Thanks Tom, I’m just try to be like you, haha! Your efficiency and ability to knock out freight car projects is impressive!Excellent! The detail really jumps out with the mild weathering. The various lanyards are well done. Just the right size.
The tender looks really cool from above too! I didn’t know the UP used oil burners. Sharp engine!
Looks awesome. Great decal work as well!Locomotive is finished!
Quick review. Airbrushed with Scale Coat paint, decals from various sources (numbers are individual cut and aligned), cab windows/number boards came from a clear plastic container, and weathered with acrylics.
My goal was a “used” locomotive, not an end of life cycle look.
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Lionel and MTH have both made scale models of different ATSF Northern classes. Lionel (and 3rd Rail) made the early 3751 class. MTH (and 3rd Rail) made the later 2900 class. The 2900s were larger in every dimension than the 3751 class. I have the latest Legacy release of the 3751 class from Lionel as well as two 2900 class locomotives from MTH. Most of my steam locomotives are MTH Premier because, for awhile, I was getting them cheaper than I could ever find any Lionel model. Besides my MTH SP GS4/GS6 & UP FEF Lionel hasn't made models of the MTH locomotives I have (AT&SF 2900, 3460, 5001, 5011 class, SP AC6, DM&IR M3) so MTH was the way to go.Lou, still one of my favorite steam engines. I really have to add one to the collection. You seem to gravitate towards the MTH models. Did Lionel ever make the same model?
Your current project looks interesting. I like the idea of blackening the drivers. Makes the locomotive look more realistic!
I'll post up what I do tomorrow after it's done. Basically it's using a chemical blackening solution that is used to blacken fasteners for car restoration. The solution won't damage paint, so it's perfect for this. First step is stripping the chassis bare, which I've done, then degreasing it before dunking it in the solution. My friend Pat came up with this process, and has done it several times, so I'll see how it goes tomorrow.Lou,
Can you describe how you do this? I’m very interested and want to try.
How long does the gun bluing last/how durable is it/does it conduct electricity? The method I used basically bonds to the surface. It won't rub off and conducts electricity. The only way the oxide is coming off is with mechanical abrasion (i.e. sanding).That's really cool Lou, a lot of work, but a great result! Being the lazy sort, I'd be tempted to try black cold gun bluing on them. I may have to give that a go...
Hmm. Might work then. It would at least work on the axle ends and possibly the edges of the wheel tire.Bluing is pretty rugged, even cold bluing. I wouldn't put it on the tread, as I don't know how well it might conduct, though I tested it in the past and it did read with an ommeter.
Found this on ChemEurope.comBluing is pretty rugged, even cold bluing. I wouldn't put it on the tread, as I don't know how well it might conduct, though I tested it in the past and it did read with an ommeter.