Good Morning Big ED. Yes Sir, I can't get two sections of track to fit snugly together. It's O gauge. The pins are what came with my new track. I don't know If there are shorter pins. I read someplace on the WEB that I should use an Awl to 'bore' out the section I'm trying to put together. Then squeeze the rail back together. Does that sound right? Thank you very much ED.
Some of the pins are showing quite a bit, I need to get the sections together. I didn't want to bore the rails. Pushing them together is impossible. Have a great day.I think if you spread the holes out with an awl or anything else, you will be sorry. I use a small block of wood and "tap" it with something like tracK pliers keeping the wood block in contact with the track on the opposite end. It works with curves OK but it takes some finesse. Tap until the outer tubes come in contact with each other. The joint on new track you almost can't see. loose joints are enough trouble with making good electrical connections and the noise when wheel roll over them- (I like the extra clickity clack) you wont ever be sorry with tight joints!!Good Morning Big ED. Yes Sir, I can't get two sections of track to fit snugly together. It's O gauge. The pins are what came with my new track. I don't know If there are shorter pins. I read someplace on the WEB that I should use an Awl to 'bore' out the section I'm trying to put together. Then squeeze the rail back together. Does that sound right? Thank you very much ED.
I use the pin to shape the track and then crimp with the track pliers. Pull the pin out and put them together.John- do those pliers have the crimp nipple that crimps the tube to make the detent to "hold" the pin in place? I think the factory used a crimp on the stationary end of track sections so the pins would stay put when pulling apart the sections and prevent the pin from going too far in to the tube when connecting sections. That factory crimp would be nice to freshen up when cleaning track and pins.Don't try to expand the hole, that's counterproductive. I personally use track pliers to crimp the track and then tap the pins in.
First, I clean the inside of any used track with a small rotary stainless brush, then I use Deoxit D5 to assist in conductivity of the joints.
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I don't have a lot of issues just getting the pins in tight. For the "fixed" pins, I crimp with the track pliers without a pin, then tap the pin in, they are pretty snug that way.
Every question I've asked at the board has been answered so fast! What a great place this is for us rail heads. All Aboard!
and probably a few bandaids?A better picture of the track pliers,
Notice the hole at the tip, this is to tighten up (snug) the rail where the pin is if it is too loose.
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New rail goes together tough, I use brute strength and a few choice words.
The words help.
Funny! Your so right, the new track rails are TIGHT! It does take some doing to get the sections together. The curves seem to be super tight. Those are my problem.
I tried to find it to post.
Would that be 10 scale miles or 10 real miles?I tried to find it to post.
I don't think it is worth the money unless you are laying 10 miles of track.
