[T-Man]

I first started with a 6017 style unmarked caboose from the 60's. What I did was extended the sides of the cupola outward to mimic a different caboose.

From THis............................................................... to THis

 

[T-Man]

The full set of pictures are in my photobucket acct under Caboose Lionel Album.

What I did was cut four windows from a scrap caboose and joind them to make a larger window.
Then they were mounted on a piece of birch plywood. Then trimmed to fit.
I used two part epoxy for gluing and Bondo spot putty to work the seams.
On the shell I cut a new hole for the window an cut the cuppola windows to extend them outwards. I also had to flaten the sides to accept the wood. The paint is just a Walmart pirmer.

Now for the lighting.

 

[T-Man]

Lighting

I only used one truck with a center pickup. The plastic trucks melted off when I cut the rivets. I am sure they will still work if I need them in the future. I will just use a larger screw and nut. The frame holes are 5/32 for the newer trucks I used the dremel to enlarge them. A 1/4 is too large and should be avoided. I had to use a washer to tighten up the truck with the electrical connections. A normal washer was too thick so I went with a piece of sheet metal.
I used a Radio Shack screw base. The bulb is 14 v I think. I used #6 -32 screws and nuts to attach it to the frame. I have a lug on the back side for the ground. The light still bounces when it runs but that what you get with only one pickup.
The Shell, I used Elmers and pieces from a water jug for windows.

Not quite finished yet. The cuppola windows need to be shaped for fitting.

 

[Boston&Maine]

That looks really good... Maybe you should make a few more and see if they sell on eBay

 

[T-Man]

Finished sort of

Done for now. I set it next to another caboose for comparison. The electrical is still erratic. The bulb is too high to light the front. I may add another. I need to practice on the dry transfer.

Ebay? Naw, one was enough for now. Plus I need more cabooses or cabeeses.

 

[Big Ed]

It looks great T, is that the color it's going to be?

 

[Reckers]

Nice job, T! The creativity of people on this site amazes me.

 

[T-Man]

Thanks for all the comments. I thought it would make a good thread.
Ed, when I researched on Google I came up with a flat white and red cuppola, also one in gray. Just now I found a variety of numbers and colors.
So I am sticking with gray to match a flatbed I am working on.

 

[Big Ed]

Thanks for all the comments. I thought it would make a good thread.
Ed, when I researched on Google I came up with a flat white and red cuppola, also one in gray. Just now I found a variety of numbers and colors.
So I am sticking with gray to match a flatbed I am working on.

How about a custom T-Mans smoke stack? One that really smokes.

 

[Reckers]

T-Man, you have me intrigued, now. I just bought an old caboose and a pair of matching scrap body shells. Haven't quite worked out what to do with them, yet. Since I've never tried building or modifying a car, it seemed an easy way to get some experience. Your pics and description are a pretty good guide. The Bondo you use---is that auto Bondo? And can you get it in small tubes, as opposed to a can?

I ran across a pic, today, that interested me; it's a photo of an old caboose with a side door, a style outlawed by the ICC in 1911. I've never seen one, so I might try to rework one of my shells into that. I'd like to illuminate it, too, but that will be a challenge. The frame I have is not for an illuminated car, so I'll have to swap trucks, find a way to insulate them from the floor of the car, and so on. If I don't botch the job, I'll post the outcome. That old caboose pic is in my gallery, if anyone is interested.

 

[T-Man]

Body Basics

It is a good diversion. It does give that unique look if you customise pieces.
The Bondo is a scratch putty. The putty is great on the plywood sides and hides the grain.A Tube is about 3 bucks at a Walmart. No mixing just straight out of the tube. I use crazy glue to initally join pieces, then a two part epoxy ,JB weld- 2 minute epoxy. I use a dremel cutting wheel, sanding drum and a tungsten carbide cutter for fine grinding. I use 400 grit sandpaper to work the scratch putty. Most times it has to be repeated to get better results.

I have used Bondo body putty for parts. It can be brittle. I made some doors and had chips after a drop. I have another project and will post it soon.

The AF frames should be insulated from one side since you are two rail. It it easier if you use a truck for lighting

The picture

The easiest way is cut the door from one and just glue to another but it won't be flush. An interesting project.I ran out of junk cabooses.

 

[ogauge47]

very nice, how many pickup rollers on it?

 

[T-Man]

Just one. The rear with no knuckle. After researching a few prototypes had both knuckles.

O gage people are Welcome here. Nice Weathering. How To's are always appreciated.

 

[T-Man]

More on Lighting

With one pickup the lighting was blinking like a neon sign. So I found a reference from CTT. Bob Nelson suggested a capacitor with a bridge rectifier to smooth out the electric ripples.
Parts
Radio Shack272-1022 electrolitic capacitor, 35 vdc and 4700 microF
a little expensive and big.
276 1152 bridge recitifier rated at 1.5 amps and 100v ( the black round dot with the green wire )

Simple connections, I used a board, but it is not necessary. I even mounted the second light on the board.
The feed and ground wires are fed into the rectifier
The + on the recitifier is connected to the + on the capacitor.
The capacitor connections are fed to the light.

I did add another light. These are 14v screw base lamps 272-1134 rated at .2 amps.

 

[Reckers]

VERY nice!

 

[prr1361(inactive)]

Nice cab, I also need to work on the dry transfer. soon as i get a picture youll see what i mean. You going to pair the cab with your waste flat car you made- also nice by the way

 

[T-Man]

Thanks for the comments. I also have a grey hopper to go with the caboose and waste car. Anyway here is another bad video but it gives you the general idea.

[Big Ed]

I see that maintenance car is going around nicely.

Whats on the flat car? A nuclear radioactive vat?

 

[T-Man]

The truck swap came out great! The engine is a 2018 prairie. I tried to keep it slow.

I call it a waste car. Did you see the thread?. I like it because of the novelty of it. Some people take that stuff seriously. No offense meant. It is modeled after a real car except for the light show. Your desrciption is accurate. Here is a real one

 

[ChopperCharles]

With one pickup the lighting was blinking like a neon sign. So I found a reference from CTT. Bob Nelson suggested a capacitor with a bridge rectifier to smooth out the electric ripples.
Parts
Radio Shack272-1022 electrolitic capacitor, 35 vdc and 4700 microF
a little expensive and big.
276 1152 bridge recitifier rated at 1.5 amps and 100v ( the black round dot with the green wire )

Simple connections, I used a board, but it is not necessary. I even mounted the second light on the board.
The feed and ground wires are fed into the rectifier
The + on the recitifier is connected to the + on the capacitor.
The capacitor connections are fed to the light.

I did add another light. These are 14v screw base lamps 272-1134 rated at .2 amps.

Nice, I lit a caboose with wheels from a tender too, and no capacitor I used made a difference (even non-polar) ... bridge rectifier though, that's the ticket!

Charles.