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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hi,
After your debate... I've made decision to remove reverse loops. So I think to create high functionally layout - "playing table" but in same time as simple as possible.

Below my last variant of the layout:



Three things you might want to do to help your knowledge of the hobby: purchase an issue or two of Model Railroader magazine. Look at the advertising, too.
Yea... in an advertisement all always is perfect ;)
 

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I sure am sorry we caused you to move away from your original layout.
I thought it had enjoyable running features.

The current drawing shows another very interesting layout. Lots of yard
tracks for switching. Any additional spurs you could add would
make your switching sessions more interesting.

Don
 

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I directed your attention to the advertising because it's a good way to see what is available. Of course, once you know that, you have to do some research to see whether it lives up to its claims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I sure am sorry we caused you to move away from your original layout.
No, thank you all for the warning about reverse loop. I just forget about this. And I think that this variant will be may be better because I have more space for spurs etc.
My goal #1 is functional layout for game. It's mean that "we need to transport this, transport that, uploading in one place and bring to another. So I need lot of different "services" etc.
Additionally I'd like to use DCC because we can use more than 1 train. So I plan to use at least 2 trains. For example one train is going but another is waiting on a siding line (for passing other train) etc.
I directed your attention to the advertising because it's a good way to see what is available. Of course, once you know that, you have to do some research to see whether it lives up to its claims.
Actually I have several magazines Model railroader. It is very interesting and nice magazine but don't forget that it is commercial thing... For example I make traffic lights by myself but in local store they offer me to buy it. And I sure that lot of person here make lot of such things by themselves, I sure... So I came here to this forum to receive personal opinions and experience. I remember what did you say about engines and such things VERY important for me particularly I limited in budget.

I have another question regarding space between tracks after turnouts. I have no idea which space I need to left there (see picture below). Do I need to use 1" insertions between turnouts (see the pic):
 

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Actually I have several magazines Model railroader. It is very interesting and nice magazine but don't forget that it is commercial thing... For example I make traffic lights by myself but in local store they offer me to buy it. And I sure that lot of person here make lot of such things by themselves, I sure... So I came here to this forum to receive personal opinions and experience. I remember what did you say about engines and such things VERY important for me particularly I limited in budget.

I have another question regarding space between tracks after turnouts. I have no idea which space I need to left there (see picture below). Do I need to use 1" insertions between turnouts (see the pic):
We may be losing something in the translation here. I'm not suggesting that you go buy anything. Just about everything you want on your layout can be scratchbuilt (built by the model railroader) if you so desire, and can find the parts. It's ALWAYS about the tradeoff between buy and build, or cost and time. However, you have made comments to suggest that you don't know what's available, and what better way to find out what's available than to research the companies and products? I buy a paper Walthers catalog every single year (at $16 US), just because I like to see everything that is available (with a couple of exceptions). I'm on a limited budget too, but I keep a list of what I want, and buy it when I can afford it.

For track spacing, Don's link has the link to the NMRA site, which will give you the standards. Whether you NEED to do something is a matter of what you're willing to risk. The 1" straight segments between turnouts are not essential, but the more straight track you have between turnouts, especially ones that go in opposite directions, the better your trains will run. Ideally (space permitting), a loco or car should be fully on a piece of straight track before it starts to turn again, but most of us don't have that kind of space available. Generally, the longer your equipment, the more straight track you need between turnouts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Here is a lot of discussion of track spacing. Might
find what you want here.
...Don's link has the link to the NMRA site, which will give you the standards. Whether you NEED to do something is a matter of what you're willing to risk. The 1" straight segments between turnouts are not essential
At the first thank you Don for the link...

Today I did some experiments and THEN reproduced it in program SCARM. Just placed two parallel straight tracks and results you can see on the picture below:

As you see cars will touch each other when space ~1.46"! Then ballasts will touch each other when space 1.83". When we do not use the insertion after an turnout space will be 1.78" so ballasts will intersect each other (I will use separated ballasts). BTW if you will see at the "composition" of turnouts at the bottom of the picture you see that we need ~0.75 insertion to match tracks.
After this I concluded that I need use minimum insertion 0.75 but found that 1" easily to buy. :)
Don't forget we're speaking about Atlas HO-100 turnouts #4.


Other question.
Don occasionally I found on this forum that you use your "self invented" connection traffic lights with turnouts. Could you draw a scheme or give me picture of that.
 

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I think the language barrier got us again. If you want to build your track to NMRA standards, which is an good idea, for the reasons you discovered, then you need to achieve the recommended separation between tracks. That means your turnouts may need additional pieces separating them to achieve that distance, depending on the make and model of your turnouts. But you do not need to insert that one inch piece next to every turnout on your layout.
 

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At the first thank you Don for the link...




Other question.
Don occasionally I found on this forum that you use your "self invented" connection traffic lights with turnouts. Could you draw a scheme or give me picture of that.
I'm not certain of the term 'traffic lights' related to turnouts but I do have
a 2 transistor circuit that takes a feed from the panel point position LED indicators
on one of my main tracks that has 4 turnouts in it. A bridge type
block signal with a red/green LED is green as long as the points of all
turnouts are set for a clear path. If any one is set to 'divert' the LED
will show red. If that is what you want, I'll try to find the circuit. It's
here on the Forum.

Also, in my yards, I use a diode matrix that makes possible a one button
push to set all turnouts for a clear path to each yard track. That makes
switching session a lot easier. It is much easier to wire than it sounds.
It uses only a good number of diodes and a Capacitor Discharge Unit.

Don
 

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I believe when he says traffic lights, he is referring to signals. The word "signau" in French, which ironically is very close to our word "signal", is often translated as "traffic light". Granted, I speak the Walloon dialect of French, which is spoken in Belgium, whereas he speaks the French Canadian dialect, but I'll put money on that one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Yes, my English is not perfect... but according my knowledge below in the picture below you can see dwarf traffic light. :)


On my old layout I have 4 traffic lights which are controlled by Atlas snap relays. But I don't like it. So what kind of control the traffic lights you can suggest me?
 

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Definitely NOT picking on your English. Trust me, I know how hard a second language can be.

However, at least in American English, traffic lights control automobiles exclusively (hence Don's confusion). The similar lights that regulate train movements are called signals.
 

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There are switches with built in electronics that can be ordered
for either twin coil solenoid or Tortoise type turnout motors. These
switches in addition to throwing the points will control the LEDs
in your Dwarf Signals and/or panel board.

Here is the link to them:

http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/751D.HTM

And, as I mentioned, if you want any of your drawfs
to show Green when ALL turnouts in a path are
set for clear, and red if ANY one of them
is set to divert, I have a 2 transistor circuit that you
could use.

Don
 

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I noticed in your excellent video that when one
of your kids operated a turnout that a trackside
signal changed. Did you use the 751D turnout
motor control switches?

Don
 

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This is a really nice layout! Seems to have a lot of functionality with places to go and things to do, yet its all in a fold up table a little smaller than a ping pong table. It just looks like it fun to operate:appl:
 

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Hi, after reading the whole thread i did not see any dimensions listed. I am really interested in this layout. I would like to know the dimensions of this layout if possible.
 

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Unfortunately, this thread is almost a year and a half old, and neither of the guys posting track plans has been around for a while.

It looks like 5'x10', with 18" radius curves and either Atlas Snap Switches or #4 turnouts.

If you like it, though, use it for inspiration and lay out your own version, either on graph paper or using track planning software (my personal favorite is AnyRail, but there are lots of choices).
 
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