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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For a long time I've wondered if rust remover could be used to remove rust from vintage metal trains without killing the paint, etc.. Well, now I know.

Just today I decided to test a well known brand on this Marx tender. It had a very good paint job with a couple small areas of rust. I soaked the entire tender for about 5 hours and now it looks like it went through a nuclear war.

Evidently it's not the way to clean Marx vintage tenders :D Well, at least I'll never use it again for this application.
 

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Anything that will remove rust is likely to also remove paint.

If you can find the decals you may as well start over with that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Anything that will remove rust is likely to also remove paint.

If you can find the decals you may as well start over with that one.
I'll keep it for future videos. This product's big selling point is it doesn't harm paint, plastic, etc..

It works with some paint I guess. Evidently, not all.
 

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The one thing I use to remove rust is Naval Jelly. Started using it several decades ago to remove rust on amplifier chases prior to rebuild. Later on used it on firearms with good results. Lately have used it on weights in freight car chassis. Again with good results. It does not appear to be very toxic as it takes a little muscle for it to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The one thing I use to remove rust is Naval Jelly. Started using it several decades ago to remove rust on amplifier chases prior to rebuild. Later on used it on firearms with good results. Lately have used it on weights in freight car chassis. Again with good results. It does not appear to be very toxic as it takes a little muscle for it to work.
I used N Jelly years ago (good stuff). I can't remember if it removes paint or not.
 

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If there's rust under the paint, the rust remover will remove it as it dissolves the rust. I used EvapoRust on a bunch of cars and locomotives that were submerged during Hurricane Sandy and then stored for a few months in the wet boxes. On some of them, the paint held up well, on others, the paint came off in sheets.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If there's rust under the paint, the rust remover will remove it as it dissolves the rust. I used EvapoRust on a bunch of cars and locomotives that were submerged during Hurricane Sandy and then stored for a few months in the wet boxes. On some of them, the paint held up well, on others, the paint came off in sheets.
This wasn't EvapoRust and the car was solid except for a couple small spots of rust. I did this as a test because I have a valuable loco that has rust and I'd like to remove it. I wanted to see if the claims for this remover were true.

I followed instructions but it literally melted the paint. I'm now experimenting with entirely different kind of rust remover. It's imported and very expensive.

I like to leave as much of the original paint as possible. Personally I'm not a big fan of repainted vintage train cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The EvapoRust didn't actually "damage" the paint, it was intact, just not attached to the chassis any more. It didn't melt any of the paint.
EvapoRust might be better than what I used. I originally identified the brand I used but then decided to edit that out. Way too negative if you get me. :D

Anyway, I live and learn :rolleyes:

I'm thinking these old Marx tin cars are too fragile for any type of submersible rust removal bath.

The next product I plan to test is fast acting and is applied directly to the rusted area. It only takes a few minutes to remove the rust. The creator of the product assures me it will not damage paint. Like they say, "we'll see."
 

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I have used Evaporust on model aircraft engines to good results, but it will weaken anodizing and if left long enough will remove it completely. Does well on rust though. It separates over time into globs and liquid, still works though.

Not supposed to harm plastic, and I have a rusted locomotive engine where the armature is rusted to the windings. Going to try it on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have used Evaporust on model aircraft engines to good results, but it will weaken anodizing and if left long enough will remove it completely. Does well on rust though. It separates over time into globs and liquid, still works though.

Not supposed to harm plastic, and I have a rusted locomotive engine where the armature is rusted to the windings. Going to try it on that.
Let us know how the engine comes out. I have several like that myself I think. I buy lots of "not working" Lionel and Marx trains made up to about the 50's. Some look like they laid in the yard for a year or two.
 
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