I don't know what code track your using but on my Code 83 I just went out and got some brown colored liquid nails and put a drop down then spread it out to a thin fine layer and push the track down. Works great and blends good.

If you go to the hardware store you could most likely get the same nails but longer if needed.

 

Have you tried a hat pin to hold the track until you glue it?

 

Jim Ive got almost the same situation, what Im doing is using some long pins my wife got from walmart. They have little orange balls on the top. Im assuming these are for dress making and pinning clothes. Its taking alot of pins, but Im getting the track laid and when I get it where I want it then I will mark it and use liquid nail to attach it permantly to my cork.

 

You could also use T pins, I used to use on balsa RC planes , most hobby shops would have them.

 

I, too would suggest t-pins, they are easy to use and work well in my experience

Third vote for t-pins here. Over the summer, I put together a temporary 2x8 switching layout. The base was 2" pink foam. All track was fastened using only t-pins. They did a great job holding everything in place.

When the time came for scavenging track to build my permanent layout in the fall, everything came apart as easily as it went together.
The best part is, now I have a used 2x8 baseboard that's still in good shape to be repurposed as an extension to the permanent layout.

 

I, too would suggest t-pins, they are easy to use and work well in my experience

 

Prebend the flext track to have it hold its shape close to your target curve ... Greg explains how in this thread:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=3931

TJ

 

Thanks a bunch guys, now I'm enthused about working on it again! That thread about bending a rail is great. I have code 100 flex track, not sure what brand. One rail slides out real easy and seems like it would slide back in with a radius bent into it just fine. I'll make a bending jig tomorrow if I get a chance. I have a small lathe and could make the fulcrum and stationary points with a shape to fit the side of the rail.
Jim S.

 

If you do the adjustable cam fulcrum like we discussed in that thread (as a hypothetical), do keep us posted on how it turns out. I'd love to see the thinking in action.

Cheers,

TJ

 

I do have some tee pins from rc planes, I'll try them tonight. It seems like that flex track would keep trying to straighten itself out though.
Today I started to make a bending jig with rollers, I found some small ball bearings and aluminum round stock laying around. I didn't finish cause I wanted some shoulder bolts and couldn't find any. Have to wait till Monday when Fastenall opens I suppose. I know I'm way overengineering that jig, but I guess that's what being retired is all about.

 

No one else has jumped on this, so I will, why don't you just use cheap latex caulk, that’s what I use, to hold the track down.
Someone mentioned liquid nails, but that will super permanently bond to both the ties, track, roadbed and base, making almost anything that it comes in contact with permanently stuck.
The latex caulking will allow you to be able to remove the track and move it without destroying it.
The hat tack pins will hold it in place long enough for the caulking to dry and hold the rail.
Unless you’re trying to bend the rails more than 18" rad. you shouldn’t have to pre bend the rails for it to stay in place either.

 

I'll work on the caulk and pin method for the larger outside run, but I guess there will be some tighter radius stuff in the inside too. I should at least get a main loop done so I can see my train go more than just a few feet back and forth.
I bought a E7 Locomotive - Proto 2000 and a NCE controller and figured out at least how to make it run and blow the whistle. That's a start!
This is a really nice forum, I appreciate the advice.

 

I used the T-Pins and liquid nails method as mentioned before. I've also relocated some track and foam roadbed after the liquid nails had set and havent had a problem yet with track or roadbed being damaged. You have to use Liquid Nails for Projects. It's the one with the red band at the top. DONT use the Liquid Nails with the wood grain label. It has a stronger bond. Much stronger than you would ever need for securing track. Just make sure you also put some weight on it while it cures.