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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone! I am an O gauge guy from way back and recently started an HO layout. I have a couple of questions that I am hoping that the forum can help with.:

* I have an Atlas turntable that I want to use my Bachmann DC controller the power the turntable motor. I noticed that the motor assembly has bosses for both the red and black wire but my DC controller has a plug with a double set of red wires on it, how do I know which wire connects to which connection on the motor assembly. Or do I want to use the wire pinchers on the top of the controller to run wires to the motor connections? If so, which side goes to the motor connections? I am worried about connecting it wrong and burning out the motor.

* Running power to the 2 wire mounts on either side of the turntable that receive soldered wires from the rails send power to the turntable rails, I am a bit confused. Does it matter which rail side connects to the turntable mounts? Is it a question of just picking a rail for each side and then follow that positioning throughout the layout? I know I over-think things like this.

* In trying to address my DCC locomotives using my Bachmann EZ Command controller, I am following the instructions and I get the locomotive to accept the address (it slightly moves back and forth as the instructions say) but when I turn on the power, the locomotives do not move. Not sure what is going on. This is all occurring on a test track straight with a re-railer on one end and a bumper on the other. I can, however, get the locomotives to move using just the Bachmann DC controller which I find odd as the locomotives are Atlas and Bachmann DCC locomotives.

* I am using all Atlas tracks and remote turnout switches but I do not want to use Atlas switch controllers. I want to build a rail yard control panel with the turnout switches controlled by buttons. I know this is asking a lot but can someone let me know what I need to buy, where they can be bought and how the switches get power? Furthermore how the buttons get wired by position on the poles? I hope this makes sense.

I have really enjoyed scratch building buildings and doing the track and cork bed work but I feel like the electrical part is confusing at best but I am stoked to learn. So far, it has been a blast.

Thanks!
John
 

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Hi everyone! I am an O gauge guy from way back and recently started an HO layout. I have a couple of questions that I am hoping that the forum can help with.:

* I have an Atlas turntable that I want to use my Bachmann DC controller the power the turntable motor. I noticed that the motor assembly has bosses for both the red and black wire but my DC controller has a plug with a double set of red wires on it, how do I know which wire connects to which connection on the motor assembly. Or do I want to use the wire pinchers on the top of the controller to run wires to the motor connections? If so, which side goes to the motor connections? I am worried about connecting it wrong and burning out the motor.

* Running power to the 2 wire mounts on either side of the turntable that receive soldered wires from the rails send power to the turntable rails, I am a bit confused. Does it matter which rail side connects to the turntable mounts? Is it a question of just picking a rail for each side and then follow that positioning throughout the layout? I know I over-think things like this.

* In trying to address my DCC locomotives using my Bachmann EZ Command controller, I am following the instructions and I get the locomotive to accept the address (it slightly moves back and forth as the instructions say) but when I turn on the power, the locomotives do not move. Not sure what is going on. This is all occurring on a test track straight with a re-railer on one end and a bumper on the other. I can, however, get the locomotives to move using just the Bachmann DC controller which I find odd as the locomotives are Atlas and Bachmann DCC locomotives.

* I am using all Atlas tracks and remote turnout switches but I do not want to use Atlas switch controllers. I want to build a rail yard control panel with the turnout switches controlled by buttons. I know this is asking a lot but can someone let me know what I need to buy, where they can be bought and how the switches get power? Furthermore how the buttons get wired by position on the poles? I hope this makes sense.

I have really enjoyed scratch building buildings and doing the track and cork bed work but I feel like the electrical part is confusing at best but I am stoked to learn. So far, it has been a blast.

Thanks!
John
Hi everyone! I am an O gauge guy from way back and recently started an HO layout. I have a couple of questions that I am hoping that the forum can help with.:

* I have an Atlas turntable that I want to use my Bachmann DC controller the power the turntable motor. I noticed that the motor assembly has bosses for both the red and black wire but my DC controller has a plug with a double set of red wires on it, how do I know which wire connects to which connection on the motor assembly. Or do I want to use the wire pinchers on the top of the controller to run wires to the motor connections? If so, which side goes to the motor connections? I am worried about connecting it wrong and burning out the motor.

* Running power to the 2 wire mounts on either side of the turntable that receive soldered wires from the rails send power to the turntable rails, I am a bit confused. Does it matter which rail side connects to the turntable mounts? Is it a question of just picking a rail for each side and then follow that positioning throughout the layout? I know I over-think things like this.

* In trying to address my DCC locomotives using my Bachmann EZ Command controller, I am following the instructions and I get the locomotive to accept the address (it slightly moves back and forth as the instructions say) but when I turn on the power, the locomotives do not move. Not sure what is going on. This is all occurring on a test track straight with a re-railer on one end and a bumper on the other. I can, however, get the locomotives to move using just the Bachmann DC controller which I find odd as the locomotives are Atlas and Bachmann DCC locomotives.

