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Eh at the size of a dime and on the plastic tree, I guess I could easily do them

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Aqualungs;
I don't know if you're kidding, or serious.
In case you mean to try painting your own, get an unpainted set of 100 from Preiser their detail is fantastic, though my poor photography doesn't show it well, since I couldn't get any closer and still focus.
First, airbrush all of them a very thin layer of light grey primer. Then pick a color, and brush thinned paint lightly onto each spot you want to be that color. Do all the blues, then let things dry overnight. Next day do all the reds, etc.

Yes, do leave the figures on the parts trees. That makes them a whole lot easier to handle. After the completely painted figures have dried several days, spray on a clear matte finish and let that dry overnight. Keep this matte finish very light.

Finally make a black wash with some paint, or ink, that is chemically different, and chemically milder than the paint on the figures. For example, I use Tamiya paint, which is alcohol-based. For my final wash I use water-based craft paint thinned way down with lots of water and very little paint. The water-based paint won't attack the alcohol-based paint. That's what I mean by "chemically milder."

Small, very small, good quality artist's brushes are recommended. All the paints used should be flat colors, and thinned to the point that they will sort of drool onto the figures, and flow along the molded-in details.
An optivisor, and plenty of light, are also highly recommended.

These little N-scale guys, & gals, are well,-----little! Like really, really little! o_O
However, a well painted figure or two, or a bunch, add a lot to any scene.
Work in short sessions and take your time, or you'll go ga ga pretty quickly.

Good Luck & Have Fun;

Traction Fan 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
When I paint parts of buildings, model cars, and such I generally leave it / them on the trees, then where they attach trim it down and touch-up. Some out there are talented enough to even have faces on their "little people", me, not so much and as long as I can get them already painted that's how I'll populate my layout(s)
 

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Discussion Starter · #204 ·
I got the last building in the other day, built and painted as well as wired for lights, retail space on ground floor with 4 apartments above. I also have wired up all the buildings / houses (even the schoolhouse) ready to drop in place and hook up. Oh and I blacked out the insides of those I could get to so the light wouldn't shine through the walls
558955
 

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I got the last building in the other day, built and painted as well as wired for lights, retail space on ground floor with 4 apartments above. I also have wired up all the buildings / houses (even the schoolhouse) ready to drop in place and hook up. Oh and I blacked out the insides of those I could get to so the light wouldn't shine through the walls
View attachment 558955
WCB;

Very nice job on the painting. (y) Looking forward to see them all in place and lit up for a great night scene.

regards;

Traction Fan 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #206 · (Edited)
Thanks TF. Note the brick sidewalk going around the building. On two others I've also had an OCD moment and have fitted the sidewalk to and between the buildings, the right side of what's pictured needs a trim after the glue dries. Still have to apply the grey wash to the brick
558978


Oh and some of the multi-floor buildings will have separate light switches, retail closed and someone home upstairs
 

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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
Thanks AQ, I had to take a break yesterday and go on my annual murder spree out in the yard. I can't stand to see my yard full of yellow flowers (I take a little pride in my no hassle castle), next project I'll be watching and not actively participating, new roof.

I can't wait to see my layout lit up again, all the building and wiring will pay off soon enough
 

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Thanks TF. Note the brick sidewalk going around the building. On two others I've also had an OCD moment and have fitted the sidewalk to and between the buildings, the right side of what's pictured needs a trim after the glue dries. Still have to apply the grey wash to the brick
View attachment 558978

Oh and some of the multi-floor buildings will have separate light switches, retail closed and someone home upstairs
WCB;

I've had good luck using patching plaster for brick grout. I use the pre-mixed plaster in a 1 Qt. plastic tub from Home Depot. I just spread it onto the plastic "bricks" and let it dry overnight. It can be weathered, if desired, by spraying a little dilute ink on it. The brick Mansion,. and retaining wall in the photo were done this way.

More recently, I've been working on my seven story Sears building. This is a flat, based on photos of the Sears Roebuck mail order warehouse & office building that once stood in Seattle. There are 99 windows in the main building, and 9 more in the annex, for a total of 108 windows! The reason I'm harping on the window count is that I had to modify HO-scale window castings to make N-scale representations of the type of windows the real building had. Then all those window frames got hand painted since I had "cleverly" glued them in place before airbrushing the building a brick red color. Actually, since the white paint of the window frames absorbed some of the brick red color, I had to do a second coat of white, 99 times, in N-scale!

I found a fantastic way to produce an excellent brick color when I added the "mortar" between the bricks. I drooled a very thin wash of white paint onto the painted brick wall with an eye dropper slid along touching the wall surface, and It ran into the crevices between bricks pretty well. There was some excess white though, and it looked like the building was more white than red. I sanded the brick surface very lightly with fine grit sandpaper. This removed any white from the surface of the bricks, but left the crevices between them white.

