[SFC Diesel]

what are the do's and don'ts,

I don't want to use the quick connect stuff that came in the set, and I was at hobby lobby the other night and noticed the bendable stuff.

Is the bendable all there is, or do you actually build track from scratch like laying ties out and then laying rails.

again, have no clue about anything train related, real or model.

thanks guys.

 

[tankist]

i use flextrack as much as i can.tacked and glued to cork roadbed. the joints are almost all soldered, besides the isolating plastic joiners.

the club i visited hand lays their stuff (just as you said - ties and then rails)

 

[SFC Diesel]

i use flextrack as much as i can.tacked and glued to cork roadbed. the joints are almost all soldered, besides the isolating plastic joiners.

the club i visited hand lays their stuff (just as you said - ties and then rails)

What is this cork roadbed you speak of, old wise one:worshippy:

I wish I could just come see you guys in action, it would make life easier.

 

[tankist]

what is cork roadbed? here is the action i'm quite good at :
Linky

 

[Reckers]

what is cork roadbed? here is the action i'm quite good at :
Linky

*ROTFLMAO!!!!* :laugh::laugh::laugh:

 

[Reckers]

Diesel, it's just cork---it elevates your track above ground-level and also absorbs vibration, making your trains run more quietly. Depending upon what you want to spend, it can be formed with angled sides to resemble the roadbed built up under real RR tracks, or it can be just sheet-cork you cut and modify as you see fit. Usually, people choose between just attaching the track directly to your ground surface (foam sheet, painted wood, etc.) or creating a more realistic, raised surface. Older stuff like my AF had molded rubber. Use what you see fit. if you're going the cork route, you might look at rolls of cork plumbers use to wrap pipe.

 

[SFC Diesel]

what is cork roadbed? here is the action i'm quite good at :
Linky

nice, real nice haha:laugh: that is why you are the man, well at least its a tie between you and Reckers.

I was getting into it as well, I clicked that link thinkin it was going to be Tankist video tapping himself working. I was like this should be cool. haha

I deserved that, i do that to my wife all the time when she asks me a ton of questions. :thumbsup:

 

[tankist]

srry, i can't help it , i really love lmgtfy,

but as far as purpose - IMO first and foremost noise reduction. in addition, if you going to use foam as your base you can't tack flex sections down, the foam just doesn't hold those little nails very good, cork (glued to foam) however does.

 

[Reckers]

Diesel, where layout construction, computers, and electronics are concerned, Tankist is quietly and humbly brilliant. And by the way, I followed the link to see his video, too. *L*

 

[matt]

What is this cork roadbed you speak of, old wise one:worshippy:

I wish I could just come see you guys in action, it would make life easier.

amen to that! I had been thinking that thought since I joined this forum. I would love to see some of these guys in action. There are a lot of members here that are very knowlegable & willing to share their knowlege with us greenhorns.

 

[tankist]

there is not much to laying flex track on cork roadbed.
mark centerline with pen/marker. tie a string to it to make large radius's . mark any easements that you doing with more radius. spread adhesive caulk (ie dap...) lay down cork in halfs along the centerline, it will grab fast, yet will be somewhat adjustable. put weights (cork is springy in curves), let it dry for couple hours and repeat with other half. the joint will mark the centerline and tacking down flex sections is no brainer. before putting rail it is a good time to paint your roadbed grey if you so want.

it is arguable where the sliding rail goes, some do on the inside , some on the outside. it is not possible to curve the very end of the flex so plan on last inch or 2 being streight. when joining flex to to ordinary section i stager the joins, meaning make the rails different length (easi since one for the rails) , cutting the rail but not the plastic tie grid. then the i slide the extra length into the plastic. i solder and polish all my joins.

flex rail on the left, rigid section on the right. line marks where the tie grid of rigid section ends (since then i resoldered the joins for cleaner performance) so the flex conforms to section shape exactly and transition is seamless.

 

[tjcruiser]

I've found that a few dabs of hot glue (via hot glue gun) help to hold each half of the corkbed nicely in place when laying it around a radius. I still use a separate (more durable) adhesive ... but the hot glue grabs pretty quickly, with no need for weights to hold it in place. Dab glue, bend, stick ... and then move right along to the mating (other half) piece.

 

[SFC Diesel]

More Dumb Questions

Ok what is the difference in the numbers like 83, and 100 and so on and is 36 in of 83 stlye flex track a good price for 5 bucks,

 

[tankist]

its the rail code, basically how high the rail profile. code 100 represents the heaviest rail. it also provides full backwards compatibility for old trains. its arguably the cheapest. ties are black

code 83 is more prototypical and provides smooth running for both modern NMRA pr25 profile wheels and NEM profile (1.0-1.2mm of flange) European trains. looks better. ties are brown. old equipment barely runs and jumps on switches.

code 75, looks even better IMO but nothing other then new NMRA standard wheel sets will run on it

4.5-5$ per 3ft section is about the average price. concrete tie flex sections are more. look for used stuff for better price (was 1$ a piece at my LHS). also "looks better"is obviously subjective matter. my opinion in this case

 

[mkschram]

I followed his "Linky" too. Very nice Tankist. Seriously though, here is a site that I found to be quite invaluable for info on what you need to know. http://www.building-your-model-railroad.com/

 

[tankist]

yep, i have it bookmarked