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Been doing some freight car work during the last couple weeks.

I stripped and repainted a MTH Premier 40’ boxcar. I started using some Tru-Color paints. So far I am only using the spray cans for bigger projects. This car is their boxcar red with a K-4 Minneapolis and StLouis Railroad decal set applied.

The M&StL was founded in 1870 and absorbed and abandoned by the C&NW in 1960…

Train Brown Land vehicle Vehicle Rolling stock

Brown Train Rectangle Font Brick



The next car is a MTH 34’ reefer I stripped and repainted with Tru-Color railroad yellow with freight car brown on the ends and roof. I added some details and used a K-4 decal set for the Illinois Central Refrigerator Service…

Train Rolling stock freight car Track Wood

Train freight car Rolling stock Vehicle Track



Finally, two MTH 1900 boxcars that started life as a couple MTH 2000 club cars. They were stripped in isopropyl alcohol and modified with some details. I added poling pockets to each car, grab irons, brass cast brake platforms and new brake wheels. Each car is slightly different. I also added some tack boards to break up the cookie cutter look. Priming and painting next.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Beige Hardwood

Rectangle Wood Electronic device Fashion accessory Composite material



Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,443 ·
Thanks Bob.

I found a niche with working on these 19th Century cars. They make for great basic platforms to improve upon with some basic details.

I have a few Labelle kits waiting for me. They will definitely be a challenge!

Tom
 

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Been doing some freight car work during the last couple weeks.

I stripped and repainted a MTH Premier 40’ boxcar. I started using some Tru-Color paints. So far I am only using the spray cans for bigger projects. This car is their boxcar red with a K-4 Minneapolis and StLouis Railroad decal set applied.

The M&StL was founded in 1870 and absorbed and abandoned by the C&NW in 1960…

View attachment 597005
View attachment 597006


The next car is a MTH 34’ reefer I stripped and repainted with Tru-Color railroad yellow with freight car brown on the ends and roof. I added some details and used a K-4 decal set for the Illinois Central Refrigerator Service…

View attachment 597008
View attachment 597009


Finally, two MTH 1900 boxcars that started life as a couple MTH 2000 club cars. They were stripped in isopropyl alcohol and modified with some details. I added poling pockets to each car, grab irons, brass cast brake platforms and new brake wheels. Each car is slightly different. I also added some tack boards to break up the cookie cutter look. Priming and painting next.

View attachment 597010
View attachment 597011


Tom
Those look great Tom. How do the Tru-Color spray cans compare to Tamiya spray cans? For model rattle can paint I think Tamiya has the best product I've used, but if Tru-Color has some decent stuff I'd check them out, especially since Scale Coat now seems to be unobtanium.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,446 ·
Those look great Tom. How do the Tru-Color spray cans compare to Tamiya spray cans? For model rattle can paint I think Tamiya has the best product I've used, but if Tru-Color has some decent stuff I'd check them out, especially since Scale Coat now seems to be unobtanium.
Thanks Lou.

The only issue with Tru-Color is that the bare plastic definitely needs a primer coat before applying the color coat. I could paint cars with Scalecoat and didn’t need to prime them first. The Tru-Color cans run a bit thin and tend to pool in some recesses. I use Tamiya primer and it works well with Tru-Color, helping coat more evenly.

One issue is that Tru-Color’s flat clear coat isn’t flat at all. More like a slightly glossy satin. Their gloss coat is fine though. Tamiya flat causes the paint to darken ever so slightly, which makes it problematic when using after applying decals. The paint behind the decals stays brighter. I am experimenting with using an additional clear coat gloss before applying decals, even though the Tru-Color paint is very glossy on its own…

Like the Tamiya paints, the Tru-Color dries quickly. Tamiya has better spray nozzles, but Tru-color does well in its own right. Tru-Color is a bit limited in spray can colors. I use the Tru-Color with my airbrush when I need a color they haven’t “canned” yet.

Great work TOM!!! Love to see your work.👍👍
Thanks Laz. I enjoy your Wednesday productions!

Tom
 

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Those are beautiful models, I really enjoy learning from your work!
Been doing some freight car work during the last couple weeks.

I stripped and repainted a MTH Premier 40’ boxcar. I started using some Tru-Color paints. So far I am only using the spray cans for bigger projects. This car is their boxcar red with a K-4 Minneapolis and StLouis Railroad decal set applied.