* I am using all Atlas tracks and remote turnout switches but I do not want to use Atlas switch controllers. I want to build a rail yard control panel with the turnout switches controlled by buttons. I know this is asking a lot but can someone let me know what I need to buy, where they can be bought and how the switches get power? Furthermore how the buttons get wired by position on the poles? I hope this makes sense.

I have really enjoyed scratch building buildings and doing the track and cork bed work but I feel like the electrical part is confusing at best but I am stoked to learn. So far, it has been a blast.

Thanks!
John
The Bachmann EZ DCC system is quite simple to use.

You say the loco acknowledged your change. But then the loco
does not move. The EZ controller has a yellow button that restores
the system to train control. Did you press it?

The system has 10 loco buttons. You must push the button corresponding
to the 2 digit number you selected. Did you press that before you raised
the speed control?

Did you try operating the loco BEFORE you attempted the change. New
locos will have the address as 3, so you would press the 3 button.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #3
DonR: yes, I pressed the yellow button after it acknowledged the change. It sill does not move. I am very close to ditching the DCC stuff and running DC as it works every time
 

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DonR: yes, I pressed the yellow button after it acknowledged the change. It sill does not move. I am very close to ditching the DCC stuff and running DC as it works every time

To make the train run you must press the number button on the controller that
corresponds with the number you set for your loco...the loco likely came with
address 3...what number did you change it to?

You likely can get going by simply pressing button 1, then raise the speed control.
Do that with 2, 3, 4 and so on until you find the one that operates your loco.
Then mark that loco on the tab on your controller.

If none of them work you may have accidentally set something wrong.
Consult your manual. It will tell you how to do a factory reset.

I know something like this can be frustrating, but believe us, you will
love DCC once your get it going...it is truly much easier to use than DC
or your old 3 rail AC trains. I have had both of those, but the fun and
ease of use of my EZ system far surpasses that of the old fashioned
trains. My EZ system controled my 10 DCC locos
for years. Nary a problem running 2 and 3 trains at the same time.

Don
 

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Hi everyone! I am an O gauge guy from way back and recently started an HO layout. I have a couple of questions that I am hoping that the forum can help with.:

* I have an Atlas turntable that I want to use my Bachmann DC controller the power the turntable motor. I noticed that the motor assembly has bosses for both the red and black wire but my DC controller has a plug with a double set of red wires on it, how do I know which wire connects to which connection on the motor assembly. Or do I want to use the wire pinchers on the top of the controller to run wires to the motor connections? If so, which side goes to the motor connections? I am worried about connecting it wrong and burning out the motor.

* Running power to the 2 wire mounts on either side of the turntable that receive soldered wires from the rails send power to the turntable rails, I am a bit confused. Does it matter which rail side connects to the turntable mounts? Is it a question of just picking a rail for each side and then follow that positioning throughout the layout? I know I over-think things like this.

* In trying to address my DCC locomotives using my Bachmann EZ Command controller, I am following the instructions and I get the locomotive to accept the address (it slightly moves back and forth as the instructions say) but when I turn on the power, the locomotives do not move. Not sure what is going on. This is all occurring on a test track straight with a re-railer on one end and a bumper on the other. I can, however, get the locomotives to move using just the Bachmann DC controller which I find odd as the locomotives are Atlas and Bachmann DCC locomotives.

* I am using all Atlas tracks and remote turnout switches but I do not want to use Atlas switch controllers. I want to build a rail yard control panel with the turnout switches controlled by buttons. I know this is asking a lot but can someone let me know what I need to buy, where they can be bought and how the switches get power? Furthermore how the buttons get wired by position on the poles? I hope this makes sense.

I have really enjoyed scratch building buildings and doing the track and cork bed work but I feel like the electrical part is confusing at best but I am stoked to learn. So far, it has been a blast.

Thanks!
John

cubalz;

On your turntable question, it would help if you post a photo of the turntable. I've been in N-scale for over 40 years, so my HO memories are very old. I did have an Atlas HO turntable long ago though. (Atlas also makes an N-scale model of the same turntable, but I don't use one.)
It was an unusual, flat, whole-thing-above-the-table, design. There were lower spots spaced around the plastic rim that would accept a piece of HO track. It could be hand cranked or motor driven. The turning action was a bit unusual, in that the turntable would rotate from track 1 to track 2, and then stop while you (or the motor) moved the internal gears enough for the turntable to rotate from track 2 over to track 3. Does that sound like what you have? If so, there is one good point, and several not-so-good points about that model of turntable. The good point (and also one of the "bad" points depending on the owner's attitude) is the simple, accurate, and rock-solid, indexing system built into the mechanism. The stop/start motion of the turntable is due to a cam arrangement that locks the rotating track of the turntable in line with one of the feeder tracks. That motion itself is disliked by many, since it's not like the continuous, smoother, motion of a real turntable, that is also a feature of other model turntables. Another bad point is the Atlas motorizing kit. It's incredibly NOISY! The motorizing kit looks like a small shed, and screws on to the rest of the turntable. The "shed" is removable and there is a simple DC motor inside. My old one had a rubber band drive belt at either end. The two rubber bands drove a worm gear that moved the gearing of the turntable.
The motor is nothing fancy, just an open frame motor that runs on straight DC and reverses direction by having the two wires that feed it swapped. So it won't matter which wire from a DC power pack you attach to which terminal on the motor unit. You won't burn out the motor, it will just run in reverse, or forward, depending on which wire goes on which terminal.

