Model Train Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Where can do some research about couplers.
I have three different sets that need coupler replacement and or maintenance, Tyco, Athearn, and Bachmann
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,846 Posts
Not sure what ya mean. Ya have three different sets. What, sets of couplers or sets of cars? I'm inclined to think you're talking about sets of couplers. I think ya just need to watch the responses here and you will see the obvious answer emerge, Kadee.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,771 Posts
Coupler Information

Where can do some research about couplers.
I have three different sets that need coupler replacement and or maintenance, Tyco, Athearn, and Bachmann
stjames1;

Couplers are usually not specific to the brand of car. Thus there is no "Tyco coupler", "Athearn coupler", or "Bachmann coupler." Whatever type of coupler is on your Athearn car, for example, is likely to have been used on many other brands of car too.
In HO-scale, older cars and locomotives may have "Horn-Hook" or "X2F" couplers which are angular in appearance, and don't use magnetic uncoupling. Newer cars will have some brand of knuckle couplers. These look much more like the couplers used on real, full-sized trains, and somewhat resemble the shape of a human hand. These do uncouple magnetically. The best quality brand of HO-scale knuckle coupler, and the one most modelers switch to is Kadee.

The file below explains more about model couplers used in N-scale, and HO-scale. You can also google "Model train couplers."

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:

View attachment A lot about couplers.pdf
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
stjames1;

Couplers are usually not specific to the brand of car. Thus there is no "Tyco coupler", "Athearn coupler", or "Bachmann coupler." Whatever type of coupler is on your Athearn car, for example, is likely to have been used on many other brands of car too.
In HO-scale, older cars and locomotives may have "Horn-Hook" or "X2F" couplers which are angular in appearance, and don't use magnetic uncoupling. Newer cars will have some brand of knuckle couplers. These look much more like the couplers used on real, full-sized trains, and somewhat resemble the shape of a human hand. These do uncouple magnetically. The best quality brand of HO-scale knuckle coupler, and the one most modelers switch to is Kadee.

The file below explains more about model couplers used in N-scale, and HO-scale. You can also google "Model train couplers."

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:

View attachment 530680
Thanks for the feed back. I was drawing the same conclusion about Kadee couplers and being able to use them across the board.
I actually have two complete Bachmann sets. Complete for my use, anyway. But the couplers are pretty much shot on all of the Bachmann cars. More than likely from heavy use and or abuse. Springs are missing on most of them, so it's a lot of cussing and aligning them for hook up.
The Athearn set needs some replacement as well, but they actually have more correctly functioning couplers. If I'm going to replace half of them, I'll probably end up replacing them all with the same coupler manufacturer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,474 Posts
As usual our folks have provided excellent
information.

But, when it comes right down to it, the old
reliable Kadee # 5, and the # 148 are what
you usually end up with. I prefer the 148 because
it uses the 'whisker' centering spring and is the
easiest to assemble. Either will work in most
situations, but some require a longer or shorter
shank...or maybe upper or lower set knuckle if
loco/car draft box is not aligned vertically.
Kadee makes 'em all.

Don
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
As usual our folks have provided excellent
information.

But, when it comes right down to it, the old
reliable Kadee # 5, and the # 148 are what
you usually end up with. I prefer the 148 because
it uses the 'whisker' centering spring and is the
easiest to assemble. Either will work in most
situations, but some require a longer or shorter
shank...or maybe upper or lower set knuckle if
loco/car draft box is not aligned vertically.
Kadee makes 'em all.

Don
Just got done cruising their site, It appears that the 148 will resolve a lot of issues. Now that leads up to the next question. Will the metal 148's work magnetically?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,466 Posts
stjames1;

Couplers are usually not specific to the brand of car. Thus there is no "Tyco coupler", "Athearn coupler", or "Bachmann coupler." Whatever type of coupler is on your Athearn car, for example, is likely to have been used on many other brands of car too.
Not strictly true. Bachmann sells EZ-Mate couplers, which are standard on all its HO rolling stock, and Horizon Hobbies, parent company of Athearn Trains, also owns McHenry couplers, and these come standard on their units. These are both varieties of knuckle couplers, and will work with Kadees (and other brands), although the are cheaper, flimsier plastic construction compared to Kadees all metal versions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,466 Posts
Just got done cruising their site, It appears that the 148 will resolve a lot of issues. Now that leads up to the next question. Will the metal 148's work magnetically?
Depends on what you mean by "work magnetically". Will the work with magnetic uncoupled? Yes, they will. They hold cars together through mechanical linkage, not magnetically.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,138 Posts
If you have a tight radius curve and the cars start derailing I found using a longer shank KaDee couplet can help. Does not look nearly as good but can save a locomotive or car from being designated to a shelf. Had an SD45 by Athearn that had this issue with certain cars leaving my yard on my last layout.

If you have cars with talgo trucks KaDee make a specific coupler to convert them. You cannot go wrong with them, just have to find the one that fits your requirements.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
769 Posts
Good tip.

When upgrading couplers, trucks and wheelsets on rolling stock I've found that you can tighten the trucks to the car frame too much.

Coupler box on the car, no wiggle room between the truck & frame and tight radius you'll pull the truck off the rails.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top