Model Train Forum banner
61 - 80 of 109 Posts

·
Registered
Ohio Central Systems
Joined
·
1,697 Posts
Whatever you do don't be tempted to "carve" an incline for track. No matter how hard you try, the carved foam will not be "flat." I'm a big fan of Woodland Scenic's foam risers and incline sets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I've tried that in the past, was not good. I'm tempted to try either a jig on my table saw, but I might just go for the woodland scenics foam. I have on planned straight run where I may just incline the foam from one level to another, no carving, just level foam on an angle.
 

·
Registered
Ohio Central Systems
Joined
·
1,697 Posts
I still have concerns over this part of the layout plan. It seems both of these turnouts could be problem areas for you, since the train must "change course" to stay on the main line. imagine a train coming down from the top on the inner main line. The train starts jogging to the right through a turnout, then begins a left-hand turn past the engine repair facility. If you could re-work that area such that a train on the main line only "jogs" by exiting onto a siding/spur. A similar "jogging" happens on the outer main line also.

Slope Font Parallel Rectangle Circle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I still have concerns over this part of the layout plan. It seems both of these turnouts could be problem areas for you, since the train must "change course" to stay on the main line. imagine a train coming down from the top on the inner main line. The train starts jogging to the right through a turnout, then begins a left-hand turn past the engine repair facility. If you could re-work that area such that a train on the main line only "jogs" by exiting onto a siding/spur. A similar "jogging" happens on the outer main line also.

View attachment 588904
Something I'll look at when I get benchwork done and can start laying track and testing. But I did that to get the yard length I wanted and still have enough room on the outside of the track before the wall for buildings and such. I couldn't precisely get the room size drawn up (16 ft 4 in) so I went with a round 17 ft. So I'm losing 2 inches on the north and south side of the layout or 4 on one or the other. I think it should be fine, I'm not planning to run at bullet train speeds.
 

·
Registered
Ohio Central Systems
Joined
·
1,697 Posts
What is your radius for the curves directly below that area? I'd rather tighten up a curve radius (within reason) than have a main-line using a diverging route of a turnout. Or... perhaps you can "flip" those 2 turnouts so the straight paths are part of the main line?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #67 ·
The inner curve is 15 inches and the outer is 16 and change. Those are the double track, superelevated parts from the large loop kit Kato makes. I'll take a look at what else I can do this afternoon, I'll be in front of my computer doing training for work to make up for lack of wrench time this week.

My track from Train World finally shipped today, must have been a good Labor Day sale for them.
 

·
Registered
Ohio Central Systems
Joined
·
1,697 Posts
I see... I don't think Kato makes any tighter curves in their superelevated double track. Give it a try. Perhaps the Kato track is good enough to not worry too much about the turnouts.
I'm sure you are excited to be getting your track soon!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,839 Posts
Maybe use painters tape on the outside ballast areas to hold track in place before permanently securing it, and then test run the ever loving week out of it with every loco & freight cars (and long train lengths too) available?
That may have and probably was your intention, but I’d rather sound preaching to the choir than later say “sorry, I assumed you’d test it.”
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #70 ·
They offer an 11 1/8-12 3/8 radius super elevated. I was trying to build with what I had (tell that to my $300+ order from train world) and for the most part, I am using 13, 15, and 28 inch radii. I do plan to run trains before fully securing everything in place.

Just won't be getting any work done until maybe tomorrow. I get paid at work on quoted labor times, hard to do with little work due to the holiday and parts backorders, so I'm trying to get some of my training done since I get paid for that. Need another 6 hours to not lose out on a reasonable pay check next week. I have hobbies to finance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #71 · (Edited)
Did some playing with my track plan after a trip to the eye doctor with the wife. Commerce, GA has a 4 lane main street split by a single rail line. Wanted to incorporate that somewhere. So this is the change I've made. I'll have some elevation changes to plan/figure out when laying the track, hard to visualize in anyrail even in 3d view.

I don't know how necessary a programming track will be, but I've included one, since I'll have the left over track. It will be situated in the town and when not being used to program, serve as track for a caboose hotel. We were actually talking about that on the country ham's net last saturday. One of the guys was thinking of buying some old cars and a caboose for a house.

Also, how is everyone wiring to their bus for track power? Last layout, I was using terminal blocks and fork connectors. I've seen use of wire taps on some youtube videos. What gauge wire are you guys using on the bus?
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Symmetry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #72 ·
So, I spent a lot of time playing with options on the layout. I ultimately decided to take the wye out as it gave the option for another industry. I also flipped the positions of the coal mine and power plant. The peninsula track work has also been modified. The yard was also shortened by about 9 inches on all legs since the trains I have will be between 15-18 cars with two locos. I'm less pleased with the storage track angle for the new location of the coal mine, but I'll be able to have a cliff face and hide the track going towards the bridge over the river. Programming track will wind up somewhere in the town, need to get a feel for things once my track gets here tomorrow.
Slope Rectangle Font Line Parallel


Here's a shot of the benchwork from the closet which will become my model assembly area after a put a bench up in there. My computer desk can go in the NE corner along the E wall with my racing sim under the peninsula.

Wood Lighting Interior design Floor Flooring


Another thing I discovered, the benchwork in front of me in this picture, along the south wall didn't go as planned. The south wall wound up significantly longer than my wife had originally measured. So hopefully things fit when I put it together over the coming days. Need to get some wire and foam this weekend as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #74 ·
One problem I see.
When you have a train running CCW you can reverse to CW on the loop but
you have no way to turn the train back to CCW.

You can still have the wye just use 2 regular #6 turnouts instead of the the top two wye turnouts.


Magic
I would have to back a CW running train into the reverse loop. Which should be fine. I was using 3 RH #6 turnouts for my wye. I only have one wye turn out. I just got the track I ordered today, I have some sawdust to clean up and then I can see how things fit on the benchwork, what pieces I have left over and maybe I can still have a wye using a LH, RH, and wye.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #75 ·
The part I'm struggling with as I started to place track to figure out base material, is my yard. With the length of trains I'm planning to run, you can't easily get from the inner most to the outer most yard track without fouling the main line. I'll need to redesign the yard so the mainline is one side. I also realized I should have picked up some #4 turnouts for the yard to save space. Either that or I start completely over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Taking a day off of work, unplanned. Got a few hundred yards from the house in my mustang, hear a pop, suddenly no drive. Turns out the bolts on the left axle to the diff, several backed out and the remaining ones snapped. Ford Performance axle is $1200, so no train stuff for me for a while.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Oh my! I have a 2007, what year is yours? Do I have to worry?
2016. You should be fine. The 2015 and newer with independent rear suspension probably encounter this from the design of the half shafts. I got my car used and the previous owner did some mods. The axles being one. But I think it was done the lazy way.

The splined ends of the axle are bolted to the cv joints and axle shaft. I think they just unbolted the stock and put in the Ford performance ones, no loctite and under torqued. Really need to pop the axle loose from the diff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
I would have to back a CW running train into the reverse loop. Which should be fine. I was using 3 RH #6 turnouts for my wye. I only have one wye turn out. I just got the track I ordered today, I have some sawdust to clean up and then I can see how things fit on the benchwork, what pieces I have left over and maybe I can still have a wye using a LH, RH, and wye.
NAY, Nay, NAY! Even the full size RR doesn't like to back up complete trains, and model trains like it even less. That's the whole reason for reverse loops and Wyes. You might make the top of the wye a straight line east-west without the dip and put your industry in the center.
 
61 - 80 of 109 Posts
Top