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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I have the first level mostly laid out. I only need to add a couple of sidings. Right now it is only temporary. I am ready to take it all apart and permanently glue this first level all down. I will then be ready to start laying out the second level. (There will be three levels of track).

Originally I had planned to have all the track in place before I started to do the scenery. After reading few posts here and on other sites I am thinking I should have all the land forms done before I lay the track. Here are a couple of pics I took today. The far end of the layout will be a mountain. The farthest track will be in a tunnel. The next loop will be in a cut in the mountain. There will be ridge across the middle the layout with tunnels and cuts between the two sections. In the middle of the far loop there will be a lake cut into the 3/4" foam that is the base of the layout. The near loop will have the small town / village in it.

Can I wait to do the landforming until all the track is laid or should I do the land forming before I lay the track?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Tankist for your thoughts.

My concern has been that I have so many curves, rises and turnouts I want to be sure it will all work when I am done. If I install all the land contours I may actually run into a situation where I need to undo some of the contours to get the track to work. I also have so many pieces of track that trying to keep track of which piece goes where could be a nightmare. Would it be a good idea to lay it all out and have it running and then disassemble it to create the land form? Perhaps IF I get to a point where I do need to undo or recreate some of the land contour It might only be a small section and would relatively easy to fix or correct for the track to work.

Perhaps now that I have as much as I have done I can label the track and disassemble it. I can then permanently install the land forms and contour them where I need to. Since this first level is probably the most important (the most turnouts) and I know it is working. I can then install all the land contours for this level then add the contours for the next 2 levels and the mountains where they will need to go. At that point I can reinstall the current track and then add on what needs to be added to the top level.

Does anyone else have any ideas that I could consider?
 

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ElSim,

Nice job on the ramped foam risers.

One thought to consider ... given that you'll have track inside a curved, ramped tunnel, how to you plan to access this longterm? If it was my doing, I'd try to make a section of the hilltop removable in some way so that you could access the track and cars. If so, this might facilitate the sequence in which you build hills / lay track, etc.

TJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is why I like sites like this! I learn and hopefully I can help others too. I had already planned to make the tops of the hills and mountains removeable. Just imagine a derailment in the middle of the tunnel. This is N scale. I am not sure my newest granddaughter could reach in and grab the train!

I am leary of prototyping too much at one time. That is why I threw out the idea of taking what I have now that does run and making it more permanent. The train has been making loops around the board for about an hour at different speeds and I am pleased with it so far. Once this first level is secured and looking like real terrain I will prototype the next level. The first level does not have any trestles...yet. Any that I add will be short to span a potential river outlet from the lake. I can add this later.

Perhaps with the first level tested I should just bite the bullet and start installing the rest of the terrain and make it work. I need to do some more research on what materials to use to do the contours. I also need to find a good source for trestle material and templates. I have seen a few and just need to bite the bullet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay, I am back at it. Per another post I made I enlarged my layout from 3' x 7' to a full 4' x 8'. WOW!!! What a difference the added 1' in width and length makes.
Status:
1 - I have most of the main parts of the layout. Most of this was done with foam saved from my first attempt. Another good reason to only use pins to hold pieces down until you know how you want it.
2 - I have purchased some raw lumber to build my trestles. These are still in design mode.

I plan on taking some pictures tonight and will post them.

Here are a few questions I have:
1. Last week we were backpacking in Yosemite and camping in the valley. For those who have been there you know there are tunnels and bridges. The face of the tunnel openings is made from cut native granite as are the sides of the bridges. I have taken pictures of these as I would like to incorporate this style on my layout. How do I do this? I am trying to copy both the texture and depth of the granite. I am only running N scale so I do not have a lot of room to work with.

2. I took damp paper towels and draped them over the foam risers to see how this would look and form to the foam. After they dried I checked on them to see how they were. They kept, for the most part, the form of the foam. My concern is when I use plaster of paris to actually create the land form will the paper towels stick to the foam? I do not want things to flake off now or later. Is plaster of paris the best thing to use?
 