The M&StL was founded in 1870 and absorbed and abandoned by the C&NW in 1960…

View attachment 597005
View attachment 597006


The next car is a MTH 34’ reefer I stripped and repainted with Tru-Color railroad yellow with freight car brown on the ends and roof. I added some details and used a K-4 decal set for the Illinois Central Refrigerator Service…

View attachment 597008
View attachment 597009


Finally, two MTH 1900 boxcars that started life as a couple MTH 2000 club cars. They were stripped in isopropyl alcohol and modified with some details. I added poling pockets to each car, grab irons, brass cast brake platforms and new brake wheels. Each car is slightly different. I also added some tack boards to break up the cookie cutter look. Priming and painting next.

View attachment 597010
View attachment 597011


Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,450 ·
Hi Guys!


Just a quick shot before bed… it’s getting so close. :)

View attachment 597221
Scratch, your locomotive is looking great. Take your time, you are doing well. Coming along nicely!


As usual Tom, fantastic modeling. The freight cars look terrific.
Thanks Bill.

I am detailing and weathering some more MTH factory painted cars. Here is the latest, a B&O reefer. I used four different washes from Vallejo paints. I am loving these washes…

Wheel Train Vehicle Sky Rolling stock
 

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Been doing some freight car work during the last couple weeks.

I stripped and repainted a MTH Premier 40’ boxcar. I started using some Tru-Color paints. So far I am only using the spray cans for bigger projects. This car is their boxcar red with a K-4 Minneapolis and StLouis Railroad decal set applied.

The M&StL was founded in 1870 and absorbed and abandoned by the C&NW in 1960…

View attachment 597005
View attachment 597006


The next car is a MTH 34’ reefer I stripped and repainted with Tru-Color railroad yellow with freight car brown on the ends and roof. I added some details and used a K-4 decal set for the Illinois Central Refrigerator Service…

View attachment 597008
View attachment 597009


Finally, two MTH 1900 boxcars that started life as a couple MTH 2000 club cars. They were stripped in isopropyl alcohol and modified with some details. I added poling pockets to each car, grab irons, brass cast brake platforms and new brake wheels. Each car is slightly different. I also added some tack boards to break up the cookie cutter look. Priming and painting next.

View attachment 597010
View attachment 597011


Tom
I would love to do or get a Minneapolis and St Louis. Good work as always. I think I asked this once before but what is your go to Tuscan Red can spray paint?

Also, I have placed some graffiti decals on one of my auto racks and it was wet transfer. My 1st time, it looked OK. But which do you prefer- wet transfer or dry transfer and how does dry transfer work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,457 ·
Thanks Bryan.

This car, I used Tru-Color Spray Glossy Boxcar Red. It works well, but a primer coat is essential to get even paint coating. The Tru-Color tends to pool in corners if there is no primer.

I use wet decals exclusively as I can ease them into position gradually. I was never very good with dry transfers (I used them on armor models) but there are a couple guys here who get excellent results with dry transfers.

Tom
 

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I would love to do or get a Minneapolis and St Louis. Good work as always. I think I asked this once before but what is your go to Tuscan Red can spray paint?

Also, I have placed some graffiti decals on one of my auto racks and it was wet transfer. My 1st time, it looked OK. But which do you prefer- wet transfer or dry transfer and how does dry transfer work?
Dry transfer you get a sheet of the decals on it. You place them on whatever you are working on a rub them off with something. I have a piece of scrap plastic that works good. You can use a pencil, and I think they sell something.
Dry transfers ( I think) are better used for buildings and the like.
Wet better for the trains.
The CNJ 1 below is dry transfer.
A search for dry transfers come up with many picks if you do a search.
There are a lot more different subjects to choose from.

Dollhouse Wood Art Window Event
 

· Railroad Tycoon
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Thanks Bryan.

This car, I used Tru-Color Spray Glossy Boxcar Red. It works well, but a primer coat is essential to get even paint coating. The Tru-Color tends to pool in corners if there is no primer.

I use wet decals exclusively as I can ease them into position gradually. I was never very good with dry transfers (I used them on armor models) but there are a couple guys here who get excellent results with dry transfers.

Tom
I like the dry transfers that you can put on an old building, something like this,

I think wet are better for trains, but if you like graffiti they make a selection of those to dry transfer to trains.
Unless your a graffiti artist, rubbing them on is easier. 😎
 

· Railroad Tycoon
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Another thing is that with the dry transfer letters is that they come off easily if you don't like the result.
If you place one on crooked, just erase it and try again.
 
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