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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So you want to light up a coach?
Providing you have pickup, it is only a matter of runnings wires to the interior. The easiest is the 14 volt bulb. You can go with a screw base or bayonet. You will need to install a base, two lights should be plenty.,The old 8 inch coaches only need one. Wire them up in series.

LEDs are possible. First is color. White is easily availble, a warm white would have to be ordered. Today most LEDs produced only have a 25 degree spread. It may not give you the look you want. However they make a flat one with 120 degree spread. So choice of color and style is essential.

4 to 6 LEDs should light a coach. For AC you need an even number because they are connected back to back pos to neg. These Sets are then wired in series. So for each set used you subtact 3 volts or 3. from the track voltage to calculate your resistance. If you hac DC you just divide by .02 amps. For AC you can multply by .7 and then divide.

My waste car used 0ne set I have a 450 ohm resitor installed. For 2 pairs a 270 or 330 ohm resistor would work. If the 330 gave me enough brightness I would try that. My next waste car may have two sets so I may prove that out.

In all, the numbers don't change too much in using 12 to 16 volts. After referring to a CCT article the only point of disagreement is on wattage. I use 1/2 watt resistors. Calculating using the article recommends 1 watt. It may be reasonable since the article used 16 LEDs in pairs.

My waste car lighting is dependable. Any track voltage and it lights up.

Costs? An HO lighting kit goes for 12 bucks, You can do a coach for less with Rafio Shack parts. If you buy your LEDs in bulk it is even cheeper.
 

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How do you wire something that small, and how many would it take to really illuminate an S scale, 12"-long coach? I'm planning on using silhouettes, and those tend to have a diffusing medium.
 

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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Small? Anton, wanted some the size of Lincoln's nose!

Two packages, four would do. RS number 276- 0024. You can mount them on a board. This wiring has them pointing in the same direction.
The gaps in the LEDs are up and down. The current has to flow across. All these are on all the time for AC.


This is a low profile setup. for ac with 300 ohms.
 

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Thank you both! I'm still grinding away at the corrosion, so it will be a while before I can get to the lighting, but this thread was too timely to pass up.
 

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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I cheated and read your post.:D
If you have silhouettes a regular bulb may be better. Two would work. I wanted to use those LEDs to light a building or shed, but I haven't got one yet.
Today I did play with the LEDs in a coach. The brightness just wasn't there. One normal bulb on a stand will do the trick.
 

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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Richmond Controls

This company was mentioned in CTT. It has a section on interior lighting. They sell a kit. The board is 23 inches and has ports of LEDs evey 1/4 inch.

I did see a board at FRY's with LED's for 32 bucks.
 

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Having missed your earlier post, I now see it. I'll go with the standard bulb arrangement. Thanks!
 

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Go for it! Since I'm trying to sort ot my AF aluminum coach bodies, I'd love to see what you come up with.
 

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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I guess I started two threads. So you have to read both!

I built an 8 LED setup and tested it on a coach but used it in the 137 staion instead. Go here to see how it was done. The result shown in the 137 station.
 

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I was kidding----I didn't expect you to. How much AF do you have, and what do you have?
 

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That reminds me...I've been meaning to ask you about something. Big Ed gave me an AF Casey Jones engine. It was the first model of the game train---ac motor, no reverse, runs well. It occurred to me I could probably change the tender trucks and add an e-unit to make it reversible. What do you think?
 

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I don't think so, but I'll check. AF went bankrupt a few years and models later; they were cutting costs everyplace they could and the one-direction train reflected it. Working in the engine is a challenge; no screws except the pilot assembly and the linkage for the tender. The innards were shoved inside with metal tabs that stuck into slots in the plastic shell, so it wasn't meant to be disassembled. I've had it open, but it's a challenge with a risk of splitting the shell every time.
 
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