[Krieglok]

Dry transfer you get a sheet of the decals on it. You place them on whatever you are working on a rub them off with something. I have a piece of scrap plastic that works good. You can use a pencil, and I think they sell something.
Dry transfers ( I think) are better used for buildings and the like.
Wet better for the trains.
The CNJ 1 below is dry transfer.
A search for dry transfers come up with many picks if you do a search.
There are a lot more different subjects to choose from.

View attachment 597503

That sounds like a good strategy. I think I just never had the patience for dry transfers. I would definitely try them on buildings when I get to that stage.

I don’t add graffiti to my cars other than hobo or car inspector “chalk scribbles” on occasion. I wouldn’t mind finding those in dry transfer form, as they are not really oriented to any particular position.

I like the concrete shanty. Is that a scratch build or a kit?

Tom

 

[Big Ed]

That sounds like a good strategy. I think I just never had the patience for dry transfers. I would definitely try them on buildings when I get to that stage.

I don’t add graffiti to my cars other than hobo or car inspector “chalk scribbles” on occasion. I wouldn’t mind finding those in dry transfer form, as they are not really oriented to any particular position.

I like the concrete shanty. Is that a scratch build or a kit?

Tom

The link for him in my Shanty thread does not work anymore, it was a kit from, ( copy and paste) Andre owns River Leaf Models and like many in the Model Train Vendor world he also has a full time job as an Electrical/Mechanical engineer working in the 3D printing trade.

I don't know if he changed his site or what, he has building kits too, or had building kits.

Ed's> CNJ Switching Shanty's build thread..

Some know I am a big fan of the largest little RR that used to be, the old CNJ. (Jersey Central Lines):thumbsup: So this was a must have for me!:) I purchased 2 CNJ switching shanty's from Andre. Andre's site, River Leaf Models. http://riverleafmodels.us/product/cnj-switching-shanty/ For...

www.modeltrainforum.com

 

[Big Ed]

Found this I guess he quit,

River Leaf Models

riverleafmodels.us

 

[Millstonemike]

I've been trying to get lettering is peel and stick vinyl for my tinplate restorations. The type used on car windows, etc. where nothing is left except the vinyl lettering So far, none of the vendors can cut the vinyl in such small type (12 Pt).

 

[Krieglok]

I would love to do or get a Minneapolis and St Louis. Good work as always. I think I asked this once before but what is your go to Tuscan Red can spray paint?

Also, I have placed some graffiti decals on one of my auto racks and it was wet transfer. My 1st time, it looked OK. But which do you prefer- wet transfer or dry transfer and how does dry transfer work?

I forgot to mention that I also use Tamiya spray paint, for plastics. Use Tamiya clear coat too.

Two good colors are “Dull Red” and “Red Brown” for close to rail car colors. They may not be exact, but they are close enough…

Tom

 

[Krieglok]

Found this I guess he quit,

River Leaf Models

riverleafmodels.us

That’s too bad. Looks like they made nice stuff.

Tom

 

[86TA355SR]

I’ve been busy, not with trains, but wanted to tell Scratch I like his locomotive, Big Ed builds beautiful structures, and Tom is knocking more freight cars out of the park. Great work by all. Thanks for contributing.

Now that SC paint has effectively exited, I’ll exhaust my supply and use another paint brand. My hope is someone else or business buys the SC line and offers it. If not, i’ll find a solution.

 

[Krieglok]

I’ve been busy, not with trains, but wanted to tell Scratch I like his locomotive, Big Ed builds beautiful structures, and Tom is knocking more freight cars out of the park. Great work by all. Thanks for contributing.

Now that SC paint has effectively exited, I’ll exhaust my supply and use another paint brand. My hope is someone else or business buys the SC line and offers it. If not, i’ll find a solution.

“Not with trains”?😳😳😳

Thanks Aaron!

True with the Scalecoat saga. Let’s hope they pass the business on to a good owner. I have branched away from my Scalecoat supply for the time being. I have plenty of colors for projects I have planned, but I have had to find alternatives for plain Jane railroad colors…

Tom

 

[Krieglok]

A couple more cars in the shop. Added details and some extra wood to make them unique…

A couple finished cars in back. Debating weathering them or not…

Tom

 

[86TA355SR]

“Not with trains”?😳😳😳

Tom

Yeah, its been a year, sarcasm, haha.

Hope to make some progress this week. A partial parts shipment arrived, the caster now has my custom pieces, and the new ball bearing drive is ready.