An unexpected bonus of the sanding was that the red plastic, Holgate-Reynolds, brick sheet I had used on this scratchbuilt structure, turned a perfect "worn brick color" when sanded. I later used the same technique on two brick tenement buildings. This time I made smarter paint choices though. The Tamiya model paint I use is alcohol-based. I used this for the red brick, but instead of using Tamiya white for mortar, I used very dilute white craft paint which is water-based. The water-based paint did not try to remove, or blend with, the dried alcohol-based brick color. This meant no second coat, or pink widow frames. I'll take photos of the completed Sears building and post them, but don't hold your breath! LOL 😄

regards;

Traction Fan 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #210 · (Edited)
WCB;

I've had good luck using patching plaster for brick grout. I use the pre-mixed plaster in a 1 Qt. plastic tub from Home Depot. I just spread it onto the plastic "bricks" and let it dry overnight. It can be weathered, if desired, by spraying a little dilute ink on it. The brick Mansion,. and retaining wall in the photo were done this way.

I found a fantastic way to produce an excellent brick color when I added the "mortar" between the bricks. I drooled a very thin wash of white paint onto the painted brick wall with an eye dropper slid along touching the wall surface, and It ran into the crevices between bricks pretty well. There was some excess white though, and it looked like the building was more white than red. I sanded the brick surface very lightly with fine grit sandpaper. This removed any white from the surface of the bricks, but left the crevices between them white.

regards;

Traction Fan 🙂
Oh that is so much work to do. What I've been doing (since the first brick building) was to "paint" the brick walls or whatever with either white or a dark grey acrylic paint (small sections) and before it has a chance to dry, lightly wipe off the excess paint leaving the joints colored in. In the picture the sidewalk on the left has been "painted" while the right has not. Also the Police building on the far right was the first example I did and since that method worked quite well I've continued to do that. The other buildings I've just painted them a color and they look somewhat weathered but most importantly the lose their plastic look. The Diner, 2nd on left, was a used building I bought that came weathered and I left it alone except for adding the interior and lights

Oh, the buildings are just sitting there at the time the pic was taken, final placement is going to be different
559006
 

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Discussion Starter · #211 ·
Waiting on more wire to do the street lights, 28 gauge. I took the train station apart and did a repaint on it as well as added lights to it and a warehouse building (no pic of it)
Before street side
559283

After track side
559284
 

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Waiting on more wire to do the street lights, 28 gauge. I took the train station apart and did a repaint on it as well as added lights to it and a warehouse building (no pic of it)
Before street side
View attachment 559283
After track side
View attachment 559284
WCB;

Your station originally looked very foreign. Your paint job helps a lot.
If, and only if, you want to "Americanize" it further, I suggest replacing the chimneys, or at least trimming off the lower sill on each chimney. In fact, most American stations that small would only have one chimney. European structures seem to go in for multiple chimneys. Maybe its because so many of them predate central heating.

The clock could also be "domesticated." That style, where the clock looks like a giant pocket watch, suspended from a hook on the pole, is oddly European. I would cut the clock off, trim away the two rings and hook, and then glue the clock onto the top of the pole.

The wood platform looks OK as is, but scrapping a razor saw along the length of the planks to form wood grain, and then repainting it in a flat brown wood color, will make it look better.

Likewise, the benches, two-wheel hand truck, and 4-wheel luggage wagon are all OK, but there are much better looking ones available from Preiser.

I can't see the actual blades of the semaphore in the photo, but I suspect they are likely of European type also.

Doing any of this stuff depends on whether you want to make a real showpiece out of your station, or simply leave it as is.
All my criticism is intended as constructive, and all improvements are your option, of course. I'm just passing on some ideas for you to consider.

regards;

Traction Fan 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #213 ·
All the stuff that would have to be pulled up (and likely broken) I'll leave the decking with the dark grey it is. I repainted the building due to it being as dark as I painted it initially was too dark. The clock and the semaphore came with the kit and not knowing the origins I just installed them where the indructions said to (too bad that they don't work for real) Was just now thinking that IF I'm real careful I could build a completely new / different deck with the tile type styrene sheets I have here or even the rock sheets (different than the brick) I have the time to "play" with this
 

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All the stuff that would have to be pulled up (and likely broken) I'll leave the decking with the dark grey it is. I repainted the building due to it being as dark as I painted it initially was too dark. The clock and the semaphore came with the kit and not knowing the origins I just installed them where the indructions said to (too bad that they don't work for real) Was just now thinking that IF I'm real careful I could build a completely new / different deck with the tile type styrene sheets I have here or even the rock sheets (different than the brick) I have the time to "play" with this
WCB;

Whatever you want to do.
Nearly all small, old time, depots had wood plank platforms. A few had brick, and modern ones are concrete.
A stone platform would be quite odd in North America but more common in Europe.
A working train order semaphore in N-scale is possible, though not easy, to scratchbuild. I made the one in the photo, and it does work, but it was a considerable challenge to build.
A working N-scale clock? Not yet! o_O

regards;