I'm not sure what you mean by "my Bachmann DC controller." If it is a Bachmann version of a plain old DC power pack, then you can use it to power the turntable. The wire colors won't matter. You may have to cut the plug off the power pack's cord and connect the two wires to the motorizing unit. Then turn the speed control on the power pack 1/2 way up, and the turntable motor should run. The direction switch on the power pack should reverse the direction of turntable rotation.

On the other hand, If by "my Bachmann DC controller" you are, in any way, referring to trying to run the turntable with voltage from your Bachmann EZ command DCC controller, then absolutely DO NOT do that. The DCC system is only for powering & controlling trains.
It is possible to CONTROL accessories like turntables, and turnouts, with your DCC system, but the actual electricity to POWER them should come from a different source, like an old power pack, or one of those little black "wall wart" plug in power supplies used to recharge cell phones. Also, controlling accessories with a DCC system requires you to buy and use "stationary DCC decoders" for each accessory you want to control.

Not using those "blue button" controls that come with Atlas "Snap Switch" turnouts is a good idea. Those blue buttons are not well made, and have been known to short out internally and destroy the coils in the Atlas turnout. You could use buttons, yes, but something better is available. It's the Stapleton 751D turnout control. The advantage is that the Stapleton has a CDU (Capacitive Discharge Unit) built in. It's also a much better quality control that those blue buttons.
If you decide to use buttons on a control panel track diagram, then ordinary doorbell type buttons will work. You will need two buttons per each turnout. The power to operate your turnouts should come from a power source that is separate from your EZ command DCC system. Again, and old DC power pack, or wall wart power supply will work. You should also use a CDU to power the turnouts. You can build one yourself quite easily. DonR has been successfully operating his turnouts with his own home brew CDU for years. He can furnish a diagram. So what the heck is this "CDU" thing for anyway?
The twin-coil switch machines in your Atlas turnouts can have their coils burned out very easily. If you hold a button down for more that two seconds, or if a button shorts, the coil will go up in smoke. The CDU protects your turnouts by making it impossible to melt a coil. This is true even if someone holds the button down for an hour, or if one of the buttons shorts out. A CDU is cheap insurance to protect your turnouts. It also gives a little power boost to those quite weak Atlas switch machines.

Wiring buttons for turnouts is not hard. Those Atlas switch machines each have three wires coming out of them. The center, black, wire is the common wire. All the center wires, from all your turnouts, should be connected to each other, and to one of the output terminals of a CDU, or power supply. The two outer wires (red & green? If I remember correctly?) are each factory-wired to one of the two coils inside the Atlas switch machine. Applying power to one of those wires for a second, will cause the points of the turnout to move one way. Applying power to the other wire for a second, will move the turnout's points the opposite way.
On your control panel, you will need to connect one of those outside wires to one of the two buttons you will use to control the turnout. The other outside wire goes to the other button for that same turnout.
Meanwhile, back at the CDU, remember we had two output terminals? One of them we already connected to all the black common wires. The other output terminal needs to be connected to each & every turnout button on your control panel. Every button will have a turnout wire connected to one side, and now this CDU output wire connected to the other side of each button. When you push a button power flows from the output of the CDU into one outside wire of the particular turnout that button controls. The power enters the coil, causing the points to move, and then flows out of that coil, into the black common wire, and back into the CDU. Pushing the other button will energise the opposite coil in that turnout and cause the points to move to the other route through the turnout.

That's a lot harder to describe verbally, and doubtless harder for you to understand, than using a diagram would be. I strongly recommend you get a good book on the subject from Kalmbach Hobby Store The book "How to Wire your Model Railroad" should be a great help to you.

As for where to get electronic parts, I use, and recommend, www.allelectronics.com
Other forum members can recommend their own favorite sources.

The files attached below are some of the many that I have written for new model railroaders building their first layout. While you're not new, If your O-gage experience was with O-gage AC three rail, then HO-scale two-rail DC wiring is different, so you may find some useful info.

Good Luck, & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 😊
 

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For controlling your turnouts via pushbuttons, I recommend that you look at the servo-based offerings from Tam Valley Depot. I've been using them for years. They are plug and play, and ridiculously simple to install, align, and operate.

If you decide to go this route, I can help you determine what you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you so much Traction Fan! I asked my wife to print all of that information out so I can go over it down at my layout. I really appreciate you taking the time to provide this to me.
 
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