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Discussion Starter · #742 ·
My latest project was a Weaver Christmas car I stripped and repainted into an exciting and dynamic steam era “Monon” paint scheme. It was a little break from the string of cars I have been doing for GRJ.

This car was a nightmare of final finishing. I decaled it when it was glossy and coated it after with gloss clear. The decal borders were jumping out, so I tried using a flat coat of Scalecoat. It made it worse. Finally, I gloss coated it again and let it dry. The final coat was Testors Dulcote, which worked perfectly.…finally!

Just one of those cranky cars…

Tom

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Tom,
The final result is great, it looks like decals are “painted” on the model.

A coat of gloss often works wonders, not just in your workshop but with others too…👍

Saw a Monon boxcar earlier today, near a train activity a few hours drive from us. Lots of old rolling stock on the rails. And, a lot of fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #744 ·
Thanks 86T!

I was ready to give upon this car. It is a very plain scheme, so how could I mess that up? Lol. Interesting to still see Monon marked equipment. They went out of business so long ago. The old stuff is just getting rare to see…

Tom
 

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Thanks 86T!

I was ready to give upon this car. It is a very plain scheme, so how could I mess that up? Lol. Interesting to still see Monon marked equipment. They went out of business so long ago. The old stuff is just getting rare to see…

Tom
Haha, it’s always those “simple” jobs that give headaches. Years ago I did a solid scheme, disaster. Paint issues, bad clear coat, decals, etc. could’ve painted three things with the time spent!

The Monon car was part of a scenic railway. I should’ve mentioned that earlier but forgot. I have a soft spot for Monon stuff.

Anyway, nice work on the car, it looks great and no flaws apparent. You do excellent work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #746 ·
Thanks again! I have another set of more modern Monon decals to use, hopefully on the next project!

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #747 ·
I just finished another boxcar. This an older pattern boxcar that was put out by Weaver at some point. It arrived undecorated, so I primed it and painted it with Scalecoat II Boxcar Red#3. The decals are an older set of K4 decals that were printed on white decal paper.

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The older K4 decal sets presented the difficulty of seeing the white printing. I had to use a light source at an angle to see the printing for trimming purposes. K4 now prints their decal sets on light blue paper, making trimming much, much easier.

The paint left a semi gloss finish that the decals set well upon. The final coat was Testors Dulcote.

Lettered for the Peoria and Eastern, a New York Central Lines subsidiary…

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Tom
 

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I finally got that MTH Premier Mikado I repainted for Santa Fe running. I had to source some PS3 boiler and tender boards for it. I didn't have a PS3 tach mount for a Pittman motor so I used a PS2 tach mount and put it on the bottom of the motor then mounted the PS3 tach to it. It reads the flywheel facing up but works fine. Put a ball bearing 9234 Pittman in it as well. The little locomotive swallows that big Pittman fine.
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Runs well. It's torquey too. Handled a heavy mail train with ease.

 

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In more unnecessary modifications I removed the factory Chinese knockoff Pittman in my Premier PS3 SP Cab Forward and replaced it with a ball bearing 9234 Pittman. Was it necessary? No. But I had a spare Pittman so why not make the Cab Forward better?

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Lou, have you taken one of the Chinese Pittman clones apart to see how it's constructed?
I haven't yet. I'll probably pop this one open and see. It does have ball bearing end caps which is nice. Externally it's almost identical to a Pittman. My biggest complaint is the motor is noticeably louder than a Pittman. I can't hear a Pittman spinning when a locomotive is running at speed, but I could hear this knockoff one slightly which bugged me.
 

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I haven't yet. I'll probably pop this one open and see. It does have ball bearing end caps which is nice. Externally it's almost identical to a Pittman. My biggest complaint is the motor is noticeably louder than a Pittman. I can't hear a Pittman spinning when a locomotive is running at speed, but I could hear this knockoff one slightly which bugged me.
I have and made notes:
Appears to be compatible with Pittman parts- specifically replacement brush assemblies.
Fiber washer on motor shaft at commutator just like genuine Pittman prevents stray brush motor short as in the Canon motors.
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My biggest complaint is the motor is noticeably louder than a Pittman. I can't hear a Pittman spinning when a locomotive is running at speed, but I could hear this knockoff one slightly which bugged me
Agreed, the one I have out came out of a Premier Hudson that blew up the boiler board. I bought the engine at York for 150 back Fall 2019 which they said it did not run. It ran at the hotel after buying. It blew up a week later when put on the test track at the hobby shop. I replaced the board and noticed the engine just never seemed right so I ended up putting one of the good ball bearing Pittman swaps into it. I couldn't find anything wrong with the motor, but it was noisy so it's just in the motor pile.
 

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I have and made notes:
Appears to be compatible with Pittman parts- specifically replacement brush assemblies.
Fiber washer on motor shaft at commutator just like genuine Pittman prevents stray brush motor short as in the Canon motors.
View attachment 574172
View attachment 574173
Looks virtually identical except the end cap is slightly different. The SPG motor MTH was using prior to this black can one was a dead nuts copy of the 9434 Pittman, even down to having the same end caps.
 

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Finally got some correct Roller Bearing Rods for my Lionel Commodore Vanderbilt. Lionel made both the early and late versions of the CV. When 5344 was streamlined it had its original spoke wheels and plain bearing rods but shortly after it was given Scullin Disks and Roller Bearing rods. Lionel’s Scullin model retained the plain bearing rods. Lionel Niagara rods were heated and stretched and spacers and bushings fabricated. Might be the only CV model out there like this.

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Pete
 

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Three railing a Sunset NYC K5 Pacific. AFAIK no one has done a three rail version and repeated requests to 3rd Rail have fallen on deaf ears.
After installing some K-Line Hudson drivers on the Sunset axles I found the flanges were out of guage by .040” so the stepped axles were cut in and .020” milled off both sides of the frame.
A while back I tried installing the Sunset shell on a MTH USRA Pacific frame but the steamchest was made to fit a smaller smokebox and no simple way to make it fit. I still have add brake shoe mounts then it will get fitted together to see how it operates.

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I picked this up a few years ago. It was pretty much a wreck. Parts damaged or missing. Boiler painted with a wrinkle finish and frame painted with a brush. All stripped now. Its not like a museum piece is being trashed.

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Pete
 

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Three railing a Sunset NYC K5 Pacific. AFAIK no one has done a three rail version and repeated requests to 3rd Rail have fallen on deaf ears.
After installing some K-Line Hudson drivers on the Sunset axles I found the flanges were out of guage by .040” so the stepped axles were cut in and .020” milled off both sides of the frame.
A while back I tried installing the Sunset shell on a MTH USRA Pacific frame but the steamchest was made to fit a smaller smokebox and no simple way to make it fit. I still have add brake shoe mounts then it will get fitted together to see how it operates.

View attachment 574408

I picked this up a few years ago. It was pretty much a wreck. Parts damaged or missing. Boiler painted with a wrinkle finish and frame painted with a brush. All stripped now. Its not like a museum piece is being trashed.

View attachment 574409

Pete
I see you're going about the 2 to 3 rail conversion the hard way. Impressive. Will you have to mill the chassis for pickup rollers?
 

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Probably Lou but haven’t thought about that yet. It shouldn’t be too bad with the frame now bare. I want to make sure the valve gear and crosshead clears first. Moving the drivers inboard will help there.
I tried the “easy way” first but no soap.
Pete
 
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