Traction Fan
 

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Discussion Starter · #215 ·
I've got one pack of the 3VDC street lights (10) wired with longer pigtails on them, I have the resistors that will be wired in close to the switches. The house and building lights have the resistors built in and will have separate power bugs for them. The 3.5VDC bug will be for the street lights in town, my calculations are 12 max on it. I also bought a different switch box, similar to the one I had already, but this one has an added panel I can mount the light switches to and keep the turnout switches laid out as they now are

I've been on the lookout for industrial type buildings and found two that are on the way here, both are, from my understanding, discontinued. A Bakery and a Foundry. I believe I have enough residentials for now. I'm not going for any particular "look" or and specific area of the world with this layout, if it ends up looking a bit realistic then that's a plus, if not then as long as the trains run and don't have a Gomez Addams train wreck then I'm doing good. All in all I'm just a big kid at heart (the difference between men and boys is the price of their toys) and since I'm retired . . . . . . . . My other project I had to stop because of health concerns so maybe in a couple of years I'll buy a running boat to go fishing and boat riding while still running my trains
 

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I've got one pack of the 3VDC street lights (10) wired with longer pigtails on them, I have the resistors that will be wired in close to the switches. The house and building lights have the resistors built in and will have separate power bugs for them. The 3.5VDC bug will be for the street lights in town, my calculations are 12 max on it. I also bought a different switch box, similar to the one I had already, but this one has an added panel I can mount the light switches to and keep the turnout switches laid out as they now are

I've been on the lookout for industrial type buildings and found two that are on the way here, both are, from my understanding, discontinued. A Bakery and a Foundry. I believe I have enough residentials for now. I'm not going for any particular "look" or and specific area of the world with this layout, if it ends up looking a bit realistic then that's a plus, if not then as long as the trains run and don't have a Gomez Addams train wreck then I'm doing good. All in all I'm just a big kid at heart (the difference between men and boys is the price of their toys) and since I'm retired . . . . . . . . My other project I had to stop because of health concerns so maybe in a couple of years I'll buy a running boat to go fishing and boat riding while still running my trains
TCB;

You might look around for a deal on a used "steady cam" camera mount like the movie companies use. Using that, you should be able to mount a small Z-scale layout on a boat. The steady cam will compensate for any rocking of the boat and hold your little layout level. That way you can fish and watch trains run at the same time! Geezer nirvana! 😄

Design Preservation Models (now absorbed into Woodland Scenics) has lots of industrial structure kits. Factories, warehouses, etc. All brick, generic American prototypes, and easy to build. They are even reasonably inexpensive, (though less so since Woodland Scenics got their paws on them.) You might check them out.

BTW I had an interesting experience yesterday. Another member, dboone, had a zoom conference with me about his layout. He has some videos out about his track planning and will incorporate some of my "wisdom" (such as it is :rolleyes: ) ,in his next video. I know video conferencing technology has been around for years, but being firmly set among the "digitally challenged", (aka dumb) this was my first time using it. Fun stuff. 😊

regards;

Traction Fan 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #217 · (Edited)
The boat (more of an empty hull right now) I have is a 19 footer V-hull that I was in the process of rebuilding but as I said some health issues have stopped that. My SO loves and has owned pontoons in the past and yes they make fine fishing platforms (and with the flat floor you COULD mount a train, but why ?) I lean more towards V-hulls for the fun of wave / wake hopping. Will likely sell what I have and buy one in better shape and already running

I've been scouting various sites for the fare they have available and that's how I found the two. There are a few other possibles I saw (in no big hurry to get) to fill up any empty spaces on my table without busting the budget
 

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Discussion Starter · #218 ·
Busy, busy, busy here the last few daze, new roof scheduled for tomorrow AM, been working on the new switch panel. It's now mounted to the table and partially wired and now it's time for a BIG old home-made drink LOL

Wooky's No Hassle Castle
559474

New switch panel, upper is the turnout wiring, lower will be lighting
559475

Smaller panel will be at the bottom with larger standing up
559476



Buy me a drink, sing me a song, take me as I come cause I won't be standin' long
559477


And yeah I gotta paint some more green there 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #219 ·
Roof is done and I got a bit sun burnt, a settin' outside watchin' the goin's on up top. Have ya ever had a bunch of folks up on yer house beatin' the crap outta it ALL DAY LONG (had to medicate 2 of the pups here)

Don't THAT look so much better ?
559560


Back to the wiring today, should have some buildings lit up tomorrow
 

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I am, and have always been, an handyman DIY'er. But the one thing that I have learned now in these later years in my life is that sitting in a chair with a cold beer, watching a pro do the work definitely has it's merits. Your roof looks great!
 
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