ steel boxcar was painted for some Christmas scheme. I stripped it with isopropyl. It was a bear to strip. The Weaver paint is pretty tough. Scalecoat II paint and K4 decals…
Gas Rectangle Engineering Rolling Wood


Train Rolling stock Track freight car Railway


The second car, a Weaver 40’ Outside braced boxcar was a undecorated 2 rail car. I primed and painted it with Scalecoat II paint. The decals are also K4 decals.
Rolling stock freight car Train Track Railroad car


Automotive tire Wood Bumper Rolling stock Railway


I finished both cars with Scalecoat II Flat finish. It worked well, so it will be part of my process from now on. Both cars needed three rail trucks and couplers, so I installed Weaver diecast trucks and couplers with friction bearings

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #563 ·
Yeah, and the rest of us need to learn painting premier custom cars :)
Heh, that was self taught since I was a little kid! Tanks and planes taught me well!

Tom
 

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I thought I would post a little update on trying to tame a Williams Diecast Hudson. I first tried a Buehler 12v 2000 rpm motor. On the rollers it looked good running about the same speed as a TMCC Hudson on step one. This with an ERR Cruise Commander. As soon as put the shell on I found out that motor didn't have enough torque to move the engine off a stop despite different settings and tuning the gearbox and chassis for zero binding.
Next was this 8000 series Pittman. The smaller size let me fit it closer to the gearbox once I removed some metal from the shell. This will start the engine and move some heavy cars but at the first speed step its just as fast as the 555 Mabuchi this engine came with.

I have come to the conclusion the only way to give slow starts is to replace the gear box. This one is 9:1. NWSL makes a couple that are 23:1 and 25:1 respectively. I just have to decide if this engine is worth the investment.

The plus of the small motor is I can now install a backhead and cab rear with some added detail.

This is how much smaller the Pittman is and how much closer it is compared with the Mabuchi now located over its mounting points.

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Camera lens Vehicle


Shell now milled out.

Bumper Fixture Gas Wood Machine


Cab now well clear of the motor.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Saw Bumper Gas


Pete
 

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I have come to the conclusion the only way to give slow starts is to replace the gear box. This one is 9:1. NWSL makes a couple that are 23:1 and 25:1 respectively. I just have to decide if this engine is worth the investment.
Pete
Thanks for the update and details on the experiment even if it failed. Sometimes, knowing what others have tried is still as good an answer as what worked. BTW, nice machinining work there.
 

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I was surprised about the Buehler too but I have gone back and forth a few times with the same result. That motor is about the same size as the 8000 Pittman. The Pittman is actually a 24v model I got from Lionel but sems to perform like a 12v model. It turns at the first speed step and runs very fast at full speed. I may replace it with a 12v 8000 Pittman which should give even better low speed torque should I do the gearbox swap.
I have a video of the Buehler but can't upload it here and don't have a Youtube account.

Jet I have an old Bridgeport I bought for motorcycle work but found it comes in handy for train projects like this.

Pete
 

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….I finished both cars with Scalecoat II Flat finish. It worked well, so it will be part of my process from now on.

Tom
Tom,
Perfect timing. I’m waiting for SC Flat clear to arrive, haven’t used it prior. Did you notice a change in the “hue” or shade of the color when you applied the SC flat clear? Or a “chalk“ appearance after applied?

Reason I ask-the Testors flat clear that has served me well over decades just gave a ”chalk” appearance to my paint. The paint looks like a different color. I’m hoping the SC flat doesn’t have the same effect. I plan to experiment a little with flat/thinner in hopes the SC flat clear won’t be as strong.

appreciate feedback.

Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter · #570 ·
Hi Aaron.

I know what you mean by a chalky appearance. I have found that Scalecoat II doesn’t play well with other brands of clear coats. I used Dullcote on a Scalecoat paint job and the finished looked very chalky. Other brands of clear coats, like Humbrol or Krylon, didn’t work well. The key is to stay with the same brand of the Scalecoat products.

I used satin and gloss finishes with fine results. I experimented with the flat finish on the Penn Central car to start with. It worked nicely, actually hiding a couple odd paint application issues. The car came out better than I expected and I then used it on the Frisco car. Again, the results were great. Both cars took a couple coats to get all the nooks but it does work well.

Tom
 

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Thanks Tom, I was hoping to hear that.

I knew better than mixing clears and paint brands. Like you, I think SC is really particular about which clear is used. I plan on only using their flat, will report back with results.
 

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I'll be working on a continuing project at the bench in about 20 minutes.

I had another member on a European forum send me two driveshafts from another locomotive of the same brand that he was dismantling. They arrived from France in record time and they were the exact replacements I needed for my BR.120 A.C.M.E. brand locomotive.

The front driveshaft failed almost two years ago and this locomotive has been limping along on a repaired driveshaft since. The problem has gotten worse over the past months with stuttering and jerking during start-up, and is worse in the other direction. It smooths out at speed, but now will not pull grades with a five car consist.

It seems the broken driveshaft(s) were only a symptom of a problem with the drivetrain gears. That truck is going to be removed and I'm finally going to find out why these driveshafts have failed after I disassemble the truck down to component parts.

I'm betting on a split gear or it's slipping on the gear axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #574 ·
Paint shop at work.

I have two boxcars and a tank car that are being decaled at the moment.

In the foreground are GRJ’s MTH boxcars, at least two of them. They have been stripped and primed, waiting for the paint to come from Scalecoat. They are becoming PRR boxcars. Decals are ready and waiting!

Tom

Wood Flooring Rectangle Gas Composite material
 

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Discussion Starter · #578 ·
Hmm... that does look a little like some of the work train colors... 😂
The “pre-yellow” era! Don’t worry. I have some Pennsy Boxcar Red coming from Minuteman! Just waiting….🤨

Tom
 

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Got the MTH Premier USRA Mikado I was working on "ATSFized". The model is closest in size to the 3129 class, so I numbered it accordingly. Once the weather turns I'll take a rainy October/November Saturday and wire in the electronics to make it functional. I added an ATSF side mount bell, ATSF number boards, and converted the tender from coal to oil.

Train Wheel Vehicle Rolling stock Railway

Train Vehicle Rolling stock Track Locomotive

Train Vehicle Rolling stock Steam engine Rolling
 

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Discussion Starter · #580 ·
Great looking locomotive. is That the original MTH paint? I Know you renumbered it, but the black looks brand new. Very nice.
I would curious to see the top of the tender oil bunker…

Tom
 
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