Model Train Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,601 Posts
Who made it and year
It's a Marx postwar loco as determined by the single unit for the sliding shoes (see pic, below).

Oddly, my 1666 is a 0-4-2 with no provision for a front truck. Your 1666 shell has a pylon underneath in the rear for a trailing truck. You may have a Marx 666 motor installed given the hole in the sheet metal for a front truck.

Both motor versions are great runners. They keep chugging along, effortlessly, with a bunch of cars in tow. Just make sure it's had maintenance - motor cleaning, oiled axles, greased gears and commutator face / brush cleaning (see step-by-step, below).

Marx Prewar PostWar.png


You'll need some CRC cleaner (HD), GooGone or TV Tuner cleaner. 90% Isopropyl alcohol also works well. That loco will come back to life with some maintenance:

(1) Remove the motor from the shell (two screws on the side and it slides out).
(2) Remove the two screws that hold the brush plate on the motor. Clean the armature face (three sections) with CRC and Q-tips, a kitchen scrub pad (pencil eraser for stubborn spots). Clean between the three sections with a toothpick. Clean the plate's brush silos with CRC on a Q-tip. Replace the brush plate sans brushes. Then lift the tiny springs to the side of the silos, insert the brushes and replace the springs. That should get the motor running. If not, start performing the next step while turning by hand until the motor will run on its own
(3) With the motor running over newspaper, hit it with lots of CRC - inside and out, a few times or more to clean out all the old, dried up lubricants: "flush it out"
(4) There's one spot where you can use the CRC straw pinpoint nozzle to get some in the E-unit (if equipped). Repeat as necessary turning the motor over and over while do it. Note the E-unit won't cycle unless the motor is upright.
(5) Lube the axles, push-rod points and the armature's spindle. Lightly saturate the felt surrounding the spindle on the brush plate side. Use a lightweight oil (sewing machine, 3-in-1, etc.) Grease the gears. Sans grease, use a heavy motor oil (or a lightweight in a pinch).
(6) Clean the wheels for better electrical contact and grip (pulling power).
(7) Run the engine on a track. It will run better after several minutes.
(8) Have fun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,601 Posts
is this unit suppose to reverse. It does not, how do I fix that?
No reverse on the 1666, light and smoke only. But the 666 motor shown below also has the reverse unit (copper coil). You may have a 666 motor. They're all interchangable - Marx manufacturing efficiency.

You can easily remove your motor. Remove the two screws on either side of the steam chest and the motor will slide out.

If you remove it, you can see how easy it is to do basic maintenance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,601 Posts
The "box" behind the light is the reverse unit. TO check if the E-unit solenoid is getting power. Put it on the track (or attach alligator clips) and cycle transformer power from off to on - minimum voltage. You should be able to hear the solenoid engage on each application of power. Note: the E-unit only cycles with the motor right side up.

If it's not moving it could need some service. But first check the E-unit's power switch. A little lever on the side of the unit. When engaged, the E-unit's coil gets power from the center rail and cycles with track power.

The level can be moved to break that connection. Thus the solenoid never gets power and the motor remains in it's last direction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,601 Posts
My 1666 does not have reverse but has a smoke unit. You may have a motor from a different loco. Marx steam motors were pretty much interchangeable between shells. Lots of re-use of the basic design. That is what made Marx the low cost producer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
e unit

I looked at the e unit and it looks like it is wedged between the motor plates. A tough job to repair.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,601 Posts
That motor has been rewired? Are you sure the E-unit is getting power? Cycling full throttle should give you an indication that the solenoid is trying to move. If it is cycling correctly, perhaps the E-units connections to the motor were not properly rewired.

If it's stuck, sluggish, spray an electrical cleaner (CRC, Goo-gone, etc.) into the unit where ever you can fit the cans "straw-like" extensions. Then cycle power with the engine upright. It may several applications.

Panther recommends WD-40. But others council against any lubricants as they tend to pick-up and accumulate dust. Yet Panther has repaired some 100 Marx E-units.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top