[ElSimon]

Okay after too many years I am back to trains. I had HO as a boy 'cause that is what dad had. I am now starting all new with N scale. I have designed the layout (3 levels ). The board was built last Saturday. It is 3' x 7'. The sides are 5 1/2" high to provide the rigidness I need. I then laid a piece of 1" thick pink foam on the deck and painted the entire inside a dark green. I am now ready to start laying track. I have cork board that I need to attach first and then the track itself.

My current dillema is how do I attach the cork and track down while I lay it all out? I know I will have more questions as I go along but that is where I am stuck right now. I need the flexibility to be able to adjust the track as I lay it and move it along. Some of the risers will be foam slopes and some will be trussels over chasms and canyons.pictures as I go along.

Yes I will be taking pictures as I go along.

 

[tjcruiser]

For roughing out your layout, use the track itself, including FlexTrack sections, if you have any. Temporarily tape the track to your board, and fiddle with the positioning until you're generally satisfied.

Then, (via great gizmo tip from TwoRail here on the forum) use a rolling-stock car to make a little jig ... tape or tack-glue a little wood block (of sorts) to the side of the car with a marker taped vertically to that. You want to position the marker such that it's the same distance away from the rails as would be the outside edge of the cork bed. Then, use the car/marker jig to mark an outline of the cork bed position on your board. You'll likely only have to mark one side of the cord bed.

Now, pull up your (temporary) track. Glue the cork bed to the board ... hot glue usually works OK. You'll find that the typically cork that comes in left/right halves bends quite well to follow track curves. Glue one side of the cork down, a bit at a time, following your pre-marked edge line. After that's down, glue down the mating side, being careful to tuck and position it's inner/mating edge right next to the other half.

You can cut needed wedges and such out of the same insulation foam. However, check your local hobby store ... Woodland Scenics makes several sets of pre-cut wedge / ramps that are available in various incline grades.

Good luck!

TJ

 

[ElSimon]

What about pins? Can I use straight pins to secure the bed and track down? Do people normally glue the bed and track down? I would think that you would want to have a bit of flexibility to move track in the future. Maybe I am over thinking this. As I have mentioned I design control valves. I am always in an engineer mindset. The mechanical engineer type not train engineer. I have been trained (pun intended) to always look at things and see how to make them better. Because of that I sometimes have a hard time making things too permanent.

One of the reasons I have for not gluing the bed and track down is I don't plan on doing the scenery for a while. It could be several months or even years before I get that far. My first intent is get a layout running. I may after I have the train running decide to change a few things before I had scenery. If I glue everything down how hard is it to change. I also remember a few times where we had to change my dad's layout. He only had it nailed down to the plywood. So we could pull the nails and make the adjustments we needed.

I also forgot to mention that I am more of a traditionalist. I plan on making my wooden trussles. I also do not plan on converting to DCC.

 

[BNSF Fan]

Welcome ElSimon. Will be waiting to see pics of your progress. For temporarily laying track and roadbed, you can use T-pins, I think they are called. You can find them at Wal-Mart in the sewing section, or any sewing store. They work great in the foam. As for laying the track and roadbed more permanetly, I used a cheap($1.79 a tube) vinyl latex caulk. Just outline the road bed when you have it where you want it then spread out the caulk with a putty knife. Again, use the pins to hold it while the caulk sets up. Then do the same for the track, but don't apply it so thick that the caulk pushes up to far between the ties. If you need to make a change afterward, it does come up easily enough using a putty knife to pry it up. Have fun.

 

[Rocky Mountian]

Those who wonder will find

Good info, I was wondering how to go about that too.

 

[tjcruiser]

Good advice re: "T-pins" from N&O above.

Depending upon the tightness of your radii, you may find that the pins alone don't have enough lateral support to hold the cork bed in your desired contour. In that case, I'd suggest pins per the above, but the occasional dab of hot glue which will give you quick-bond grab, but can be generally easily pryed apart for track/bed relocation down the road. Little dabs will do ya'!

TJ

 

[ElSimon]

Bought some straight pins at Wally-World. I plan on spending some time on the layout this long weekend. I plan on using foam ramps between levels, similar to Woodland Scenics products. For the time being I will not have the cuts for future bridges. It should be easy enough to cut out the foam later and add the trussles.

