Can someone help me out I’m trying to install a crossover in my yard and can’t get it right is there a diagram out there to I can follow also is an ar1 required. Thank you for any help you can give me.
In order to give you some good advice we need much more information.
If you mean crossing a train from one track to another track what kind of track are you using?
What brand of turnouts and how you are using them, how are they wired?
DC or DCC? What kind of problems are you having?
Is there some sort of reversing loop involved? An AR1 might be needed if so.
Any information you give will be helpful.
Hi magic yes one track to another in my yard I’m using dcc the loco runs through but when I go back through in the other direction it shorts out. Atlas custom turnouts and I have caboose throws code 83 track.
Thank you for answering me
A drawing of your track layout would be a big help to
determine what is happening to cause a 'short' circuit.
Is this crossover in a 'reverse loop' situation? Does the loco turn around
and go back through the crossover in the direction from which
it came? If so you would need to create an
isolated section which is powered through a reverse loop controller.
Do you have an (in simple term) oval track or dog bone in which the crossover
connects the track on East side of the oval to the track on the west side
of it. If so you have created a 'reverse loop' situation that could result
in the need for two reverse loop controllers.
Are you using turnouts with plastic or metal frogs?
I agree with the other guys. It sounds like you have created a reverse loop when you installed the crossover. The solution to that would be an isolated track section and a reverse loop controller, of which the AR-1 is top model.
It's hard to be sure though, unless we can see a track diagram. If you can post one, we can confirm the diagnosis.
I'm still confused. Terminology matters. A 'crossover' is a crossover to another track, or it's an overpass. If you mean you have fashioned a diagonal track to the opposite side of a loop or oval, then you will have a phase or a polarity conflict at the one turnout where the loop closes on itself. What you need to do there is to gap both exits of the turnout, either with a small open gap or a plastic insulating joiner. This is at the 'frog end', not at the moving 'points end'.
From there, you power the loop, only, with a pair of feeder wires that come off the output terminals of a power reverser. It can be an AR or PSX, or whatever model you want, but the rails between the two gapped exits at the turnout are the only part controlled by the auto-reverser. And yes, you only need the one. It works by reversing conflicts when the first metal tire of an item of rolling stock bridges the gap and creates a short. At that point, the reverser quickly and silently reverses polarity, or phase, and the train continues as if nothing has happened. Kinda nifty.
For future reference, a single pair of feeder wires, say 22 gauge and only 20" long, will power about 10 contiguous feet of rail without appreciable voltage drop. After 12 feet or so, you may experience slowing of the locomotive, but it's not a safe bet until perhaps the 12 foot point in either direction from where the feeders are applied.
Thank you very much that’s exactly what I needed. I wasn’t sure where the gaps went. When I looked on YouTube they called it a crossover in the yard area the main line joined with one yard line. But no one shows the wiring or the gapping thanks again
Again we need a drawing of your layout to determine how to
wire your situation. You may need 2 reverse loop controllers
if you are connecting the Left side track of your oval to Right
side track which actually creates a figure eight with shunts
connecting the two end loops at the crossover.