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Discussion Starter #1
What is a good contact cement for attaching cork roadbed to plywood and then attaching track to the roadbed?
Thank you all in advance.
Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Out of 34 people seeing this post, I assume you all attach your roadbed and track in a different manner. Open to other suggestions. Thank you.
 

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Out of 34 people seeing this post, I assume you all attach your roadbed and track in a different manner. Open to other suggestions. Thank you.
You're up to 53 now. And I'm sure that in the last hour, at least some of those 19 people declined to answer because of the attitude conveyed by your last post. And you managed to wait a whole 4 hours before you got snarky. You need to be patient. People may have viewed your post thinking you were going to recommend a product, or that you were having trouble or something with a given brand or application (because the words "Contact Cement" leaves open a wide range of possibilities). And, certainly, many of those people may be visitors not members and can't reply.

Since there must be 2 dozen threads on this topic, or in which it came up, in 2021 alone, it doesn't really surprise me that there isn't much appetite for yet another. If you were really that desperate for an answer, Google would have given you probably a couple million results.

I use adhesive latex caulk for both (although I use foam roadbed, not cork). A lot of people do. Caulk is cheap and widely available in a variety of colors, and gives you roughly 15-20 minutes of working time to adjust things before it starts setting up, yet is tacky enough that things don't move unless you want them too (although I recommend pins to hold springy flex track in place while it does). Weighting while it sets up is also a good practice.
 

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Out of 34 people seeing this post, I assume you all attach your roadbed and track in a different manner. Open to other suggestions. Thank you.
I don't know why you would assume that from the absence of responses. People use whatever works, if they have it handy, if it is otherwise available, and if it's cost-effective. I've seen people claim to use yellow glue, PVA, DAP Alex Plus, Liquid Nails for Projects, Aleene's Tacky Glue, Mod Podge or other gloss/matte medium. If you have contact cement, sure, why not. You'll need a lot more than would be found in your typical $5 tube of it. DAP would cover about 20 times the length for the same price. It's what I use, the clear stuff. I goes on white, but dries a very light clear yellow colour. Stays somewhat flexible, too, which allows the tracks to squirm a wee bit when the roadbed and supporting structure contracts and expands due to changes in humidity and temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It was not my intention to be "snarky". I just wanted to know what is mainly used. I do appreciate your answers.
 

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Apology accepted.

Mesenterias response provides a good observation: there are literally thousands of ways to do it, and they all work. As long as you make sure your adhesive is compatible with the materials being used, it's hard to go wrong.
 

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Ray

As you can tell, the type of 'glue' to use for track adhesive varies
from person to person. There's really not much right or wrong.
I found good 'ole' Elmer's white glue to be effective for both gluing
down track bed and also track to bed. It's cheap, easily available
and washable. I used it, also, to lay the ballast.

But, what ever adhesive you select...USE IT SPARINGLY. Just
a dab here and there. It is invariable...you will wand to make changes
By limiting the glue you can pull up and reuse your roadbed and track easily.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you all. This is all very helpful. I tried DAP Weldwood: it did not stick cork to plywood but did stick plastic ties to cork. I tried Gorilla Glue in the caulk tube and it stuck it all. I have Liquid Nails in the caulk tube but haven't tried it yet.
 

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no glue just screws through ties to base. easier if you have to change something.
Unless, of course, you're using an extruded foam subroadbed.

And not to quibble, but the chance of an off-center screw torquing your rails out of true, or over-driving a screw and bowing your ties, may actually make that method harder to get right.
 

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Thank you all. This is all very helpful. I tried DAP Weldwood: it did not stick cork to plywood but did stick plastic ties to cork. I tried Gorilla Glue in the caulk tube and it stuck it all. I have Liquid Nails in the caulk tube but haven't tried it yet.
Weldwood didn't stick cork? That's very surprising. Perhaps cork is too porous. I use weldwood to apply veneers all the time. It works great.
 

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I read through all the responses and no one suggested common old nails cork to plywood however I understand the topic was about using some sort of contact cement so it's understandable. Another alternative - I have used Atlas track nails on all my layouts to fix track to cork and cork to plywood and been satisfied with the results. Easy to apply, move if necessary and without the mess of adhesives.
 

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I would have mentioned it, but that method is not currently in vogue and doesn't work with foam
 

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Actually nailing cork roadbed to foam works very well if you do it right.
That's how I did it and it held firm for two years till I ballasted.
Won't go into it here as the OP is going over plywood but if done
right nails in foam will hold very good indeed.

Magic
 

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I read through all the responses and no one suggested common old nails cork to plywood however I understand the topic was about using some sort of contact cement so it's understandable. Another alternative - I have used Atlas track nails on all my layouts to fix track to cork and cork to plywood and been satisfied with the results. Easy to apply, move if necessary and without the mess of adhesives.
Magic's comment above notwithstanding, no would not have recommended the use of nails. Especially in my case, foam roadbed to an extruded foam base isn't a good mix with nails. Too many chances for things to work loose and move.

And as we adhesive users have repeatedly said, if you take care when applying (no more effort than is required to ensure you don't over-drive nails, drive them at an angle, or hit your track and bend or break it), adhesives are neither particularly messy nor difficult to remove.
 

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My tack driver, been passed down for generations, built three layouts with it. Big end, roadbed to plywood, small end track to cork. Haven't damaged a tie yet.

557507
 

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What is a good contact cement for attaching cork roadbed to plywood and then attaching track to the roadbed?
Thank you all in advance.
Ray
[/QUOTE
When I use contact cement I use on Weldwood Original. to work well on wood and cork it takes to coats, letting each dry thoroughly.

Most of the cork I put down, however, I just glued down with Tighbond II Wood Glue.
 

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How do you hold the cork in place on curves when using glues especially liquid glues? I can see contact cement, but you have my admiration for using it. Been there on other projects. Messy stuff that requires patience and a steady hand, two attributes that I do not have.

When laying cork, I use a compass usually a stick with a hole drilled in one end for a pencil and a pivot nail in the other then draw the radius on a center line. Then lay one side of the cork against the pencil line, secure in place then butt the other side of the cork against it starting at the center point of the laid cork which alternates the joints.
 
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