Here are a couple more questions related the this thread:
1. What is the best way to cut track? I have a lot (45-50 lengths) of flex track.
2. Does anyone have plans or good/bad things that work/didn't on building trussles? I am planning on these being as realistic as possible so I would like to build these from scratch. What materials work best? What is the best way to cut the timbers? I have a full size contractors table saw but I think I would be cutting out more material than I would be leaving. I also would not have the control I think I need.
3. Tonight I finish prepping the table. Tomorrow the first track will go down! I will take pictures and post them. I get the feeling I am missing something. Does anyone have any ideas that will help me? OR things I need to watch out for.

El Simon

 

[Stillakid]

Cutters

Considering the small scale you're working with, and likely using basswood/balsa, look for these at your LHS or Craft Store. Bought this at a close out sale for $12. Hope that helps
Jim

View attachment 3027

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[ElSimon]

Actually I was planning on using some pine I had left over from a larger project. I am looking for a small hobby table saw (small / thin blade, low rpm, better control, less waste). I have heard of them but don't remember seeing one. Will start looking on ebay, Harbour Freight, etc.

Stillakid, Do you use your cutter to cut your track? Is this what most models use?

 

[tjcruiser]

ElSimon,

I cut track with an abrasive wheel spinning on a Dremel. Works OK for me.

Try looking at MicroMark for small hobby-style table saws. I have their tilting saw ... works OK, though I've had to replace an electronic controller at one point. Not as precise for rip thickness tolerances as some other more expensive saws I've seen, but those typically do not tilt.

http://www.micromark.com/

TJ

 

[Reckers]

I don't know how high-tech you want to get, but $15 to $20 will usually get you a set of Xacto-type knives. There are several handles, one or more of which will take a fine saw blade. There are also small miterboxes that match them. If you want to go electric but still keep the cost down, you might want to check out table-top scroll saws.

 

[Stillakid]

The cutteres are for working with wood.

 

[Reckers]

Those look like nice cutters. How accurately does it cut the angles? Any crushing of the wood?

 

[Stillakid]

Len, they do a nice job. I used them on my Oatmeal tower just to see how they handled. I really want to try and build a boxcar for my AF set, but think that might be for the fall. The LHS where I bought these had a stick built home(HO) made with using just these cutters and it was impressive. They were getting rid of all their stock of wood and cutters, said he didn't have enough customers intersested?????

 

[ElSimon]

So what does everyone else use to cut track and what do I need to do it after it is cut to prep the joints? I like the idea of the clickety clack sound but not the sound of a derailment. I had a Dremel type tool...but I also have sons. It was borrowed and the borrower claimed he returned it. That was only a couple of months ago. I guess I need to buy another one and possibly a soldering iron. There goes by budget for rolling stock.

 

[Big Ed]

Nothing better then a nice cutter for clean cuts on N scale track.:thumbsup:
They do sell a rail cutting pliers like tool.


http://fiferhobbysu770.corecommerce.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=13935


This is a good seller I will vouch for him. I know him from a different site.
Do a search for the rail cutters and you will come up with a bunch of different brands.

 

[tjcruiser]

Whether for cutting track or a billion other things ... ya' gotta get that Dremel back with a host of attachments. I use mine ALL the time working on these train things.

Give "Junior" a smack upside the head! "But DAAADDDD!!!"

TJ

 

[ElSimon]

I have a real Dremel but the armature died after about a year of periodical use. I have kept it just in case.... Perhaps I will get it out in the morning and see what I can figure out with it. The replacement I bought at Harbour Freight. Not the highest quality but it has only been used a couple of times. My son borrowed it to work on his senior project. He just graduated with his Mechanical Engineer degree. I will ask him again tomorrow if he has found it yet. I may end up at HF and buy another one. They are only about $20.00.

 

[tjcruiser]

These Dremel repair tips may help ...

http://messageboard.dremel.com/Topic4517-28-1.aspx

Do you know for sure if the armature windings are bad? Maybe it's just the brushes, which can be easily replaced.

TJ

PS -- Link says "There is a 5 year warranty on Dremels."

 

[ElSimon]

Here are a few pictures. I have not attached the track yet. I WILL start that tomorrow, I hope. I need to get a few things from the hobby store in the morning if they are open.

I also am building a cheat guide. I have a piece of 3/16" plexiglass that I have drawn a 11.00 dia. circle on. I am going to cut it out and put a handle in the middle of it. I will use this to gauge the inside of the inside rail of a curve. This will give me the tightest radius I want and it will also make sure that the radii are smooth. I am using all flex track except the re-railers, turnouts and such.

Here is today's questions (I know these will bring LOTS of opinions):
1. How close to the outside of my layout board do I want the track?
2. In my side yards how close should I lay the track?
3. Should I put the re-railers at the beginning or tail end of the siding?
4. What type of uncoupler is recommended?

Thanks again for all the support.