Model Train Forum banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
A few years ago I splurged and purchased the 2018 Walthers catalog, signifying the end of a 30 year hiatus from
model railroading. Previously my son and I built a N scale folded figure 8 layout on a hollow core door. It was a modest
setup with an overpass, a couple of sidings, and the requisite tunnel made of crumpled newspaper and strips of paper towels dipped in plaster.

This time I selected HO and after many sketches on graph paper I decided on a 5 ft x 10 ft footprint which fit the space available. I stayed with the folded figure 8 configuration with the addition of a yard, passing siding, industry spurs, and a track which also served as a reversing loop. 2" foam insulation on top of a L girder frame met my requirements for a mostly flat trackplan which incorporated some areas of water.

I used Atlas code 100 flex track. Push pins were used to position the track and turnouts as the pike started to materialize. With the track completed I wanted to run trains to validate my track laying efforts. With a tag sale DC GP40 and some borrowed freight and passenger cars I was all set for a maiden run. There was only one problem. How do I keep the track and turnouts in position without the push pins. I had a small container of 17 x 3/4" nails. They were just the right size to fit the holes in the ties. Since I only had about 20 nails I made a trip to the local home improvement store and purchased a container. The new nails would not fit through the holes in the ties. New ones-made in China vs the old ones-made in USA. Time for plan B.

Scrounging around my wood working area I came across 1-1/4" nails for my pneumatic brad nailer. They are of pyramid shape and fit snugly in the holes in the ties. They are easily pushed in most of the way with my finger and finished with a nail set. A touch on the nailhead with a black Sharpie makes the nail barely discernible. Originally I was just going to use the brad nails while I ran and debugged the trackwork. At one point I decided to electrically isolate the mainline section which is parallel to the isolated passing siding. Pop out some nails, pull up some track and replace track joiners with insulated joiners, replace track, and replace the nails. In the past 2 years, the nails held in the foam without loosening.
549384
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,442 Posts
That’s a pretty good tip for HO. I thought you would need to glue track to foam which would make it hard to remove. I am an O gauger and screw the track directly to plywood. Also easy to remove…until I apply ballast and glue that in place. I wonder if any other HO folks have tried your method.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top