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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How do I solve this problem. I have reversed the leads, tried the reverse direction switch on the power supply, etc...

History:

I had a Bachmann 3 car 1 engine set given to me years ago with the fast track.

I didn't get into the hobby at the time but I am starting now. I ordered a Bach. 4-6-0 steamer. Before the Atlas track was ordered I set up a small oval of the fast track and the engine ran forward and reverse.

When I got the Atlas track, I set up a 2x3 rectangular track. I hooked the Atlas leads to the Bach. power pack aux.tabs and got power and the engine ran backward. I tried the direction switch and it was still running in reverse. I swapped the lead connections to the power pack and still in reverse.

P.S. I can't understand the directions to make this DCC - the directions say "cut this" -- "solder that"....

I can build devices with a 555 timer but these directions are terrible and I don't want to screw up a perfectly new engine!

Thanks in advance for any help!

Stephen
 

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I'm surprised it runs at all - the Aux connectors on a Bachmann power pack are AC for powering turnouts and accessories. If your Bachmann power pack is simple analog DC and so is your locomotive, you're going to have to cut Bachmann's connector off their power cable, strip the ends, and connect those to the Atlas track. :)
 

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ac / dc dont mix ends in a boom or smoke show
unless your rockin out with the radio full blast hahahahaha
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank You!

I just looked at the power supply and --- yes the output is AC! Guess I've got some studying to do. Simple answer.

Any thoughts on the DCC wiring on the engine?

Stephen
 

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Stephen

It's not at all clear whether your new loco
is DCC or plain DC.

Since you ordered it new, the box and
instructions should tell you.

If they say DCC ON BOARD, or DCC DECODER
INSTALLED, or other similar phrases, it
already has the decoder installed.

HOWEVER, if the box and instructions say
DCC READY, It is DC but requires only a
plug in decoder to become DCC.

Older models may indeed require that
the decoder wires be soldered.

Tell us what you find and we can go from there.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Don

The description on Amazon says: "DCC Equipped for speed, direction and lighting" Also states "Dual mode NMRA - compliant decoder"

The directions are not clear on how to go to DCC mode. There are 6 solder points and it implies that a piece of wire need to connect 3. No real explanation or direction for a first timer.

Stephen
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Don Continued

I also meant to include that it is a Bach. Baldwin 4-6-0 priced on Amazon at $129. There is a decent description if you scroll down far enough.
 

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Stephen

Per your last post you have a dual mode locomotive. The decoder
is already installed, you need not do anything
further. No cutting or soldering required.

You can run this locomotive with the
Power pack you earlier mentioned. Connect
the track to the terminals marked TRACK.

You can select FWD or REV to determine
direction, and the control will determine speed.

If, in the future, you buy a DCC controller it will
power this loco.

Don
 

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His problem (as I understand it) is that some Bachmann "starter set" power packs don't have DC terminals. The DC comes from a round jack that mates to an audio plug on their power cable. The other end of the power cable has an odd flat connector that mates to the EZ-track "terminal/rerailer"; which supplies power to the rails. The easiest way to use this with any track other than Bachmann EZ-track is to start by chopping that flat black connector off. If you're using Atlas sectional track, just strip each wire and then solder each one to a rail joiner. :)
 

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What comes with a Bachmann starter set is curved, but it's the same idea. (That one must be HO BTW: - all N scale EZ-track is nickel-silver.) And I see the two fork-style connectors which imply they connect to a power pack with screws. OK. I have two ~5 year old Bachmann 46605A power packs out of Amazon.com N scale starter sets, and on both of them the connection labelled "TO TRACK" looks like the headphone jack on my old I-pod. And if Stephen has a 46605A power pack with the cable I showed (that pic is from Bachmann's online store) and wants to use it with Atlas track; then I've already described the most direct route. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Finally Running Forward

Thanks to Don, GNfan, BWells, DonR

I got home from work about 4:00 (PST) and first thing I did was to cut the Bach. cord and splice in the Atlas wires. It is working but seems not to be very powerful. I am only pulling a 60' Pullman and caboose --- but also on a very quick track setup. I hope I dint mess it up running backward on AC! or something like this:


DCC issue - I downloaded the Bach. app for iPhone and it doesn't see the engine. I just looked at the instructions again and it was a standard printed sheet showing how to install a decoder. I don't need that. It confused me when I first saw it. I thought there were adjustments required.

Since this is going to be my first build that I will later donate to a hospital with an acrylic cover, I still have a lot of questions.. if you guys don't mind.....

I bought cork track bed and foam track bed from Woodland Scenics. What do you Pros like better?

Once again Thanks! I'm gonna love this forum!

Stephen
Near Jamestown CA home of the Back to the Future 3 train:

 

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Thanks to Don, GNfan, BWells, DonR



Since this is going to be my first build that I will later donate to a hospital with an acrylic cover, I still have a lot of questions.. if you guys don't mind.....

I bought cork track bed and foam track bed from Woodland Scenics. What do you Pros like better?

Once again Thanks! I'm gonna love this forum!

Stephen
Near Jamestown CA home of the Back to the Future 3 train:

https://youtu.be/UswpJh6Zvd8


Stephen;

I'm glad to hear that you got your train running, and in the right direction too! :laugh:
This hobby can be quite confusing, when you first get into it. There is a learning curve for model railroading, just like anything else.
The links attached below my screen name, are to some articles that I've written for people just starting out, like you are now. I think they may help you understand things a bit better. I'm also going to recommend a pair of good books to you. They are, "Getting Started in Model Railroading" by Jeff Wilson, and "Basic DCC wiring" by Mike Polsgrove. You can order either, or both, from https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/products/books
The first book explains a lot, about many model railroading subjects, in clear, simple, text and many color photos. It should be a very different experience for you after your adventures with Bachmann's information sources. :laugh:
The second book tells you all you would ever likely need to know about DCC. Again, clear, simple explanations, and many photos.
When you get to the point where are ready to buy a DCC system, I recommend the NCE Powercab. It's simple to hook up, (two wires) simple to program, and simple to operate. All the electronics are in one piece, which you can hold in your hand. I use this system and I like it a lot.

Welcome to the forum!

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:

View attachment WHERE DO I START rev 4.pdf

View attachment 1 How to build a better first layout.pdf

View attachment 2 How to build a better first layout.pdf

View attachment 3 & 4 How to build a better first layout.pdf

View attachment 5 How to build a better first layout.pdf

View attachment 6 How to build a better first layout.pdf

View attachment All AboutTurnouts rev 4.pdf

View attachment MODEL RAILROADING ON A BUDGET.pdf

View attachment Model Railroad Terminology 2.2.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Traction Fan..

Thanks for the post! I just ordered the books you suggested. Like I said before, I'm looking forward to the help from this forum and sharing my trials and tribulations....Everyone here has been great!

Stephen.

Stephen
 

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Discussion Starter #19
P.S. I was wondering where I would have the space for a good layout.....I just replied my tenant is moving out of the studio apt. above my garage --- so after cleanup the real build begins---planning and 8 x 8 layout freestyle.
 
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