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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter #1
This is about checking an engine to get it running. I purchased two today one without a shell Package deal. Both old and dirty. Engine one ran an inch. Two was quiet. Both are running now. I took pictures and will describe how I administered life support. I cleaned the motor and e unit. A fun time.

 

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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Shell

The shell came off with one screw and I washed it with liquid soap and a plastic nail brush easy on the lettering. I had some oil spots on the inside and cleaned them with a Q tip and paint thinner. Both frames have rust spots so I will clean them up with a wire brush and dremel wheel and sandpaper. Then I will prime and paint.


IMG_1041.JPG

engine two shown. The e unit s to the right. You can see the windings and the arm. I removed the backside to the motor and cleaned the gear and area with thinner. used Lithium grease for lubricant. I then cleaned the wheels of rust and cleaned hte center rollers. THe wheels spun easily for cleaning with the gear removed. Wire wheel on the dremel did the trick ,a little 400 grit sandpaper helped too. The gear was put back on.


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A good underside picture. The left coupler is missing. The right is there.


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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The frame came off with one special nut . With a 5/16 nut driver I removed the brushplate.


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And saw this: dirt and the armature.

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The whole armature came out making it easy to clean the surface
One side is original, one cleaned with and eraser and one cleaned with sandpaper.
yes the divit had to go, more sandpaper.


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Q tip and thinner was used to remove the scum from the brushplate and motor area.
The top of the armature has the contact for the three windings. The copper surface (commutator)has grooves caused by the contact brushes. An eraser will clean it up but to get the grooves fine sandpaper 400 grit will do the trick.
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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
The e unit can be the trickiest. This is engine 2. One screw on the side and you can remove it. At this time I look inside the motor at the axles and remove any built up lint. This picture shows the drum contact. six fingers touch this to reverse the motor. I used the Q tip with thinner to clean and used a pencil eraser to clean up the copper. I had black spots so I had to make sure I removed it all. The fingers were staight and I left them alone. Use the metal claw to rotate the drum for cleaning.



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Ths is engine one. Still dirty it worked.

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A simple cleaning and both engines worked. Engine one has an issue with the e unit lever more on that later.
The frames need painting too. Hope you enjoyed this I did.:)
 

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Yard Master & Research
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10,635 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The prototype was made by GE and the car pulled ore cars in Chile.
The car didn't come lighted.

Painted today. Sanded rust and used the Q tip and thinner to clean it.


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I went with a satin black and aluminum. Heat gun helps in this weather.:D

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The rust spots showed on the aluminum. Black hides well.
 

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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The engines are done for now. I need some parts. They both operate fine.



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This is by no means a closed thread. Comments please. I covered a few recovery tips here.Some apply to motors in general. To date I have not been disappointed in purchasing used Lionel. I enjoy the repairing.
 

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I found this thread searching for a pantograph for mine. :D I think I may add lights to mine, I think I can sneak them into the shell. Even cooler would be directional lights...

Mine is actually in pretty good condition, no significant rust and all the parts are there. I just wonder if I should be modifying the shell of this one, it's in great shape with no cracks anywhere, even the problem screw hole.

 

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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
The prototype was made by GE and the engine pulled ore cars in Chile.
The car didn't come lighted. Directional lights with AC . My repro pantograh keeps popping off.

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John, yours looks to be in great shape. I find it a fun little engine.
It would of been a good candidate for bluing.

So TJ, is it a prototype. One may have been in service in NY on the docks.




The information was supplied buy D. Smith of CTT Forum
 

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Well, bluing would require me to strip the chassis. It does have some slight rust in places, so it would be useful to refinish it. Since it's now blued, that would be the best option.

My repro pantograph stays on fine, maybe you need a new one. The Train Tender has them for $6.
 

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Hey all,
Sorry to barge in on your thread, but it's the best 520 thread I found.
I inherited a 520 set from a close friend; he got it new as a kid.
I have the complete circle set including transformer. Does anyone know about the set? Was it a Christmas special at the time?
It only has a Lionel coal car, Baby Ruth boxcar and a Lionel caboose.

My plan is to re-build the engine...it does still run as-is.
Thanks for the tip on where to purchase the replacement pantograph.
I still have a piece of the original.

Thanks
Rich
 

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Railroad Tycoon
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Well, bluing would require me to strip the chassis. It does have some slight rust in places, so it would be useful to refinish it. Since it's now blued, that would be the best option.

My repro pantograph stays on fine, maybe you need a new one. The Train Tender has them for $6.
$6.50 now John.

Hey all,
Sorry to barge in on your thread, but it's the best 520 thread I found.
I inherited a 520 set from a close friend; he got it new as a kid.
I have the complete circle set including transformer. Does anyone know about the set? Was it a Christmas special at the time?
It only has a Lionel coal car, Baby Ruth boxcar and a Lionel caboose.

My plan is to re-build the engine...it does still run as-is.
Thanks for the tip on where to purchase the replacement pantograph.
I still have a piece of the original.

Thanks
Rich
You have the link?

Traintender,
http://www.ttender.com/partslist.html
 

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Big Ed,
I pulled up the Train Tender website, but finding my way around
the Lionel numbering will take some time. If you've got a direct link, that would be great.
I need a few other pieces (body screws, bolster pins, etc)
I'd also like to replace some broken coupler pieces.
Any help would be appreciated.
I am an N-scaler typically....this O scale activity is just for fun.
Rich
 
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