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Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody converted or used a dcc train on a dc layout. Can the dcc stuff be taken out. This may be to early to ask this question as I have just bought 4-4-0 JUPITER on e-bay without knowing the answer to that question! I know dcc can be run on dc track but will not act right without doing something. Does anybody know an answer for me.
I'm not sorry to buy without knowing the answer I wanted the train anyway.
THANKS AL
 

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If the DCC locomotive comes with a jumper to plug into the DCC header when the DCC decoder is removed, then yes, it should be able to be operated on a DC system.

I have never bought a DCC equipped locomotive that included this jumper. I have purchased DCC-Ready locomotives that have included it.
 

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Some, most, all of the newer (?) DCC decoders have a DC mode. If there is sound you'll get it making sound at various voltages. Aspects of that can be set with say jmri, including turning the sound off (probably). Since you have it already why don't you just stick it on the track and apply voltage and see if it moves or does something. My experience is limited here to some recent stuff. But the settings include how much voltage is needed to get it going.
 

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That's a good point. Look for the jumper ... If it has one you can do that. Although the dual mode DCC/DC is nice it kinda presumes you are DCC going to odd DC only layout .. I think at least. This to me is where an external way to adjust sound level that doesn't involve removing the shell and ripping the speaker out. Would be nice ...
 

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I am by no means a expert on this one!!
I however do know I have 2 Bachmann 2-8-4 berks with DCC onboard. They can run on a DCC track/ layout. Ready to run out of the package! That’s what I was told.
I also know my layout is not DCC!! lol
I run them all the time on it. No problem with them. Of course I don’t know about the DCC aspect of them yet. Maybe I did mess up the decoders
I just know they work good on my layout.


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Discussion Starter #6
I don't have this train yet just bought it on e-bay 2 hrs ago used with 30 day return. I think the train will have dcc but don't really know. I have dc and want to stay with dc so will wait until I get it then see what can be done.
If I have to remove dcc from it will check that out. IRON man that is what I was hoping.
THANKS AL
 

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Hopefully it works out for you!!
I know I was happy when mine just went right on the track & took off!


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Yes newer decoders will operate on DC only, I just don't know how to tell if it "dual mode" or not. Putting it on a DC track and trying it won't harm it. It will work or it won't. If its used then its possible that its also been set to not work on DC. In that case you will need to find some one to change the decoder setting.
 

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As the others have said, a DCC loco of recent manufacture is almost certain to work on a DC layout. You're just missing out on the much finer control over the motor, lights, and sound that DCC provides.

Hopefully, that Jupiter is one of the new ones made for the 150th anniversary of the Golden Spike ceremony last year, and not something that has been in someone's basement for a decade.
 

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From day one, DCC modules have been required to pass the DC signal to the motor, like it was not there. If your using a DC signal with no PMW, all is good and the engine runs like it is on DC. If your DC power supply produces a PMW, which most do at settings below 9 volts, then the module thinks it is a DCC signal with erratic results. Some more recent modules have additional electronics in the circuit to help with this. Even then it will be dependent on your DC power supply.
Good luck with your new model.
Larry
llxlocomotives.com
 

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Modern decoders can be rendered unresponsive to DC power to the rails simply by configuring CV29 to a value of 38. If you don't wish to have it ever respond to DC power, say if it gets to the rails by mistake, you change CV29 to another value, 34 if the decoder has a 'long/extended' address, and I forget what the other value is for a short address. Google 'CV29 cal..." and you'll instantly get several offerings of calculators with the tables showing what else will change in CV29 if you programme it with a range of possible values. Run down the table, find the best fit, and then go and programme yours accordingly. You can do this in Ops Mode/Programming on the Main.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got the 4-4-0 JUPITER today and it is DC only with head light, I didn't realize that it would be so small I have 2
2-6-0 small loco about 5 3/4"long this even smaller as a hard time go up my 2-3% grade with no cars behind. I have 2 tracks
smaller on the inside so I will use it there no grades. I got a good buy on it at e-bay $60 looks new no problems yet.
The front axle doesn't like my track so I took it off.
I received another order today too 6 rolling stock I didn't pay much attendent as 3 cars came in n scale I'm learning the hard way will return and exchange them for HO the right size. will cost me shipping!
I have been wanting this loco to pull some passenger cars so will use it for that and see how many it will pull1-2-3
probley 1-2 maybe not that many will see.
THANKS FOR THE ADVICE
AL
 

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If you have ever seen a picture of the Golden Spike ceremony, the size of the loco is pretty obvious. And, yeah, a 4-4-0 is small. You removed the front axle... so now you have a 2-4-0? A better solution would be to add some weight to it.

If you're running coaches appropriate to the era, these would only be about 45' long; my guess is it would pull 4-5 of those.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
CT I know what you are saying taking the 2 axles off is just a trail run, the front axle was draging and stoping the loco.
I will try other things , The front axles are just hanging around on the front of loco I also will add weight to front of it to stop the slip.I expected it to be small so I will live with it. I love the look and history of the loco.
THANKS AL
 

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Those pilot trucks are often troublesome, especially on cheaper locos. Adding weight is one option; often there is a spring which can be adjusted or replaced too.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
YES there is a spring to hold it tight but is a joke. I tryed 2 cars no go 1car and it still didn't want to go. I'm going to give it another try thursday and make up what to do with it. I love the look but $60 is a lot to put on wall to look at.
AL
 

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You probably won't be buying any background murals for your railroad I take it then?
 

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The spring is intended to force the truck to return to center. Sometimes, though, they pull the truck up, causing it to derail easily. You also need to make good and sure that it is correctly on the rails when you rail the loco on. It's easy to misaligned it.

The pilot truck is supposed to just roll along, or drag in your terminology (that's what makes it a 4-4-0 instead of a 0-8-0). On the prototype, it helps guide the loco into turnouts and curves; on our models, they're mostly just for appearances.

I notice you're running it on your "smaller, inside" track. Despite it's diminutive size, it may run better on the broader curves. Try it on the outside track.

And I know you love the appearance of the loco, but a $60 steamer isn't going to be a champion performer. Also, the ones I see listed cheaply on eBay are older ones, before Bachmann got religion kn quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I agree with everything you said, I don't know when it was made or how old it is, it did not have any niks or marks it had not been used very much. It was sold by a wholesaler I thank as she has a lot of train things.
The train was run on a 20" rad and the small one is around 16" rad. the spring was weak and for looks to hold the 2 axles. I am new at this and have a lot to learn about model trains. I knew about e-bay but was trying to get a good deal.
I have returned it this morning, I got up to give it another try but it performed like it did wed. so took it to post office.
THANKS FOR HELP-----Don't worry to give me advice I need help at times.
I'm 77 and know that I don't know everything!
AL
 
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