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Here are a few questions I have:
1. Last week we were backpacking in Yosemite and camping in the valley. For those who have been there you know there are tunnels and bridges. The face of the tunnel openings is made from cut native granite as are the sides of the bridges. I have taken pictures of these as I would like to incorporate this style on my layout. How do I do this? I am trying to copy both the texture and depth of the granite. I am only running N scale so I do not have a lot of room to work with.


Do you have pictures of them?
I never been there.:D
 

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Not here at work. I will post them when I post what I have done tonight.
OK, no hurry.
I enjoy looking at where others have been.
Especially if I have never been there. :D

They do sell molds for rock formations. I don't know if they would be good for what you want to do.:confused:


Now, GET BACK TO WORK!:laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here is the layout as it stands. The next post will show the tunnels and bridges.

The last picture shows a solid block of foam which is only taking the place of the eventual lengthy trestle.

I can get the the link to show up in the post but how do I get the actual picture to show up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here is the pictures of the tunnels and bridges. There were 3 tunnels we took pictures of but only one bridge I have several views of the bridge but only one of each of the tunnels.
 

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ElSimon,

Nice job on the handmade curved risers. What tool were you using to cut the notches?

Those Yosemite tunnel portals are quite beautiful. That said, the cut stone faces are reasonably flush, with tight mortar joints. If you wanted to model that look (even in N), I think you might be able to carve most of that contouring into foam itself (Dremel, etc.), then add a bit of texture (if needed) with plaster or caulk. A multitoned (greyish, of course) paint job would blend things in, but also bring out textured highllghts.

Just a thought ...

Cheers,

TJ
 

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Oh ... forgot to answer your question about imbedding photos ...

After you've attached a photo (which you have), click on the icon to view the photo in it's own window. Highlight and Ctrl-C copy the full URL path at the top of your web browser. Next, click on the little "mountain" icon here in the forum editor ... you might need to "go advanced" to see that option. That'll pop up a little dialog box where you Ctrl-V paste the URL address of the photo. Click OK, and the photo should now be imbedded directly into the post.

TJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If my memory serves me right the tunnels were built during the depression by the CCC. Back when there were craftsmen who cared about the job. It was important to them to maintain the integrity of the landscaping.

What I have been thinking about is to continue to build the terrain and then add a "face" to the front of the tunnels with the rock look. I have been looking for something that is 1/8"-1/4" thick to mold / cut / carve / shape / etc. into the form I want. It will also allow me to paint and texture it away from the actual site and I should have the room to paint it without overspray. Does anyone have ideas of what I could use in that thickness?

For the risers I took 1" and 2" thick foam and built a jig for my table saw which lets me cut the grade. Then I bought a hot knife from Harbour Frieght and depending on how tight I need the curve I cut the slots close or farther apart (usually 1.5-2"). I cut the depth just by eyeballing it. I have thought of building a jig that will evenly space the slots and limit the depth too....time.

Any thoughts on my question no. 2 (post #7)?

I am hoping that if we don't go camping this weekend (state holiday Friday we may leave on Thursday) I might be able to get started glueing foam together!

Almost getting giddy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I really like the look of the larger rock. It doesn't look "fabricated". It is also how moct tunnels out here in the West were made (that I have noticed). New tunnels were made casting concrete though.

I will just have to try some things and see what I can come up with.

Thanks for the comments.
 

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ElSimon,

Thanks for the riser construction description ... nice work.

Re: your prior question about plaster coverings... I have no direct experience there, but I know that Woodland Scenics makes a plaster-impregnated cloth specifically for that purpose ... item # 785-1203 on the Walthers website.

They (WS) also make "Mold-A-Scene Plaster" that "can be shaped without a mold like modeling clay. It's longer setting time allows modelers to add terrain contours ..." ... might work for your tunnel portal ... item # 785-1202

(Again, no recommendations here on my part ... I've never used the above.)

I do have experience with boxwood, used commonly in the model ship world to carve intricate parts. If you can get your hands on some small planks, the stuff carves beautifully, allowing nice detailing.

TJ
 
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