 

[Krieglok]

Seemed like forever! 😟…

Here are two new creations, still un-weathered for now…

A Toponah and Tidewater Railroad oldie style markings but with the wrong dimensional data…39’ instead of 34’….

Added new brake wheel, platform, tack boards, turnbuckles and a couple grab irons. Lettered with K4 decals…

Next is a MTH car lettered for the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern…

Added the same details as above plus a set of Wiseman arch bar trucks assembled with MTH wheel sets…

Tom

 

[86TA355SR]

Tom,

You‘re a machine, painting beautiful freight cars and decals in unique roads. Cool stuff.

Did you finish the passenger car kit ?

Aaron

 

[Krieglok]

Thanks Aaron. My production has slowed a bit. Many peripheral projects happening.

I have some early style tank car kitbashes in the works, as well as the baggage car I am residing. That has been untouched for a week now, but it is next on the list.

I have three Labelle kits and two wood caboose kits to start on…

Tom

 

[86TA355SR]

The big plan today was to finish all the piping, solder in place, and build the engineer’s “grip box”. I ordered the wrong size brackets, the wire won’t fit. It needs to be mounted prior to the next step, so I moved on.

The engineer’s ”grip box” isn’t available, so I’m scratch building it. The sides (not shown) are contoured to the tender and ready for solder. Here is a general idea of how it will look.

 

[Scratch3rail]

Since I’ve more or less wrapped the K-4, I started looking for my next project, and I think I’ve found it:

The SP P-10 class caught my eye for the following reasons:
Fits a postwar 6 wheel motor
Could handle O-36 curves without looking too goofy
Relatively simple details due to streamlining
Very interesting tender and paint scheme

All in all I think this’ll be a manageable first foray into scratching a loco.

 

[86TA355SR]

I can’t wait to watch your build!

 

[Norton]

Still chugging along on the 0-6-0. There is still some kit supplied piping to be applied but I think I am at the stage where I have to head to Utica to get some pics on the actual piping. Most all photos were taken too far away to see any detail. Engine runs, sort of. Sounds like a coffee grinder trying to grind up glass marbles.

Pete

 

[Scratch3rail]

Wow! That’s stunning!

 

[Scratch3rail]

I made some initial design progress on the P-10 last night. I got a lionel 221 motor that was missing its pickup plate, so I’m designing one of those to 3d print.
Additionally I decided to build this slightly undersized at 1:53 rather than 1:48 because the driver and boiler diameter match the motor and common pvc pipe sizes. Since none of my equipment is scale it won’t dwarf them as much either.

At this size the locomotive will be 11.1” long, if I have an hour tonight I’ll scale the tender as well.

 

[Krieglok]

View attachment 598540

The big plan today was to finish all the piping, solder in place, and build the engineer’s “grip box”. I ordered the wrong size brackets, the wire won’t fit. It needs to be mounted prior to the next step, so I moved on.

The engineer’s ”grip box” isn’t available, so I’m scratch building it. The sides (not shown) are contoured to the tender and ready for solder. Here is a general idea of how it will look.

Thats interesting. Where on the tender would it be mounted, where it it posed in the photo? i always figured the engine crew would stash their grips under their seat boxes. I learn something new everyday!

Still chugging along on the 0-6-0. There is still some kit supplied piping to be applied but I think I am at the stage where I have to head to Utica to get some pics on the actual piping. Most all photos were taken too far away to see any detail. Engine runs, sort of. Sounds like a coffee grinder trying to grind up glass marbles.

View attachment 598620

View attachment 598621

Pete

I wonder if some cutting oil would help smooth out the gear noise? The engine looks very detailed already. It will be a great looker when it is painted. What are the meters indicating?

I made some initial design progress on the P-10 last night. I got a lionel 221 motor that was missing its pickup plate, so I’m designing one of those to 3d print.
Additionally I decided to build this slightly undersized at 1:53 rather than 1:48 because the driver and boiler diameter match the motor and common pvc pipe sizes. Since none of my equipment is scale it won’t dwarf them as much either.

At this size the locomotive will be 11.1” long, if I have an hour tonight I’ll scale the tender as well.

View attachment 598639
View attachment 598636
View attachment 598637
View attachment 598638

That will be a very interesting build. Even though it is streamlined, the engine still has a “tough” look about it. I always liked the skyline boiler tops. They make the engine look huge!

Tom