1. Yes, when you use power routing with Kato Unitrack #4 turnouts, the entire track portion beyond the turnout will have power. But I found that it is not practical to power a large yard, for instance, by that single turnout power switch at the entrance. So I only use power switching (routing) for one or two stub tracks.

2. In the middle of the 4 Unijoiners on the turnout, one of the two must be a half joiner. Which I think is not an insulating type. The short track section has a cut out to clear the other track. This track is a bit shorter to match other track length.

Line up-turnout crossing -EN | Unitrack

www.unitrack-kato.com

 

Thanks DanielC
I can see your point on question #1 and makes sense
for question #2, these connectors the clip that snaps into the next section has the grove for the rail to slide into the connector however on the end of the connector there is a small block of plastic that comes up level with the top of the rail, like an insulator connector would, which prevents the rail from sliding down the connection and leaving a 8th or 16th of an inch gap (size is a guess, big enough for the wheels to fall into, and also prevents the other rail from connecting and the clip from doing its job. I have physically pressed the rail down on top of it till I could get the rail to slide in the clip. to make a solid connection. Four different turnouts and they have all had this. Am I missing something here?

 

For question 2, may be take a picture for me to understand. I've never used insulation Unijoiners at turnouts. Always just used the contacting type.

 

In the top right corner, the right Unijoiner has clip only on one side. That is to clear the track piece on the left side. The left side short track pieces is the same, the top Unijoiner also only has clip on one side. So depending on which pieces you use, one of the 4 Unijoiners has to be this one side clip type.

I think they don't make an isolation Unijoiner (black ones) that has one side clip. If you want to use one, you may have to modify it yourself. I don't know if this helps your issue.

 

I think we are looking at the same thing, I took some closeup pictures as to how the little block on the end blocks the rail from inserting easily like other sections of track do. it covers the end of the clip and has to be pushed down to get the connection. which is why I was thinking it may be like an insulator for the current flow, and the distance between it and the rail is the gap I was referring to. I however see where I was mistaken, the block is not as high as the top of the rail. (these old eyes were playing games with me) so it maybe that I was seeing something that wasn't, I just knew that the connection was harder to make than other sections were adn the little block seemed to be the culprit.

And the forcing of the track to press down the block to get the connection had me concerned that I might be causing and issue and burning up resisters or circuit boards by doing it. That's why I had to ask.

like I said I'm a newbie to this n gauge stuff, and I think the last HO turnout I purchased was probably 30+ years ago, some I've got were my fathers and are over 60 yrs easily. And back then they were labeled switches not turnouts (ha,ha,ha) so I have to keep reminding myself to use the correct terminology for today's stuff. So, these newfangled turnouts are making life interesting as well as the small scale. I look at my layout plan and think there is no way it's going to fit then laying it out it works, not HO anymore, got to stop thinking in old school vision.

Thanks Daniel, for your assistance in (teaching this old dog some new tricks) helping me to understand what I'm doing.

Dave