[Stillakid]

But ever since I joined this site and got around Reckers, It's all gone!:laugh:

Picked this up on vacation. Wife is convinced I need to go in for an in depth mental evaluation. Perhaps she's right!:laugh::laugh::laugh:

She then added that perhaps a trip to the, "Hardware Store" might help to calm my nerves. RIGHT:thumbsdown:


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[tjcruiser]

What is that "thing" ???

Train motor meets Frankenstein meets The Borg from Star Trek ???

And as far as the wife is concerned, I'll offer four words of advice:

"Cubic Zirconia, Don't Tell" :thumbsup:

TJ

 

[Reckers]

I don't see what the problem is, Jim. The e-unit looks fine to me!

 

[T-Man]

The Great Tarnak sees epoxy in your future.

 

[imatt88]

Holy crap Jim, looks like it blew up!:laugh:

 

[tjcruiser]

Jim,

Whatever you do, do NOT try to board a plane with that thing in your carry-on pack. The TSA guys would be all over you questioning why you were trying to carry a bomb onto the plane!

TJ

 

[Stillakid]

$12 worth of aggravation!

That, "Bundle of Joy", is a American Flyer 300.

T-man, will epoxy fix that bakelite, brush plate? All the parts are there, but the brush cylinder is on the broken side is very loose. Lock-tite?

The armature looked like it had been painted with flat black. Took me an hour to clean it up without destroying the wires.

Reckers, the "reverse-unit", while all intact, is full of grease and there was some rust present. I have an extra one, but will try to salvage this one first. It's already in pieces and has been cleaned, sanded and the 2 finger units also have been cleaned and adjusted.

The Engine shell is perfect, but will need to be stripped and painted. wish I could say the same about the Tender. It's a mess The body has rust, as do the trucks. I'll have to remove them to paint and install all new truck rivets, insulating bushings and washers. Wiring harness from tender to chassis is "toast!"

The drive wheels were all painted black I've cleaned up all the paint and the insulators look okay. No "choo-choo or Smoke", but still worth restoring. Who knows, maybe one of our new "S" buddies might be in need

TJ, never fly!!!!!!! I drive, or don't go:laugh::laugh::laugh:

 

[T-Man]

That, "Bundle of Joy", is a American Flyer 300.

T-man, will epoxy fix that bakelite, brush plate? All the parts are there, but the brush cylinder is on the broken side is very loose. Lock-tite?

:

I super glue the piece together. Maybe etch the crack and epoxy over. You need to check clearances, on where you can add some. It does have to fit back inside.

 

[Stillakid]

The cracked area

Bob, the 2 pieces come together perfectly. I've added pics and circled the area that is broken. There was quite a bit of grease on the piece. Would cleaning(soaking?) the pieces in Denatured Alcohol be the best way to prep them for gluing? What about using lock-tite on the 2 brush cylinders? Will it adhere to the metal and the bakelite?


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[T-Man]

I wouldn't soak it. Just wipe it clean. You can try locktite. Super glue would work too. The outside crack, after gluing, I would etch/groove with a cutting wheel. That give more of a contact surface for the epoxy. Make sure the tubes are high enough for clearance.


You may want to look into adding a wire brace. It could be epoxied on or drilled into the bakelite. or just encircle it. Since the sides are open you may have to do this.

 

[Stillakid]

Thanks!

Bob, thanks for the help!
Will use, "Instant Krazy Glue Gel" first. There is no clearence for drilling, but I think if need be, the glued wiring will work. I'll let you know:thumbsup:

 

[tjcruiser]

Jim,

I agree that the glued joint will need all of the extra reinforcement that it can get ... as limited by available clearances. Do you have room to add any epoxy fillet to the inside corner of the "U" assembly, in the proximity of the glued crack? As strong an epoxy as possible ... NOT the 5-minute-set stuff.

Do you ever do any fiberglass work? Maybe epoxy on a thin fiberglass mesh cloth to the outside corner, overlapping adjacent sides in way of the crack, too.

If the exposed hole in the last (bottom) photo above is for an assembly mount screw, you need to be careful that inserting and tightening up this screw that last fraction doesn't stress and propogate your glued joint to the point where it cracks open again. That's a dicey location for a screw, given the crack situation. Maybe put the screw in rather loosely, with Locktite there to give it some grab.

TJ

 

[Reckers]

Man, I am impressed with the quality of the suggestions you're getting, Jim. Seriously---this is backyard engineering at it's finest. I love how imaginative all the solutions are. Jim, I don't have anything better to offer, but let me know if I can help in any way.

 

[Stillakid]

Super Glue.....

Worked very well! Using quite a bit of pressure, I couldn't separate the joint. I'm going to try using a thin steel washer, top and bottom, to transfer as much pressure as possible to the body as opposed to the channel itself.

Thanks to all for your help, it's appreciated:thumbsup:

 

[machinejack]

Nice Find:
Old stuff now that's what makes me tick. I drive a 1949 Willys Stationwagon and play with 1930's trains. I enjoy taking a pile of so called junk and making is purr again. After all they aren't making this stuff any more. Try to save every thing that I come across mostly Marx. While every thing may not be put back as factory it will save another treasure from the iron monger.
I am a train runner.
Jack

 

[tjcruiser]

Well said / done, Jack!

And Jim ... nice job on the repair ... AS USUAL!

TJ

 

[Stillakid]

That's what I'm talking about!

Jack, same here. At first, I thought it had to be, "perfect". Found out that it's alot more fun just restoring back to working order, paint(if needed), the way I like it. And just have fun!

Considering what I usually pay for this stuff, trying to restore it to, "collectable quality", I could have just bought it that way:laugh::laugh:

 

[machinejack]

I can make just about any part I might need. You might tell from my moniker that I am a machinist. I built a small 3 axis CNC mill from scratch. I make couplers, and fiber pick up plates that have gotten lost or busted.
I make tab and slot couplers to replace the ones missing. I have even designed one for the Marx 6" tin that had the slack built in so the wind ups could start a whole gang of cars. I moved the shoulder back to just in front of the keeper slot on the car. works great no slack, and won't change the car up. I just keep the old couplers in a box if I want to change back.
Jack

 

[Stillakid]

Some Progress.....

Added 2 washers to the brush plate. Screwed it in. Powered it up with jumpers and she ran:thumbsup: Thanks for the help! Let it run for about 5 minutes at full throttle!!

The engine and tender got a "Bath in The Bag" and although they still look rough, I've seen (and had), worse:laugh:

There's a problem with the reverse unit. Even though I cleaned up all the visible rust, the lever(circled in red), that drives the drum is jointed and there's no way to clean it(or reach it!). I've been using Liquid Wrench to try and work it free. It's better, but still hangs up. I'll give it another couple of days of being worked and wetted to see if it gets better. Really don't want to buy a replacement reverse unit(have 2, but not for this model)

I will also have to replace the 2 sets reverse unit fingers. There are tiny holes in the bends, so small, I almost didn't see them(have those). Will also be replacing the truck studs and washers, toast(have them too!)

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[Stillakid]

Of course, I forgot 2 pics!

The drive unit, cleaned up some and after it was run.
The washers I used, were very thin steel.

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